The guy dropped off my car with the LT1 longblock installed. I'm out there hooking up driveshaft, torque arm, wires, turbo, intercooler, fuel injectors, TB, etc. I have to get this thing up and running cuz I'm driving it from Upstate New York to Houston either Friday or Sat on a virgin Turbo Motor.
Pic's coming!!!

A toothy grin before I get started on the tasks at hand...


Filthy ABS Block in place...


Now gone ...


The intake before the 60# Mototrons go on ...


Mototrons installed...


Fuel Rails on...


I was flat amazed how clean Jim was able to get the interior of my 93,000 mile intake ...


Trial fitting the intercooler ...


'96 Z28 355 LT1, Custom Bret Bauer Turbo Cam, M6, 4.10 Ford 8.8 differential,
T76 Turbo, 60# mototron Inj, Turbo Tune by Bryan Herter(PCM4Less)
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...Turboinfo.html

 

Re: Countdown for Turbo LT1 has Begun

ABS here, then gone...

 

Latest additions to the effort...
Boost gauge and Silicone tubing (4mm, 6mm and 10mm) kit


Turbo inlet elbow...



David Wilson
'96 Z28 355 LT1, Custom Bret Bauer Turbo Cam, M6, 4.10 Ford 8.8 differential,
T76 Turbo, 60# mototron Inj, Turbo Tune by Bryan Herter(PCM4Less)
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...Turboinfo.html

 

More Pic's...
The Intercooler in place


I had to replace the LTCC kit with a new once since I let the prior one go when I sold the '94 Z28. I reused my 'Russel' over the valve cover plug wire looms to get some quick brackets going since I was pressed for time...



The Turbo in place, showing the -10AN line nipples. Danged close, no?


My kit had 3 ft of -10 an line. I think I used all of an inch and a half...


More pics coming.. my flight is leaving now and I'm mid point flying back to Houston..I'm in the airport typing this..

David Wilson
'96 Z28 355 LT1, Custom Bret Bauer Turbo Cam, M6, 4.10 Ford 8.8 differential,
T76 Turbo, 60# mototron Inj, Turbo Tune by Bryan Herter(PCM4Less)
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...Turboinfo.html

 

Well, after struggling to meet a deadline (I live in New York where the car is located but work in Houston) I had to leave before being able to sort it out.
The intercooler took about 4 or 5 trial fits before settling in the perfect spot. Then I went about installing the piping from the kit I bought off the internet. I ran out of couplers before the job was done and I've decided something. That being, I feel certain Satan invented "T-Bolt" clamps or at least had a hand in designing these. I usually limit my cussing to sporadic utterances. This was more like a cussing "firefight". I'm sure my neighbor thinks I'm deranged, what with me laying under the car, no one else around and my 'colorful' language. I got EVERYTHING hooked up. For the moment, I can't think of a better way for locating the air filter. I'd like it to be higher up. Right now, it's a shorty pointing straight down. For the initial startup, I left the tube off from the discharge going into the throttle body, just incase any junk was in the Intercooler, etc. Well, with everything checked and rechecked, I said a prayer, then turned the key. She fired off right away. No extended cranking whatsoever. Per my engine builder instructions, I set the idle at 2,000 RPM and got under the car looking for fluid leaks, mechanical issues, burning wires, etc. All good! I put my hand in front of the open discharge tube just to feel if it had any output. It was blowing about as hard as when you blow hard into your hands at the 1,900 indicated RPM. I had my LT1 Edit scanner hooked up and right away I noticed that the Left O2 was about 178 and lower while the right O2 was normal. As a result, the Pulse Widths differed. It didn't matter if it was in closed loop or open loop, it was the same. After about 30 minutes, good oil pressure, temps at 235 at the highest, I shut her off and let her cool down. I checked the connections on the O2 sensors and every thing was hooked up and tight. I took her off the jack stands, hooked up the discharge tube and decided to drive it over to the local gas station (about 3 miles away) and put some fresh gas since the car had been sitting with the old gas since 11/2007. Right off the bat, it started backfiring sporadically. Like a lean misfire. At this point, unlike the earlier startup, it was backfiring occasionally even at idle. I opened the hood after getting the gas and looked at the vacuum hookups. I saw the PCV, midpoint drivers side intake manifold, had lost it's tubing connection. I hooked it back up, thinking "problem solved", but it was still missing, just less conspicuously. Up till this point, I was still thinking I could drive it back to Houston but I had to be at work today so I booked a last minute flight. I didn't have time to swap the O2 Sensors to see if the problem followed the swap, indicating a truly bad O2 sensor(They have only been on the old engine about a year and not even been used since 11/2007). The other things I can think of are, another vacuum leak, a bad injector, exhaust manifold leak, PCM Tune off somewhat or a misadjusted valve. At this point and time, I'm either going to have a bud of mine(Extreme Automotive in Rennselaer) look at it in New York, ship the car via transport to Houston, or fix it myself next trip home (4 weeks from now). The engine, Turbo and Intercooler all were seemingly perfect.

