has anyone tried both of these turbos? i have both. wondering if the hx might spool a little faster then the wh?

 

I dont have both but I do have the hx35. On a stock 302 long block with an e cam, it spools at 2000 and 11 psi by 2200 rpm. It comes on hard but dies off around 5800-6000 rpm. Hope that helps a little.

 

I have the 21cm H1C housing if your looking for a better V8 housing. Most came with 12 or 16cm which spools a little too soon for a V8, not giving you enough upper RPM. H1C has no wastegate, allowing the use of a more reliable external gate. internal gate holsets can't even work when used on a 4cyl.

 

im running the wh1c with the stock internal wastegate with a different actuator and a mbc on my 3.7 inline six with a manual 3 speed. im limited to 5k redline. starts spooling in 3rd around 2700-3000 gets to 20psi by 3500. doesnt really leave much left on the table in the way of usable rpm. it has the 12cm housing. was kinda hoping the design difference between the two might equal a slightly faster spool.

 

What size header or manifold do you run? The 2.3 ford and 2.0 dsm guys have good spool on the hy-hx35 turbos. I ran the hy and hx 35 with good results. The hx will need an external gate or it will creep unless you cut out the divider and it still will a little I believe.

The hy35 or he351 9cm spooled faster on my 2.3 so that might be an option?

What is the engine you are running?

 

I have a HE341 with the 9cm housing. Its crazy that you don't get boost creep with the factory gate. There are guys that drill out the hole for a 2.3 and get away with it, but they only leave enough meat to seal the flapper. I was thinking this was on a V8.

 

stock style manifold non divided. its a 225 slant six in my 66 plymouth valiant. the dsm guys have rpm for days. if i go over 5k theres a good chance my clutch will come apart so i keep it at or under 5k. will the hy35 housing bolt up to the hx?

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I should add, i welded the internal gate shut and have a large external on it now.

 

no creep.
http://youtu.be/L4dRGQJ41u8

 

Very cool setup I like different things. Yes the he351, hy35, hx35 are all T3 flanged and bolt up.

I would remove the flapper valve in the manifold and braze or weld the holes shut, it is causing a loss in flow to some degree and will hurt spool up.

 

its an old picture. had a china turbo on that took a crap on me. the flapper valve is out and welded shut. the setup had the valve broken off and the shaft was just sealing the holes.
here is the whole setup with the wh1c
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10.2:1 Afr's?

What kind of times/dyno numbers are you getting out of that set up?

 

im still working on the tune. i drilled the carb and tapped the exhaust to open the power valve. havent had a chance to play with the jetting yet. no dyno time yet and havent had it to the track with anything good to report. it just spins off the line in 1st and 2nd when it spools. when it does hook its pretty quick. i would guess mid to low 12's. i know thats not much to the v8 guys but my best n/a was a 17.7@62.

 

They are both great turbos. I think the H1C offers more of a choice regarding turbine and compressor wheel sizes. The weak link in the H1C is the thrust bearing. The HX35 is the successor to the H1C and when it was introduced Holset changed the thrust bearing design. However, there is a fix for the stock H1C thrust bearing. Take a look at this rebuild kit which includes an HX35 style thrust bearing machined to fit the H1C/H1E: http://www.ebay.com/itm/381319755730

 

The hy35 exhaust housing will not fit the hx. The hy has a v-band connection to the center section, the hx is bolted to cha. My build I am using an hy35 on a 232 v6 mustang. Seems like it would be better suited for you with the 9cm ( .63AR) housing

 

I had a blow-thru 2.3 Courier 30-ish years ago and learned a valuable/expensive lesson about carb-bonnet design and its effect on AFR, as a result of turbulence at the carb inlet. I'm not gonna go into all the details here - but suffice it to say that, IMHO, your Spectre-esque bonnet is gonna wind up having you chase your figurative "tail" all over the place with tune issues and MAY ultimately cause melted piston(s).

Therefore, I strongly urge you to spend a couple hundred bucks and get the only commercially-available blow-thru bonnet (that I'm aware of) that will eliminate the aforementioned "turbulent-air syndrome"......namely, one of the often-ostracized and maligned Paxton/Vortech Power Hats (with which I have absolutely no affiliation whatsoever):
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The only "downside" I've been able to determine is its greater propensity to "balloon", due to it's larger area. However, a friend of mine ran one to 20psi with no probs. If you intend to run more boost than that (or just wanna strengthen it against such a possible calamity), I suggest installing 3-4 "thru bolts" just outside the perimeter of the "carb hole".

BTW - I'm sure that many of the "regulars" from Carburetor Nation will have bad things to say about the Power Hat (even w/o any personal experience) - talking about how "fugly" it is or touting about never having any probs with their "Pro Hats" (et al). But....I would challenge ANY of 'em put their motors on a dyno for a longer-than-9-sec WOT pull, while taking individual EGT's from all exhaust ports (ASSuming the ability to record 'em before melting a piston or two). Flame suit ON! #ad