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Painlessly creating an EFI intake from a carbed intake

Discussion in 'MOPAR Turbo Tech Forum' started by 351Frick, Jul 5, 2007.

  1. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    Anyone ever thing of making a rig for creating a EFI intake from a carbed intake?
    I was thinking....if you rig from the bottom, every standard port height intake would fit regardless of top half design.
    I've racked my brains on how to rig from the top end but because the manifolds are so plenty it makes it impossible.
    Is there such a thing in existance? Where do I buy one if there is? :scratch:

    And of course if you have the rig it's super easy to do the rails as well. Pretty sure I'm sparkin up the welder and make one tonight. Could it be this easy??
     
  2. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    OK, just realized this is posted in the wrong section. How do I move it...anyone? And sorry.
     
  3. Anthony Fury

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2003
    You mean, so you can use a hand drill to put the holes in?

    Your thinking is right, as far as the spacing, etc. I made a jig that references the head-side bolt holes of one side of the intake, but all it does is "float" the bungs so they can be tacked in the bores squarely and at the same height. So it's not very tough. Yours will need to be substantially more rigid, because a large (3/4"?)regular drill forced straight down on a sideways runner will want to go every direction BUT straight. What bungs are you using? MSD? Or? What size hole do they require? The ones I've seen pictures of have a step in them (where they meet the manifold).

    P.S. Even then, I don't think there's any way to take the "pain" out of the whole operation, hahah.
     
  4. FastmOp

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2004
    My jig is a bridgport LOL :D
     
  5. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    I ended up having a guy try out for guitar for the band I play in, jig never happened....grrrrr.
    The bungs I have are not stepped at all. ?I dunno why really? I bought them at a mustang shootout in Bradenton about 2 months ago with some fuel rail.
    I was thinking of bolting the jig to the bottom using the manifold bolt holes and creating a guide for the bit if I don't entertain the thought of a press. then taper out like an inch or two inside the guide cosest to the manifold by a few extra thousands o keep that portion of the bit sharp. Maybe even purposely dull th rest of the bit to have the guides last a bit longer. I dunno 100% yet.

    As far as drilling from the top, what does one normally do? Predrll with a finer bit? A guide inside the guide? Ohhhhh...A replceable guide inside the main guide so when it wears it's an easy replacment to keep the bit placement accurate accurate when the bit has to much wear. Better yet, attach a guide directly to the bit so there are no teeth cutting in maybe.

    ??Maybe??
     
  6. Anthony Fury

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2003
    +2!

    Frick, you need to make friends with someone who owns or runs a machine shop - if you can prove to them that you won't blow anything up, they'll probably let you run the 'port if you're not in the way.

    Hint: machinsts are easily swayed with donuts.
     
  7. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    Amen brother! Wish I knew the machine shops in the area let alone the people who run them.
    Does this mean you feel the idea isn't all that feasible? Or simply to much effort for the outcome maybe?
    I'm not talking about doing it as a business, just as a "I'm gonna build 2 or 3 of these" kind of thing. LOVE to use a Briidgeport!!
     
  8. Anthony Fury

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2003
    Well, a guy on moparts made a jig (like you're talking about) that allows you to drill out newer magnum heads to accept old style LA intakes, and I guess it works great. If you really beefed it up....it might work. The whole drill bit thing is what's going to kill your steam. I tried doing the holes on a plain old drill press with drill bits, about 5 years ago, on an intake I sold long ago. It was a mess. Starting with small drills and working up didn't really help, because the bit never really has a "square" place to seat. The holes turned out like garbage.

    If you have a good size drill press, my money would be on an endmill chucked into that - laying it out with any precision is the next challenge after that.

    Worst case, there are places that will do it for $350-400, which is pretty reasonable, especially when you compare that amount to the rest of the $$ you'll have in the system.
     
  9. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    Hmmm, you're right. I think i just like to build and invent stuff way to much. :)
    So much for the painless EFI intake thread! haha An entertaining thought tho.
     
  10. TRNDZ

    Joined:
    May 29, 2006
    My first intake was drilled on a drill press. I used a hole saw and it went through like butta. Hole saws will go through nice at any angle.
    Or you could take a quick drive up to Wisconsin and spin up my bridgeport.
     
  11. tilt

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2004
    Hint: machinsts are easily swayed with donuts
    Beer works good too.If you can find someone that works with bridgeport "ez-traks" then the possibilties are endless.
     
  12. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    haha, careful. Might take you up on that. I was there but a few months ago, my wife's from there and her family is stil there.
    Hole saws you say huh....hmmmmm.
     
  13. Anthony Fury

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2003
    Or a hole saw!! :D Man, Trendz is king of wicked machining! Just take your time laying it out - clamp down a real good straightedge and find something solid to measure against.

    Here - don't say I never give you nothin'. (One of my grandpa's famous lines) I forgot I even had this drawing, and stumbled across it the other day. Please do not make fun of my wild cowboy dimensioning, haha. In hindsight - I should have added 0.007" to the spacing between the two, whereby the morphodite decimals would have become pleasant fractions, easily readable with a good scale or even tape measure. For instance, 8.180" becomes 8.187" (~ 8 3/16"), 7.430" becomes 7.437" (~7 7/16"), 8.930" becomes 8.937" (~8 15/16") and so on. For what it's worth I guess.

    [​IMG]#ad


    If you're going to be replicating everything (fuel rails) in the same manner, I highly recommend getting yourself a good swinging dial and a halfway decent set of 12" calipers. Make this easy on yourself, hahah. Neither are super expensive, and even when you're done with the intake, you'll really impress your friends when you dial something in on your drill press! I also recommend buying a 35/64" reamer ($20 for a decent one) to clean up the injector bores after they've been welded....hopefully yours don't warp too bad. I started with 3/4" stock drilled to 1/2" and let the reamer eat the rest after welding. Came out perfectly compared to the last intake I did, where I pre-sized them and everything went to hell in a handbasket. Kind of a pain in the balls, since you have to re-setup everything again, but to me, the shiney bore surface and perfect size makes it worthwhile.

    There you go, everything you didn't want to know about making your own intake, hahahaa.
     
  14. 351Frick

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2004
    Woo hooooo, NICE! Gotta love this board. Where else can we find people like us? haha
     
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