I have a really dumb question about adjustable rockers. I am going to be running a 1.6 adujustable rocker on my heads. When I install these rockers on the studs should it be seated flat at the bottom of the stud or should there be a gap between the bottom of the rocker and the stud? This is with the push rods installed. Also another dumb noobie question.... how do you adjust these rockers? Feel free to flame me all you want I deserve it. I am in the middle of figuring out what pushrod length to use and I want to make sure that I am not forgetting anything with the rockers. So any help here with how to figure out pushrod length with adjustable rockers would be GREATLY AND EXTREMELY appreciated. I am nearing the end of this 2 year ordeal of putting this car together and want get most of it done this weekend. Thanks for any help that I can get.

 

Flame? You must be confusing us with another forum.

Ok, no the rocker arm will not sit atop the stud's base, it will be held off by the pushrod and valve tip..

As for adjusting, an ez way is to bring the cylinder to be adjusted to TDC compression stroke, tighten your adjusting nut by hand until tension can be felt between the pushrod and roller lifter base, spinning the pushrod between your finger tips helps to detect the tension. Once tension is realized, another half turn on the adjusting nut and then tighten your allen set screw. Next cylider, repeat.

For rocker arm geometry look here:

http://www.trickflow.com/product/fordcylinderheads/Trackheat_sbf/pr_trackheat_installation.asp

You can also use a wire coat hanger for "mock up" purposes to get an "estimate" of how long the pushrod needs to be, and be sure to bend the tips of the wire so each end is rounded. If you know where the rocker needs to reside on the valve tip, the coathanger wire will provide you with an excellent referrence point, then remove, measure, and order.

 

Thank you so freakin much. That is about the last of the info that I am needing to know right now to finish puting this thing back together. I am getting really excite here cause it's getting really close to being done. As for the flaming comment I wasn't too sure about this forum.... you guys freakin rock!!! I am a member of another forum for my daily driver (2003 Hyundai Tiburon) called www.newtiburon.com and they are all freakin kids and jump all over a situation to start flaming..... ok back on topic..... any other suggestions are welcome right now.... also do you suggest using the springs that I intend to run or should I install a set of "gauging springs"? Or am I ok to use my dual spring setup that I am going to run?

 

Give a break down of your combo..

The dual springs should be fine, provided they are the appropriate specifications for the type of tappets you are using..

No this isn't the typical forum, that is populated and run by children whom attempt to provide technical advice with little or no experience.

 

The combo for the top of the motor is as follows: Roush 200 cast heads with 2.02 and 1.60 valves, 1.6 adjustable rockers, the lift on the cam right off the top of my head I want to say .568 not exact but damn near close to that. The dual spring setup that I am lookin at is says that it is rated at a max of .650 lift with the seat pressures as follows: 165 lbs @ 2.00" ; 205 lbs @ 1.90" ; 245 lbs @ 1.80" ; 510 lbs @ 1.30 with a coil bind at 1.215". The rocker studs are 3/8 from ARP. No pushrods yet haven't gotten that far but I do have Comp Cams measuring tool. Also on these Roush heads when I go to install the springs should I put any shims or some kind of a seat for the springs to sit on or is it alright for them to sit dirrectly on the heads machined surface? I will have more questions later as I come up with them. As for now back to work....

 

Ok, the Roush Irons are Dart Windsor Srs, just repackaged as Roush and sold for a higher price. (gotta love component Branding.)

What is the seat pressure @ the recommended installed hieght, should be less than 145lbs. (1.800- 1.850" installed heights on a SBF).

Yes, you'll need spring seat cup to install the springs within your heads, shims aren't a neccessity but if the installed heights vary more than .05" you'll need to shim your valve springs accordingly.

Usually, shimming is to attain a specified installed height or to take up for the variations encountered when the valve seat has been re-machined or if the Valve Spring Pockets aren't equivalent in depth.

 

I have gotten away with about 165 seat pressure on a small base circle cam for a retro fit...open was about 350-400...can't remember. This was the K-Motion K800 spring...which is cheap (about 80 bucks a set) and I love em...got the 351 to turn to 6800 with no problems with 2.05 intake valves and Full tulip 1.6 exhaust valves...wasn't running boost at the time though... :-(

I think the installed ht. does usually come out to around 1.8 though...

 

oops...didn't clarify...6800 rpm on a retro HYDRAULIC ROLLER cam...pretty good in my book (for a small base circle cam).

 

here's the link to the springs that I am lookin at buying let me know if you think they will work. So far it looks like they will
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&item=7929140394&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT


Ah crap........ lookin at Worlds website about the 200 heads it says that in a hydraulic roller appication like mine the spring specs are as follows: 1.437 dual spring at 125 lbs

 

Ok found another one.... this one looks like it meets all the requirements that you have mentioned..... check it out

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7928630988&category=33617

Also where am I going to be able to find a nice set of spring seat cups and valve seals? Ok nevermind found the spring seat cups and vavle seals on Summit's website. I'll wait till work tomarrow to order them so I can get them dirt cheap..... it's so payin off to work at a performance shop god am I loving it

 

If you work at a performance shop, why are you buying components from e-bay?

I wouldn't recommend either of those sets.

Valve springs are reasonably priced; pick up the proper set the first time. I would have the valve springs specifications matched to your camshaft. Call a few tech lines and have them match the springs to your cam's specs and then shop around.

(i.e. You can order most of the high end manufacturers products from Summit - Comp Cams, Crane Cams, Crower, K-Motion, etc..)

Example: Cam Motion P/N 723030 $117.70 (springs)

 

I've got a list at home from comp cams some where with the recommended springs and what not but for the life of me I can't find it and it's buggin the sh*t out if me. It's a list that I got from the sales rep when we figured out the grind on the cam. But I figured I'd ask you guys first about all of the other items that I have found. I think I am just trying to find the quickest route right now to finish this damn thing considering it's been so long since it's been running. Just need to calm down and do it right damn it... lol But seriously thanks for everyones help so far I really appreciate it

 

On a side note, you should run 7/16" roller rocker studs and rockers, not 3/8"..