Hi,

I'm building a turbo-setup for a stock 318 with a 904 transmission. I would like to know what cam you would use for a 350-400hp goal. I intend to use stock converter for a while and the car will be a street/trackday-car. It's a -74 dart, stripped for a "few" pounds..

It has a 650dp (hangar18 mod), msd6a ignition with a blaster coil, garrett gt45 turbo, innovative lc-1 wideband. I´m aware that the bottomend might or might not break, but as someone on the forum said.. everyone blows up their first turbo-build..

If you could point me to a suitable cam on summit I'd very much appreciate it.

 

Use the cam it came with and you will make your goal.

 

If you really want a cam for a 318 that is pretty much stock. I like this one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60400/

 

Crane 467/494 on a 114. I THINK its like 224/230? My car makes a hair over 400 on 6-7 lbs. 500 on 13. 11.48 @ 120 on pump gas and 13 lbs.

Got your message on youtube earlier, id choose the GT45 over the tiny T3. Best of luck.

 

Thanks for your replies! I'm somewhat new to mopars (I've been running slant6 fora few years tho..), could someone tell me where this manifold is from?

#ad


I think the bottom one would be a good fit if swapped left&right ? I think it's best to run the tubing in front with the turbo positiong on the right side (relocating the alternator).

Again, thanks.. I'm off the get some work done

 

The bottom one is off a magnum motor and can be swapped left to right....i would get the 92-93 casting date ones, they have the bigger exhaust discharge. dont know what the top one is though.

Topfuel dart has the magnums on his build so search for pics of his build

 

Pretty sure you have to cut down the guides to run that cam... No?

 

Is anyone here running locked ignition on the street, if so, how is it? Is there a "reversed" vacuum-advance that'll operate under boost and lower the igniton?

 

Maybe a big block and shorten the shaft?Opposite rotation?

 

Nevermind...still need vacuum.

 

I set my timing for max power at full mechanical advance which is 20*. I then hook up the vac advance which gives 32is for driving. Under boost, it retards back to 20*

 

If I understand correctly, you have the base ignition set to 20* and no mech. adv? If not, what is your base advance/how much adv does the weights add?

 

That is with full mechanical advance in.

 

Shaker's setup would be better than totally locked out for sure, but a stockish engine would want 40-50* total @ cruise on the highway for best mpg. You can adjust the amount the vac adv. will give on alot of dizzys with a allen wrench in the vac nipple.

 

Ok, think I got it.. I noticed that I've got a -85 block with "fastburn" heads. This should mean that it's got roller lifters, am I right? I will need to verify this but if that's the case I'll leave the stock cam for now.. roller cams are expensive, and most of them are ~.550+ lift which I doubt will be straight fit... ?

Have a nice weekend, I just got off work and heading to the garage

 

FYI, the Lean Burn distributor is a quick and clean way to get yourself a distributor with locked out timing. I'm using one with separate electronic timing controls.

 

No SIR! its close, but no issues here.

 

Roller blocks didn't necessarily get roller cams. A 318 copcar engine is one exception, there might be others. If you do have a roller block, a factory Magnum cam reportedly slides right in, but I think you'd need solid pushrods and not the Magnum pushrods. The Magnum cam doesn't have a snout/eccentric for running a mechanical fuel pump, but Hughesengines makes a bolt-on extender.

I don't fully remember all the LA/Magnum roller cam details, so research that for yourself before you spend $. If you go to Moparts and look for posts by 'patrick', you'll eventually get that breakdown. Patrick is an LA/Magnum bible and knows how to hop them up cheap with the right combination of factory parts.

I presume by 'fastburn' that you have -302 heads? -308 heads (which came on the TBI-equipped 360s of the early 90s) have a larger open-chamber size, bigger ports and/or valves and might be a cheap upgrade -- or just let the turbo push it in anyway. :

 

The top manifold in your pics looks like it's off a 70's head, which has the EGR holes under the exhaust ports. If you don't have these holes in your heads, then they will work fine. If you do have these holes, then the bottom exhaust manifold will need the holes in the head closed up, or exhaust will leak from there.

I had locked out timing on the 318 in my truck for a while, but I recently upgraded to an ignition box with boost retard and have mechanical advance again now, cause the motor would run pretty hot on the highway with only 20 degrees of advance. Now I run 32 degrees total and retard 2.2 degrees per pound on a total max of 8 pounds. The truck weighs nearly 2500kg, but the bone stock 318 gets it moving pretty quick even though it's on 36 inch tires.

 

Interesting, how did You wire that distributor?