Some of you may remember my ebay twin turbo mustang from a couple of years ago:

https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/345758-An-honest-to-goodness-ebay-turbo-build!

After its demise at the hands of Sir Isaac Newton, I picked up a coupe car, with plans of tossing the drivetrain out of the hatch in it and driving the wheels off of it. As happens from time to time, I got distracted and interest in the coupe waned. I ended up selling the TT engine in order to buy a motorcycle (much to the chagrin of my wife, btw), and also picked up another turbo AWD DSM for a while. Recently, after working on a few quick mustangs, my interest in the project has been rekindled. I built a 351W to put in the car, and picked up a 76mm On3 charger to slap on it. I got the coupe in the shop, and quickly determined that the pain was going to have to be stripped for the color change ; it was severely cracked and spidered. I've blown the front of the car apart now to strip, and it's currently a work in progress.

The engine:
Stock '85 351W shortblock
Comp Cams XE268H Cam
Ported E7 heads
Trickflow 351 EFI Intake
Professional Products fuel rails
Siemens 83# injectors
MSD Pro-Billet Distributor
MAC Shorty headers
Custom turbo kit
76mm On3 turbo
41mm Tial Wastegate (or equivalent)
HKS BOV (or equivalent)

Electronics:
MSD 6A ignition box
Megasquirt II EMS running ms/extra code
Turbo timer
Custom HUD

Drivetrain:
C4 Trans
3000 stall converter
8.8 rear w/LSD and stock 2.73 gear

The Car:
1982 Coupe
1992 interior conversion
1992 GT exterior conversion (may change this, I'm not a fan honestly)
QA1 10 way adjustable coilovers in the rear
Lakewood 90/10's up front
175# springs up front
5 lug conversion
Full length subframe connectors, torque box reinforcements

This is going to be a long term build ; I'd like to have it ready by racing season next year, but I don't know if I'll make it or not. Pictures to come shortly.

 

First round of pictures:

Engine - complete and ready for installation ; turbo kit is a long way from fab, need a bunch of piping, wastegate, BOV, and a new Argon tank for the TIG

#ad

#ad


Here's what the car looked like when I picked it up ; the paint is in a lot worse shape than the pictures show:
#ad

#ad

#ad



And here is the car in present state of teardown:
#ad

#ad

#ad


Here are the wheels that came with the car:
#ad


The HUD that I'm going to build for the car will be the next generation of an LED display I built for another car. This was built to replace lots of gauges. It reads data directly from the Megasquirt and displays it.
#ad

#ad


Sumped the stock fuel tank:
#ad

#ad

 

That HUD is sweet. Is it your product or a kit? I would like to have one.

 

It's my own - I've not finished hardware for the HUD yet - the design above wasn't HUD, it was an actual LED display in the console. I have some ideas on how I want to do it, so hopefully soon I'll have a completed hardware design. It will use a GPS module for vehicle speed, and read the rest of the data from the Megasquirt.

Thanks for the props!

 

My son and I got a little bit done today.

Removed the front bumper support from the car.
Wire wheeled rust away in areas of the frame rails/core support that needed it.
Prepped the bay for paint.
Fabbed spacers and test fitted Lakewood 90/10 front struts, as well as front brakes.
Pulled torn/cut from soft lines from car.
Sandblasted hood latch assembly, front bumper brackets, brake soft line brackets, and radiator brackets.
Painted brackets.

I really need to find a set of 4 cyl front springs now, and then put the coilovers on the back and check tire clearance. The part that I dread the most Is the prep work for paint lol

 

Update:
So, after helping a friend swap his drivetrain into a notch car he bought, I am now the owner of a black 91 hatch. It's in MUCH better shape than the coupe. I'm going to use it as the foundation for this build now, and do something with the coupe car later (maybe even sell it).
I've nearly got my friend's swap completed (having to cut/weld a valve cover so his supercharger clears), and after that, it's time to start on mine again. I've been ordering some parts here & there, including subframe connectors, torque box reinforcements, a T4 turbo flange, and some v-band clamps. While I'm waiting to get the hatch in, I'm going to go ahead and weld the v-bands onto my headers and start working out how I want to run all of my plumbing. Soon, soon....

 

I like the gauge setup. I am doing something very similar in my C10

 

So today, I managed to cut/weld an aluminum valve cover for my friend's car to clearance his SC, finished making his fuel lines, then worked on my turd for a while.
I cut the 2 bolt flanges off of the headers, and welded v-bands on in their place, started fabbing a Y-block for my fuel lines, and worked on line routing, and bolted my T4 flange to my turbo, and scribed the inside to port match them. I haven't decided on charger placement yet, but I think I'm gonna mount the turbo on the driver's side, and run the intake through a hole in the fender apron, kinda like a cold air intake. Next thing I'm gonna do is work on building a new wiring harness, and putting together a BOM for my HUD.

 

Just my .02, even though the hatch is cleaner.... You'll regret not building a notch later. They're worth more if you try to sell later and most people will agree they look better..... Throw LX bumpers on it and de-rice it! Just an opinion, good luck with whatever you decide!

 

I'm actually in the minority that likes the hatch better than the notch lol. I jumped the gun when I bought that car and it wasn't really what I wanted. I may keep it around, although it needs a LOT of work.

 

So, I'm debating turbo placement ; my initial thought was driver's side to minimize intercooler piping and keep exhaust heat off of the starter, but now I'm thinking passenger side to make room for my battery.What do you guys think? Turbo on driver's side and run the battery in the trunk, or turbo on passenger side?

 

I say put it in the trunk whichever route you go. Looks better and gives you more room to work with.

 

I thought you meant put the turbo in the trunk... you meant battery lol... thats what I get for skimming threads while drinking

 

Haha...now that would be different for sure.

 

I say passenger side, it make routing of the down pipe easier. Also as stated you can leave the battery alone and thats one less thing to mess with.

 

https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/357093-Rear-mid-mount-turbo-in-1990-mustang

Jess

 

This is how I'm leaning now, although the shorter charge piping of keeping the turbo on the driver's side was attractive lol. Getting started on the car hopefully tomorrow, so I need to pull the pan back off today and weld a -10AN bung in the oil pan for the turbo return. Passenger side, it is. I'll very likely mount it to the frame rail as well, to keep the weight off of the headers.

 

Same way I did mine, just make sure you have solid motor mounts or flex on your up pipe if you are mounting it straight to the frame.

 

I caution the use of individual flanged headers. They do not have much meat for sealing against the head. Looks like you upgraded the heads, can't go wrong over the E7's. What turbine is in the ON3 76mm turbo?

 

Yeah, I know there's not a lot there for the headers to seal with, but I'm gonna try them. I already had them, so why not?
I'm not sure what you're asking - are you asking about the turbine housing A/R or the size of the wheel? A/R on the turbine housing is .96. Dont' remember the wheel size right off hand.