CSU carb runs great as long as the car stays down, but everytime it over rotates and I have to blip the throttle its just like I shut the switch off. I have worked with the bypass thinking that it just wasnt recovering but no change. I cant really get any usable results from the A/F to pin point anything, but I have to assume that it is lean. Any ideas would be appreciated. Combo below

8.2 deck 365" sbf
TFS Head
Super Vic.
C16, Aero. Eliminator pump and Aero Reg.
YSI cog
Powerglide

Fastest pass 5.35 @ 134 A/F is great for the entire pass.

Thanks,
Jason Hoots

This content is protected

 

What's the engine act like when you get it started again?

Does it cut out in the going up or coming down?

 

Sorry I may have communicated wrong, the car dosent actually shut off it just will not RPM again until the car idles for a few seconds. I will lift and imeidiatly roll back down and it will not rev, as soon as it lands and idles I can smack the throttle and it will take off again and run great for the rest of the pass.

Tearing up too much stuff to continue this, headers are smashed and 2 blower brackets broken.

 

No answer but is it a blower car ?



Just seen that . lol You even said it twice .

 

Just as a guess, I would say it's rich. Snapping off the throttle with a ton of fuel in suspension. When it idles, is it lugging, running like shit ?

 

Was going for that

Wondering how high these wheelies are...

 

And why the peddling .

 

Must be pretty high

 

Make sure it has vent whistles. Especially the front bowl. If its not there fuel will gush out the vent tube and flood the motor. However I would expect this under hard exceleration also but still a good thing to rule out.

What bowls are on the carb?

 

I dont lift until it is on the bumper, the vent tubes are removed but I am not sure what Whistles are but there is nothing inserted where the vent tubes were. Under hard acceleration it has no problems so I dont think that it is gushing fuel out of there. It doesnt take long to get straigned out once it idles, probably around .5 sec.

I will try to post a video later.

 

worst thing you can do is assume and not check,

The question I asked about the float bowls is an important one also.

 

I dont think hes saying its coming down because its falling on its face . Hes saying he has to close the throttle blades and it doesnt respond after that .

I think I would try keeping it off the bumper . lol

If you dont have to peddle it then your good to go , right ?

What about putting a wastegate on it ? You have a gear retard ?



I want video !!!! NOW !

 

The bowls are just regular Holley HP bowls, I will check for the whistlers now.

Yes you are correct once I close the blades it is just a waiting game until it slams back down the blades are closed for a second then back to normal. going by the incrementals the car should run in the low 5.20s or high 5.10s but a .35 is the most power I have had in it on a full pass. I am working now on finding the happy medium on the whellie situation. Its a hard task running the Radials and keeping the wieght on the tire and applying the power at the right time to not wheelie and not spin.

Another thing is that if it just spins and I peddle it, it will come right back up. It seems to be load related or being in the air that high.

I have a 7531 with a boost curve in it so timing is directly related to boost pressure.

Racing tomorrow so I am going to try and get some additional data and some more video

 

Anotherr thought. How does your BOV do ? Is there a light spring in it ? Does the blower surge at all ? If the it's slow to open, I could see air getting force in the engine still, cause it to richen up also. Just a theory I'm thinking out loud with.

 

I have to ask, do you have rear jet extensions? I had a similar problem in the past. On a hard launch she would bog until I lifted off the pedal for a moment and slammed it again.

 

Yes on the jet extensions

The blow-off works pretty good, no surging. I actually looked at that first and adjusted the spring and and tension, no change. The datalog graph shows boost responding immediatly with throttle.

One thing I want to ask is where is the best place to pull the boost reference for the regulator? Right now it comes from below the carb. On the baseplate actually.

 

Should be referenced at the hat .





Does the carb have dual boost referenced power valves ? If so does the rear have an extension , like this ?

#ad

 

:hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
whelie bars ?

 

You can use the time based retard on the 7531 along with the boost retard . When you use the time based retard you can pull additional timing off the brake then ramp it back in . It may help keep it off the bumper . The boost retard will not change , the timed retard will be in addition to the boost retard so you can take power out of it in just the right spot .