David Wilson
'96 Z28 355 LT1, Custom Bret Bauer Turbo Cam, M6, 4.10 Ford 8.8 differential,
T76 Turbo, 60# mototron Inj, Turbo Tune by Bryan Herter(PCM4Less)
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...Turboinfo.html

 

5/27/2008
Well, the car is on it's way here to Houston. Should be here as early as 5 to 7 days from today. Then I can sort out whatever is going on with the lean condition.

6/10/2008
Grrrr... Originally, it was to be here this past Sat/Sunday. Then they said today. Now they say Wednesday. It's driving me nuts!!!

David Wilson
'96 Z28 355 LT1, Custom Bret Bauer Turbo Cam, M6, 4.10 Ford 8.8 differential,
T76 Turbo, 60# mototron Inj, Turbo Tune by Bryan Herter(PCM4Less)
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...Turboinfo.html

 

Comment: It may be the way the pictures look, but the oil drain back from the turbo to the pan - the drain looks below the oil level in the pan - that could be an issue. Then again it may be the way the picture was taken.

 

If it is lower, then clock the center housing at ~45 degrees and put a 45 degree fitting on to pick up some height.

 

I think some of it is picture. I think it has an ever so slight elevation over the pan fitting. Thanks for looking out for me guys

 

When we last left our hero (me), I'd rushed to get the virgin Turbo installation up and running and drive it to Houston, TX from upstate New York. But at the witching hour, it was throwing a code (Left O2 Lean) and it had started backfiring whether in open or closed loop. I decided to punt and caught a flight back to Houston and opted to have the Z28 transported via car hauler. Well, $1,050 freakin' bux later, she got here today.


I eagerly took her the one block back to the house where I'm staying during my contract here in Houston. She's still backfiring... ugh. The LT1 edit scanner showed the Left O2 was lean and the BLM was 160 (maxed out trying to add fuel. I first checked for all vacuum hoses connected and intact. Check. I made sure all the injector connectors were on and tight. Check. I verified the TPS was .69 to 4.5volts in a linear fashion. Check. Hmpf.. so much for an easy fix. Well hell... let's put her on jack stands and have a look at plugs and O2 sensors/wiring. I pulled a few plugs on the drivers(left) side. Crap! I thought it was running lean. These plugs with 25 minutes of driving on them are black and wet and look more like they came out of a 120,000 hard mile farm truck. I pulled the rest of the plugs till all 8 were out. 6 of them looked the same, one was kiiiinda okay and one was just wet and shiny. The O2 sensors looked fairly alike. The Left one did have a bit more soot on it.

So, my first question is, would one bad O2 sensor make the PCM throw so much fuel at both sides of the motor that it loaded up the plugs?

Next question, you guys running the Mototron 60#, what is your PCM poundage set to? Example: When I had the SVO 30#, I set them to 31 or 32 to lean them out. Did you do something similar with the 60's? I've got to get some more Autolite plugs tomorrow and probably an O2 Sensor. I'm going to set the injectors to 62 also to see if I can lean them out.

As if this weren't frustrating enough, the powers that be decided I needed another bite of the 'dung' sandwich. When I was under the hood listening for things, I noticed, "Hey, the Electric water pump isn't working!". Sure enough, even when I put power directly to the pump, bypassing the relay, it's gone. Sigh..I've got one on 'Next Day Air' from Summit and it'll be here Friday due to the late hour order.

 

I am eager to follow this thread, I have a N/A (For now) 95 Z28 LT-1 and I just got the motor back together. Mine runs great everywhere except idle. It ran for a few minutes with no 02 sensors plugged in at all. Actually ran better without them. I plugged them in and now it has a miss in it and seems to load up. No backfires. Sitting at a stoplight will cause it to start stumbling, Start moving and it stutters for a few hundred feet unless I unleash it. It runs super strong up-top and midrange. As far as I know the only thing not hooked up is the AIR pump...
Do these pumps make the engine run that much different? I have new Platnum AC plugs in it and new wires from O'reillys parts...They swore the wires were excellent...But I dont know. I suspect them a bit. I have long tube pace setters just installed.

