I have been searching for the info on this one but cant seem to find it.

I have a Gen 7 That Came with a 6A box and I have a 6AL already in the car from when it was carb'd

How do I hook this thing up. Will I still have a rev limiter if I use the 6A and will things be redundant if I use my 6AL with the 3 step box I have wired already?

Do I hook up BOTH the coil wires from the 6AL and the Gen 7 harness or eliminate one set? If so which ones?

Thanks Guys I SUCK at wiring so this should be a total nightmare for me.
I dont want to FRY anything by making a stupid newbie mistake.

 

I also have a connector I cant figure out.

It looks alot like the Ignition connector but has Red/blk Red/BLk dark blue pink and a gray I believe its a 8 Pin connector just after the grommet into the engine bay.

Its not on this wiring diagram http://www.accel-dfi.com/pdf/GEN7_WiringDiagram.pdf

 

It is in that diagram, and it is the ignition connector. Follow that and it will work. Hook up cam and crank sensors, blue wire to white points input on 6AL, pink wire to small red power lead on 6AL and you're done. Don't use any rev limiting functions in the 6AL, just use the stuff in the Gen 7.

 

The ignition coonector Is already hooked up and it has the clear (unshielded wires)

This is the same basically but with red/blk red/BLk gray drak blue white pink basically exactly the same as the Ignition but with red where the CLR wires are?

 

Thanks for clarification on the pink to red and blue to white on the 6 al Much appreciated. how about the coil wires?

 

figured the 8 pin out its the wide band option I guess they still supply the narrow band connector.

I know this ones gonna be a total retard question but whats the ECT?

I have three two pin connectors one is the IAC I have that one but I have two left (1) gray/tan and (1) green and tan not sure where these two go?

 

Engine coolant temp sensor I got it. I knew it was a reatard question.LOL

And thats not giving retarded people enough credit.

 

Still cant figure out the green and tan 2 pin connector though.

Gonna head back out there and work on getting it finished up and running today.

Will be on a N/A tune for starters since theres a Job Spetter N/A tune already set up.

figured Id get up and running on that with athe BOV disconnected and then work on a bosted tune after I get it all sorted out that way.

 

OK I am totally lost.

I have it all hooked up with the exception of the manifold surface temp. Dont have the sender and have been told I didnt need it to fire up.

I have the Main Power wire to the batt +
main Neg wire to the batt -
The pink wire to the small red on the MSD 6AL
Blue wire to the white wire on the 6al
Orange coil wire(6al) to positive on the coil
Black coil wire(6al) to neg on the coil

Distributor Hooks up to the harness through a box connected to the DFI harness with a 77 number But Its burried in the firewall so I dont have that full number pretty simplet hook up though.



I have no power at the fuel Wire on the gen 7 and The motor wont fire?

What am I missing?

 

Are you using the relay that came with the harness? If so, there should always be power on pin 87 at the relay. That ties into the main DFI power feed with an in-line fuse. Pin 86 also goes back to the main DFI ground. When you turn the key it should energize the relay for whatever your prime setting is at. Then once it sees a cam/crank signal it will command it to turn.

 

Ill check that. I cant even hook into the computer to see whats going on because my new computer doesnt have a serial port.

So I am counting on the previous tune to get me up and running.
I left my BOV off so I can start it and run the engine for break in.

I also have 40 PSI fuel pressure is this gonna be OK or should I make it higher.

Just to clarify I dont have my fuel pump hooked up to the gen 7 yet I have it hrad wired to a switch and relay still.
I have test light on the fuel wire and have no power there.

 

Ok checked both relays Not sure which is which but one has power at two poles in the harness and the other only has power at the top pole?

Theres also no power going to the coil?

Ok I pulled the white wire and grounded it to test the 6AL and I get power both at the pos terminal of the coil and also from the main coil wire. So this tells me I have no signal at the Gen & dfi But why dont I have a signal?
Any Ideas guys?
Could that missing sensor (MST) be causing this?

 

Do you have switched power going to these two wires, ignition on?

 

Yes I do have switched power to the Pink and small red of the 6AL It has 12.6 volts at rest key on and drops to 10 volts during cranking.

I also tried running a straight wire (jumper) from the bat just to test still nothing

My red light in the distributor is also DIM. And the blue light comes up temporarily when I turn the main power on and will pulse if I spin the motor imediately but it fades out within 2 sceonds of seeing power and never comes back on?

I am lost on this one.

 

heres one possibility I have found
Make sure to
connect the switched +12 volt wire (long pink wire), to a switched ignition accessory
in the fuse box. The switched ignition accessory must maintain a constant ignition
voltage while cranking, if it does not, the vehicle will not start. Some older vehicles
(pre '75) do not have a constant (12V) switched ignition voltage supply while
cranking. This can be verified with a test light or voltmeter. If your switched ignition
voltage is not a constant 12V, ACCEL suggests that you run a jumper wire from the
starter solenoid start circuit to your power input to the ECM.

 

this is more likely what I feel is causing the issue I guess we'll find out tomorrow.

STI Alarm Input Functionality
The function of the Self-Test Input has been changed. It can now be used as a
programmable alarm input that generates error code 73 when a ground is applied. Fuel
delivery and EST signals can optionally be shut off when this input becomes active, after a
programmable delay time of 0-16 seconds. The most commonly used triggers are Fuel
and Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, and Brake Pressure. The Malfunction Indicator
Lamp output behavior is also changed. If engine RPM > 0, and an error code is
generated, the MIL output will be activated constantly, as before. However, when engine
RPM = 0, the MIL output now flashes error codes as if the STI input were activated.
CalMap Location: CTRL-C Shortcut Keys, or Configuration Menu -> Controls

 

Well it wasnt anything with the distributor or the SKI Alarm.

After Being told by everyone that it was plug and play and that there were no redundant connectors that you could plug in other areas I can tell you there are.

At least in the add on harness.

the wide band o2 add on harness and the Distributor add on harness have exactly the same connector.

When I finally was able to get in with my computer (long storyLOL) I found that when I twisted the distributor It would show a change in AFR.LOL

Obviously this prompted me to check the O2 harness and the distributor harness and thats when I found the connectors were the same and connectoed wrong.

After changing them the red light was now Nice and bright and the cam sesor light worked properly.

I havent started the car yet but I am sure that cured the problem.

 

Udate the car is up and running very well. needs some work on the Idle in gear and the cold Idle.

I also need to know how to set up the 2 step on the Gen 7 DFI or should I just use my old 2 step from the 6AL set up.

 

The DFI 2-step is easy to configure. Tie the lead (yellow w/ green tracer) into your transbrake (switched +12V) and set your desired rpm in the controls config.

-Chris

 

Thanks Chris,

The info is appreciated. I will try and get that set up before I go to Etown this weekend.

I very rarely use the trans brake because I like the footbrake classses but its nice to have it set up in the event I decide to make some TB runs.