starting a lightweight bracket car project using a 87-93 mustang. Haven't gotten the body yet so it could still be either hatchback or notch. I have all the drive train out of a 1990 GT and will be using that.
Project will be:
automatic C-4 for light reliability, consistantcy, simplicity
302 EFI NA to start out with then I will turbo it using DIY method and turbo.
rear end will be 8.8

big question is

HOW MUCH can I get the weight down too? Not wanting to break the bank, so this will be a simple lightweight bracket car. I figue If I can get it light weight, keep hp in a decent range it will run pretty quick and stay together. Then as time permits add a home installed single turbo.....

Is it possible to get it down to say 2200-2400 lbs with a light 302 and auto.??
thanks
Jack

 

I don't think you can get it quite that light. I know a guy here in houston that got his down to 2475 with him in it. It had a stock block 347, aluminum heads, and 6 point rollbar. It made like 425rwhp and ran mid 10s. It required cutting and chopping every extra bit of metal out of the car. He finally put it into the wall and totaled it. He was a crazy focker. I wouldn't have driven it. It felt like a tin can around you.

 

ver on hardcore50.com they have a thread on there about taking weight out of these cars. I would suggest get a really good cage because once you start hacking out all of the bracing and stucture to the car it will be a tin can!!!!

 

Art Morrison Super Car Chassis and all glass. If it is a bracket car there arn't many rules. 21-2200 with you in it.

 

A hole saw kit is going to be one of your best friends!!!!
On my old RS series Pinto every flat panel had been holesawed.
The door jambs,hinge pillars,trunk floor,everything but the firewall
(because of fire in the engine bay considerations).All glass replaced with Lexan,all sound deadener scraped off,all seam sealer scraped,every not used screw,bolt,nut,rivet etc,etc,etc.
Like they say,"Its hard to get 50 lbs off in one place but easy to get 1 pound in 50 places".
I would say 2450 to 2550 in doable.
I would go ahead and do a glide on the first shot instead of a C4
and then a glide,

 

I didnt want to "drill out" metal, but I was planning on trying my hand at removing the understructure of the hood, and insides of the doors and fiberglass it. Maybe even the hatch. 2450 lbs would be sweet!

I also read somewhere that the kmembers on the 79-81's was a lot lighter than the 82-93 models, I wonder is that true?
Jack

 

The only way you'll get it that light is to do hole saw every structure you can find.

 

There used to be a guy here in town with a coupe that he acid dipped to get every last ounce of weight out of. I have long since forgotten his name or the weight of the car. He worked up at Texas Turbo back when Joe R was working there so that was probably oh a good 10 years ago.

 

Forget the hole saw and get a plasma cutter!

Yes, the earlier cars are lighter (79-84) they are also weaker especially in the floor area.

We started with a 4cyl coupe (lighter brakes) and a plasma cutter, lexan side windows, small fuel cell, chromoly 6 point, one poly seat. With a 351 iron headded windsor, TH400 and a 8.8 car weighed in at 2,520lbs.

 

You can take a lot out to get it lighter, but after a point it is going to start costing a lot of money. Every bit here and there helps. You would be surprised how much everything weighs. I just went through my stock wiring harnesses and removed the main eec harness and took out about 13lbs of wire. If it's a track only car, the front and rear bumpers and side impact beams will take out 100lbs. Do a search on the various sites. I saw one guy even replaced the metal that holds the radiator in with aluminum to save 6lbs. It takes a combination of creativeness and money.

BTW, I had to remove the brace under the hood to clear an intake and it barely weighed anything. If you are trying to get a mustang down to that low of a weight you have got to use a pin on fiberglass hood. That will save about 30lbs.

 

Not really - - - nothing compares to a tubular.
There are more reasons to get one other than weight.
I am happy with my PA. One of the best purchases I made for the entire car!!

 

Does anyone have the link to the other site about this? I tryd...and still am tryn to find it.


What kind of weight are some of the turbo cars running around here? Any of them light? Meaning under 3000lb with driver?

 

I am under that with my gutted straight six 200 powered car, and it is also easy to do with a 4 cyl.
If you want under 3000 with a V8 it will help if it is a notch (not hatch) and gutted.

 

Ok....I can understand the v6 thing....But why dont you think it can be done with a HATCH?

 

Fiberglass hatch and lexan window= light

 

Any idea how much lighter?

 

I would say 65 to 80 pounds but might be more.

 

Not V6 - - straight six

 

Wrong. I had a 85 coupe with glass doors and hood, all glass windows in it, stck block 302 with aluminum heads, T-5, 8.8 with 31 spline axles, carbureted, carpet with no sound deadner and 1 seat. No drilling or cutting but it did have a full k-member kit with coilovers. Car weighed 2320 without me in it.

Another example. My new car has glass doors/trunk/hood/fenders. 12 piont chromoly cage, 400 inch windsor, powerglide and carpet, 2 seats, dash. This car weighs in at 2310 without me in it and no nitrous bottle. It does however have extensive time in lightening it....but without resorting to a holesaw.

 

Where are you weighing in at?