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Holley 6210 needle and seats

Discussion in 'Carbination Lounge' started by MasonsTurbos10, Aug 2, 2014.

  1. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Hey guys, so I have a holley 6210 series double pumper. Yes it's a spread bore. I did the hanger 18 mods on it. Nitrophyl floats as well. So the problems I'm having is flooding. Either the needle and seats (which are new and came in the rebuild kit) are bad or the floats (new nitrophyls) are not adjusted. Seems like we cant fix this problem with adjusting the floats. Before it was doing it with our gravity fed system to start and get the engine running before our fuel system. Now with the new fuel system, it's even worse. Anyone have any input on what to do?
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    and just another question- how is this brass piece suppose to go? Any preference?
     
  2. H.P.Ranch

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Take the needle and seats back out of the bowls and look closely where the needle touches the seat for trash such as teflon tape a piece of rubber hose that chipped off while slidding hose onto fitting or something that would not let the needle close all the way. After removing the needle and seat blow air back thru bowl where the needle and seat just came from I have found all sorts of things in carbs before. Then reassemble and test, you can leave the front bowl off and turn upside down and hold the float in the closed position while turning on the pump, then move the float up and down watching the needle and seat area to make sure the fuel is turning on and off.
     
  3. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Ok and is there anything or any tips on setting the floats?
     
  4. H.P.Ranch

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Level when upside down is a good starting point as you have yours in the pics. Not alot of room for float travel in the 6210 bowls. When you turn on the pump watch and see if fuel is being cut off if not adjust n/s down until fuel shuts off then you can remove bowl and see where the floats are when the fuel shuts off. You may have to trim bottom of float if not enough room for travel.
     
  5. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Alright thank you
     
  6. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    And there aren't any special springs that are needed for the nitrophyl floats?
     
  7. H.P.Ranch

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Are they still not closing off? You might have to bend float down just past n/s on float side to give it a little leverage to help in closing off. Don't know of any special springs.
     
  8. David Herbertsson

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
  9. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Thank you- finally works for you now?
     
  10. David Herbertsson

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Yes it does, but I have other problems:) But the carburetor isn't flooding anymore. I have some carb adjustments to do. Have only been up to about 8-9 psi so far.

    /David
     
  11. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    That around what I will be
     
  12. H.P.Ranch

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Hey David, what does grinding down the tabs do? I'm trying to see how it would help the n/s seal. Taking weight off so float rises easier?
     
  13. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    That around what I will be
     
  14. David Herbertsson

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Sometimes I wish english was my native language...:)
    When you put the little "wire" on the needle across the edges of the tab, the edges put strain on the "wire" and that little pressure is forcing the needle downward, away from the seat, and if the needle isn't moving "freely" it won't sit right in the seat. I hope this makes sense. I double checked this when i found it, and there was no other problem than this. You can turn the assembly upside down and blow in the inlet now and when you done the mod, and then it should seal by its own weight.

    / David
     
  15. H.P.Ranch

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2011
    Thanks David I understand now.
     
  16. David Herbertsson

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Good to hear. Masonsturbo10: I'm going to do some more testing and jetting this weekend, I can write my jetting and stuff here, maybe it can be of some help? I think our builds was quite a like? Mine is a 305 though. 67 mm Holset seems to be to small unfortunately, starts making boost around 2400 rpm.

    /David
     
  17. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Mine is a 350 with some tiny turbos from a plymouth 2.5l
    Let me know all the jetting you find out and I'll try getting this thing running right
     
  18. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Just like this?? [​IMG]#ad
     
  19. MasonsTurbos10

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Floats should adjusted with a 1/4" drill bit correct?
     
  20. David Herbertsson

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Yes, exactly! I have size 67 jets in the primary and 80 in the secondarys. 5,0 power valve in the front and blocked in the rear. 40's squirter in the front and 37's in the rear. I've drilled the pvcr's today so hopefully I can take out some jet it the secondarys since it's running a bit rich now. Perhaps that's something you can start with? /David
     
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