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LT1 with FAST Classic, won't start...

Discussion in 'EFI Tuning Questions and Engine Management' started by Guillaume, Apr 30, 2011.

  1. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    The ECU isn't "seeing" the distributor signal and I don't know what is wrong :bang:

    Everything is wired correctly and functional. The optispark gets its 12V and ground, high and low-res signals are there (only low-res is wired to the FAST ECU).

    I've checked the signal @ pin J3 of the FAST ECU connector and it does get a signal when the engine is turning (from the low-res output on the optispark connector).

    J2 has a ground signal from the optispark connection (ref low)

    The motor cranks but doesnt start. There is no spark and looking @ the FAST "dashboard" there is no RPM signal at all. The other sensors (TPS, temp, etc) work fine.

    The RPM/distributor signal does make it to the FAST ECU but it looks like it's not seeing it.

    Someone has an idea why? :huh:
     
  2. TurboNova

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2004
    Sounds like your classic FAST does not have the correct ignition type, everything else can be correct but you not see any rpm I the ecu is set up for HEI or something else.
     
  3. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    That's what I was thinking also....

    Thing is, I had the ECU sent to FAST when I bought it used from a forum member and on my invoice it says they converted the ECU to work with the optispark.

    It says it's B2B, Ignition type = IPU, ICC = no. Part number 30123010, Firmware rev B2BIPU_H

    In the additional notes it says: Converted to Optispark #30126010.

    Is there a way it could "lose" some settings?

    Can I verify what type of ignition it's set-up for? Can I correct it myself if i need to?
     
  4. TurboNova

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2004
    Ignition type = ipu means it's setup as magnetic and not optispark.

    There is no way to lose it's settings. You cannot change it yourself it's done on the circuit board.
     
  5. Craig Smith

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2003
    I forget where exactly but in the software you can look at some ECU settings. Go online with C-ComWP and find this window... see if the firmware says B2BUNV_E or B2BIPU_H. It should say B2BUNV_E.

    If that isn't the problem it sounds like the ECU isn't properly configured.
     
  6. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    On my RMA & Repair checklist it says: Firmware Rev. B2BIPU_H

    I'll check with C-ComWP tonight and make sure.

    Craig & Brian, thanks for the help. I appreciate it. :cheers:
     
  7. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    [​IMG]#ad


    looks like the firmware is correct.
     
  8. Craig Smith

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2003
    Feel like experimenting? Get a 1000 ohm resistor and connect it between the lo-res signal wire and the +5V wire for TPS and MAP sensor power. I think it's pin E1 but check the pinout chart to be sure. See if it starts then.
     
  9. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    Sure!! :D

    What are we trying to acomplish by doing that?

    I'll get the resistor and connect it between these two wires:

    J3 '“ CRK REF
    Connects to the reference signal output coming from the ignition module. Also
    serves as the signal input on a hall-effect crank sensor. Connect to pin B of the 4 pin
    male Weatherpack connector.

    and

    E1 '“ +5V REF
    5 volt signal generated by ECU used as a reference voltage for sensor
    measurements. Connect to pin C of MAP and TPS connectors described above.
     
  10. Craig Smith

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2003
    This will make sure that the signal from the Optispark can and will change states appropriately as the sensor rotates. It's called a pull-up resistor. There are parts that should be in place on the circuit board inside the ECU to facilitate this. This "test" will help to determine if the pull-up circuitry was set up correctly when the ECU was sent back in. If it wasn't, you wouldn't see an RPM signal from the Optispark, so this will serve to rule that out.
     
  11. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    Tried it, didn't change anything. I do not have a wire coming out of pin E1, so I used the 5V ref from the OEM ECU (which is still there to control the fuel pump, gauges, etc...).

    Always reads 0 RPM with the distributor spinning. I had my multimeter on pin J3 and there is a signal coming from the optispark when it spins.

    The OEM ECU does "see" the RPM signal, the FAST ECU does not.
     
  12. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    ECU is shipping to FAST today, hope this will fix my problem. :)
     
  13. Craig Smith

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2003
    I hope so too. :)

    Tying that lo-res signal line to a 5 volt supply from a different device unfortunately invalidated the test I had proposed, but hopefully they will find an issue with the ECU at FAST and get it resolved for you. Keep us posted.
     
  14. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    oh... why didn't I think about that :bang:

    Let's just hope FAST will fix it.

    From UPS's website: "On Vehicle for Delivery Today" :D
     
  15. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    Yay! It's fixed! :chacha:

    "We should be able to ship today. It was configured for LT1 but there was another problem
    uncovered which we resolved this morning.

    They just brought it back to me from the tester and it
    is good to go."
     
  16. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    Plugged everything and still doesnt work :bah:

    Same thing happens, i don't have a RPM signal.

    It says I have an error code # 4, that means "MAP fault". What's weird is that the MAP reading seems just fine... it was @ 98 kpa with key on engine not running, which sounds normal.

    I don't know what to look for right now, which is pretty frustrating... >:(
     
  17. Craig Smith

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2003
    The error code really isn't of any use on this system. Have you considered trying to tie the crank ref signal to the +5V signal from the FAST (not the factory PCM) like we proposed earlier?
     
  18. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    Yes, that's what I'll try tomorrow.

    I will probably unplug the factory PCM completely and wire the FAST to all the necessary sensors directly. When I'll get it to run I'll think about re-connecting the factory accesories one by one.
     
  19. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    I tried using the 5v reference signal from the FAST unit and nothing changed.

    I noticed that the air temp reading also doesnt work... I've checked the wirring and there is 0 ohm between the tan wire on the IAT and pin D1 on the FAST ECU connector, and there is also 0 ohm between the black wire on the IAT and pin E2 on the FAST ECU connector. I've checked the resistance of the IAT and it's at 2.75k ohm which sounds about right.

    I re-re-re-read my Fast Track Performance instructions and FAST's instructions and noticed a difference. Fast Track says to plug the E2 sensor return wire in some kind of resistor module (which I do not have) and FAST's instructions says to connect pin E2 directly to the ground side of the IAT, CTS, TPS and MAP.

    I plugged everything as per FAST's instructions, all these wires directly to pin E2 without any resistor module (what ever that is).

    This is what the dashboard looks like with key ON:

    [​IMG]#ad
     
  20. Guillaume

    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    Tried the pull-up resistor, nothing changed. When I have the key @ ON and I spin the distributor there is no RPM signal. "RPM" on dashboard stays at 0.

    Verified the wiring from the optispark connector to the FAST ECU and all is good. Pin A on opti (red/black, low-res signal) is connected to pin J3 on FAST ECU, pin D on opti (pink/black, dist. ref. low signal) is connected to pin J2 on FAST ECU.

    I still don't understand why the IAT isn't reading also... I have a feeling these 2 problems are related but I can't figure out what is wrong with it. :'(

    While checking the connections one by one, I noticed that there is no wires comming out of the connector for pin M2 and M3. FAST instructions says to connect them directly to battery negative:
    M2 '“ ANA RTN
    Ground wire for analog ECU circuitry. Connect directly to negative battery terminal.
    M3 '“ DIG RTN
    Ground wire for digital ECU circuitry. Connect directly to negative battery terminal.


    Didn't help. IAT still reads 0* and no RPM signal.
     
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