Hey Everyone,

I have been reading here for a long time and think its time I start a thread. I am still in the planning stage and have a few questions.
I have my original slanty, now 360/904 '71 Duster I bought in February and built. I have been looking into a possible single "rear-mount" turbo setup,
due to the fact that there is NOT reasonably enough room in the engine bay. I like the fact that the car is easy to maintain, and we like to keep it simple.

So, what I am trying to figure out is what to do for exhaust, turbo sizing, etc.
I was look at the MPT70, but I am curious of spool time delays, etc. due to the turbo being a few feet farther back.
The car currently has hooker comp headers, that absolutely have to go. When looking for manifolds, can I go with
some port matched stockers/magnums or should I try to pickup some hi-po manifolds? I was thinking I could locate the turbo right before
the rear-end where the floor pan rises going into the trunk. I will just merge the two pipes into a collector, then weld a flange off the collector for a turbo. I figure on messing with my modded 750DP, using my AEM Wide-O2 until I can afford to convert to a MS2 setup.

I am open to all comments/suggestions you all might have. I hope I am not leaving anything out.
Btw, my biggest reason for rear-mount turbo is to be able to have power-steering and possibly a/c one of these days.

- Jon

 

If using manual steering the magnum manifold fit nicely in dusters. For a turbo there are lots of suggestions depending on what you're looking to get out of the car. For a driver 360 something between a 67-70mm should be fine.

 

Why does everyone want to use rear mount stuff.....theres plent of room in a duster, there are actually quite a few a-body turbo guys on here just look them up, and a few turbo big block a-body guys on here,,,,,,so there is plenty of room. Everyone who always wastes their money on all the unnessary oilpumps and lines always ends up putting underneath the hood in the end.

 

Way more room under the car than under the hood on an a body. Run a fuel cell and mount twins where the gas tank was. That would be stealth and keep under hood temps to a minimum. I say go for it.

 

ya add the extra 3-400lbs of unneeded stuff.....underhood heat is not a problem, just as much as running a n/a car with uncoated headers...thats why they make coating, wrap, and turbo blankets

humm who do you want to listen to? the guys with running turbo set-ups or ones that dont have running turbo set-ups...you make the choice. What happens when u do drive it on the street and hit a rain storm...all you nice stuff and turbo goes to shit

 

Sooo.... I thought this board was intended to help mopar people get a car put together, tune it, and share it with others. Not to criticize what they want to do. I just want to know do you DODGE TURBO have a turbo abody that is easy to work on and maintain....didn't think so. You have a truck with expansive amounts of room under the hood. I have owned some fast reliable street cars not turbo but that is in the works. Just help the guy out any direction he wants to go.

 

It is a board to help....and im sharing with you the least expensive and easiest way to do it......Turbo69 look in the build boards and tell me how many rear mount systems you see reguardless of make. Hummmmm none because they are not cost effective nor easy to work on. And there are plenty of A-bodys on the mopar board with front mount systems with plenty of room to work on it. Im not hear to argue with people, im just simply stating facts that will save the guy a lot of head ache down the road. All i hope is that if you want to build a rear mount, i hope the oil pump doesnt fail on you and you lose a turbo and you build everything out of stainless so it doesnt look like a rusted mess and leak all the time if your intent is to drive it on the street because i drive mine alot and that is what i built mine for. And i have had a running driving turbo mopar for a while with several different types of setups on it. And yes im in the process of helping my father build a front mount turbo 71 dart with magnum manifolds...not hard at all and will have a/c and all the goodies on it.

 

Regarding how easy it is to work on a turbo A-body, I've got twin T3's in my engine bay running all factory magnum accessories (except P/S) and with an extension and a U-join I can pull every single one of my plugs with out taking anything apart. I've got enough extra room that I'm actually setting up a water/meth system in my engine bay too. As far as maintenance goes all i ever hear anyone complain about is getting to plugs, am I missing something?

Jonwantsadusta: The only reason I don't have P/S is cause i don't like it and because I just flipped magnum manifolds opposed to making headers. If I had made custom log headers then I could have kept all the accessories no problem.

#ad

 

I think "turbo 69" and "dodge turbo" are both right. I really wanted to do the rear mount but I can barely aford to do a front mount. I have had heat issues with all the exhaust under the hood, even though everything is wraped. I ran the car maybe 500 ft down the block with the motor to retarded and in that short time the exahust got so hot it put a huge bulge in the hood. It shrunk the metal so bad I could see it from inside to car, thats what made me pull over. They were glowing red. Luckily I could push most of the dent out. This could happen with headers too but they run down away from sheet metal.

On the other hand the rear mount would be alot more expensive. I sure would hate to see what the turbo would look like after a rain storm or a big puddle. All the expenseses for the extra oil lines, pumps, ect. would sure add up quick. Depending on where you put the air filter, I would think you would have to clean it every other drive.

If you have the money and you don't drive the car that much I say go for the rear mount. If not, do it up front. Theres a bunch of front mount a body cars on here for mounting ideas. There's a really cool 63 (I think) tempast on here too to check out. It has rear mounted twins. Check out all the extra stuff it takes to do it. To me he's got the perfect set up.


Good luck
Jake


Jake

 

Hey Guys,

Thanks for posting some useful information to this thread, instead of bickering.
I am a full-time college student, so budget is definitely in mind. I like the idea of the front-mount,
I was just worried about space for everything, especially routing the exhaust out. The car honestly
needs power steering due to the fact that I will be road racing this car, becuase manual steering during
a spin-out could really hurt me. I already moved the battery to the trunk, its just making everything fit,
without it being a PITA to work on all the time. I have a couple pics of the a-body setups on here, just
a bunch of different angles to get an idea of what needs to be done.

dodge turbo: do you have an pics of that dart? I'd like to see how that looks.

Any other advice or tips is great, thanks guys.

- Jon D.

 

I admittedly don't have a turbo a-body, but I did want to comment about power steering and road racing... If you check out most of the built a-body road racers, and even the original factory a-body trans am and rally cars you will find that they all run manual steering. There is a huge amount if information out there, including a ton on mopar steering science, on the "green brick", a valiant road racer built by the guy at mopar action. Once you are up to speed, the steering effort of manual steering isn't a issue. In the book "Mopar Suspensions" by Mike Martin, he actually recommends removing power steering for all road race classic mopars and replacing it with a good manual box. As someone who had road raced and autocrossed multiple A and E body mopars trust me on this one.

-Jon

 

Hey Jon,

I really appreciate your advice. I did a thread over on forabodiesonly and the general consensus was that you should ABSOLUTELY only use power-steering on anything built for handling. Something about the wheel taking off on you during a spin out or something? I would have a lot less issues w/fitment with the manual box. Thanks for the advice. I know you actually drive your stuff, so I'll take your word for it.

- Jon

 

If you go with a manual box the best way to go as far as manifolds is with flipped magnums. Try for the earlier '92-'93 manifolds, they have a bigger outlet.

 

exactly my setup and plan

 

Post some picture up in the mopar picture thread. I'm sure we'd all like to see the car!

Jake