I have zero experience in LT-1 Tuning and zero scan tools etc. What are some things I can do to find out issues for myself? Right now I just dropped the car off at a local repair shop......To have it scanned and see if they can help me figure it out. None of the scanners at the auto parts places seem to be able to read the dang codes...I threw up a light last night while driving but I dont know how to see what its about...
The car really has me a bit mad since it runs so good driving along.


Background: I blew the headgasket on the drivers side in January...The car has sat since. I had not replaced the O2 sensors and they saw a fair amount of anti-freeze and steam...Did that totally kill them? I did away with the air pump because I was tired of backfires without the convertor, the added air just made it crackle and pop.

I had the machine work done and assembled everything myself. It went well. I have the vacumn lines hooked up as I saw them on a emissions sticker and I also bypassed the coolant so it doesnt go through the throttle body.

Where and what kind of scanner do I need to buy? How much? What will it allow me to do? Thanks, I hope I didnt mess your thread up...I just figure since I have some gremlins too I should stay tuned.

 

really 1 being bad should only mess up the one side. are both showing 160?
where are you o2sensors?
i'd be looking for exhaust leaks to.

 

I stopped at the local VatoZone and picked up two new Bosch O2 sensors and 8 new plugs. I'll put them in this evening and post what the scanner says about the change.

 

No, only the drivers side reported Lean O2. It was 178 and less. Not only that, but it was lazy in the fluctuations too. I'll recheck the manifold bolts tonight as well. Thanks,

 

How much work was it to remove the ABS Brakes? How much weight do you think you took out of the car? It sure looks like it opened up alot of room under the hood.

The shop next door to my office is trying to figure my car out as I type...Hope they just scan the thing and figure out what sensors need attention...I seen them under the hood with a flashlight looking around...I am paying $$$$ for labor....I been under the hood with a flashlight for hours looking...Nothing to see....With my car its in the tune or the dang sensors. I told them that...I guess they could find a mistake but darnit they should do what I ask first. Read the freaking codes. geez.

 

Removing the ABS block is not a big deal. Running the replacement lines is the most difficult part. They want you to 'double flare' the ends of the tubing and I used both the double flaring kit that came in my 'kit' and one I bought new from the Advanced Auto. Neither did the job worth a crap. I guess you have to get a Snap On or MAC tool version. These cheap ones absolutely suck. I spent three times as much time trying to double flare the tubes as I did actually removing the ABS block.

 

You couldnt get away with just buying pre-flared stock tubing from the auto parts store and using a good bender? I have a bunch of check lights on the dash already I dont know if I should cause any new ones to light up....LOL.
I have a non-airbag steering wheel and so now I got the pesky light on for that all the time...My security light is on full time...And my SES light has been coming on once in awhile lately...AS is the coolant level check light...But its fine. Looks like Christmas on my dash alot lately. Wish I knew how to get rid of every light except the SES light.

 

In hindsight, I would heartily recommned going that exact route. The kit comes with lines, prebent and fitted with the proper ends for going to the included Line Lock and Proportioning valve but it's the lines going elsewhere that could benifit from every premade line you can locate.

 

I got my Turbo installation all finished, then started the car. My scanner immediately noted way lean on the Left O2 Sensor. I thought my O2 sensor might be bad. I bought two new ones. Hooked up scanner and started the engine. Doh! Same as before! Block learn pegged at 160. I converted the Bryan Herter Flash file (Via LT1 Edit) to Speed Density. This was 'better' but it still bucks and back fires. Sometimes it seems like a motor running on 7 cylinders with the 8th periodically firing. Weird!! So, then I decided to log the events while I drove it up and down the block. But, As I sat there with the key on (motor off though) and got the scan/log session going, I noticed something odd. You know that when you first turn the key on, the O2 heaters come on and start warming the O2. Well, both O2 readings (remember, the motor is still off at this point, just the key is in the 'Run' position) are showing 458 mv at first, then the right side (that's been normal from day one) starts slowly moving up to 7xx, 8xx millivolts. But the left side that's been giving me grief, goes down to low single digit millivolts and stays there. Wow... what the hell? Wiring issue? Must be! I went ahead and drove the car down the block and back with the scanner on. It's bucking, sneezing, backfiring... ugh... This is the same thing it did when the Turbo is not hooked up. I'm going to pull the wiring harness off that side, up into the engine bay and start looking for shorted wiring.

 

Did you make sure to file down the end of the tubing? What works best for me is to taper the end of the tube (about 1/4 inch of the end) just a little bit with a table mounted grinder. It might be hard for you while its in the car to do it but that allows the tubing to bend a little easier when you do the double flare.