So my mustang is overheating immediately after boost.

I start my pass at about 178 degrees and once I have made the pass and pull off the hwy to the street the car shoots up to 230-240 (I shut it down before) then I wait for 30 minutes and the temps shoot down and I can drive it home.

Any ideas? 180 t stat (also does the same without it)
dual hayden puller fans (4 core aluminum radiator)
21lbs boost twin turbos 69mm
MLS head gaskets
No water in oil, no meal in oil car runs perfect on the street and around town only gets hot after boost.

 

Is your water pump electric by chance?

 

Is your fan pulling or blowing? In front of radiator or behind?

Never mind I see puller fans.

I had a problem something like this in my other car, as I leaned on the gas the temp would go up it was a combo from the voltage drop in the fans, fuel and water pump. Do you have a volt meter in the car?

 

wow guys thanks your amazing I do not have a voltmeter in the car how could I check it would my volts drop under load or something?

I have dual pullers on top of the radiator, the car does not lean out at all it actually runs at 11.0.

I dont have an electric water pump yet, should I get one? I was thinking this might help out

 

The electric water pump wont help with over heating, something else is causing it. I thought maybe if you had an electric water pump the voltage was dropping and was causing it not to pump which could make the car run hot. Since you have a belt driven pump this is likely not the problem as even with the voltage dropping the air passing through the radiator is enough to keep it cool, hence why older cars have clutches on the fans, they are not needed at higher speeds as much.

You could have popped a head gasket and be leaking water into the exhaust and not the oil, what heads are on the car? Some heads like the GT40's are known to lift under boost which could also be a problem. That would explain why it only gets hot under boost, you are lifting a head so its not cooling properly. This seems to be more likely then anything else I have thought of thus far. Do you have head studs? Which heads? Any idea what the heads are torqued to?

 

Ugh Im afraid you might be right I have been doing a bit of research and everyone who is experiencing what I am has been lifting heads. I have cheap heads the motor was a budget combo. I purchased the car with a 351W (supposed 393) I bought a set of bare procomps, and put a bunch of U.S stuff in them bigger valves springs retainers rockers and used some procomp studs. (Not 1/2inch). I dont remember what I torqued them to, want to say in the low 80's but its been a year. I also used MLS gaskets. It is my first experience with a turbo kit and I fabbed everything up here in the garage. I have been boosting the car on 8-10lbs but I upgraded my fuel system and decided to shoot for the waste-gates open which was 21lbs.

So I guess the question know is where to go? I dont want to invest money into a shortblock that might gernaid after I install better heads and 1/2 studs. The whole car is capable of putting down good power built rear 35spline strange everything brakes, powerglide trans brake j.w bell PTC converter

Im afraid these heads may not be worth a damn under boost even with 1/2 studs through them. Im thinking ill have to buy a dart block build and buy a real set of heads. but for the price of a ford dart block I can practically build a strong 454.

This car stuff is tuff business man :/ Maybe Ill look around for peoples motor combinations on the forum

 

If you have a 351 then you must use 1/2" studs as that is what size the bolt hole in the block are! Only the 302 is the smaller 3/8". It will feel as if they are getting tight but you will actually be only using the edge of the thread on the stud.

Once you replace with 1/2 studs you should be fine. If not you can find a good set of heads for 1500$ all over the net with a little searching and if you want a dart motor same thing they are all over the place complete packages for 2000-4000.

 

Well I definitely used studs so this means I do have 1/2 studs. DO you think some ARP studs would make a difference?

What would be a good set of heads to buy? Where should I look?

Im thinking I may junk my current heads, buy a good set of heads,MLS gaskets, and buy and ARP stud kit and ditch the procomp stud kit.

And keeping my block as it seems to be taking some abuse for now. What do you think?

 

21psi on pump gas? What is your timing? What compression? 21psi with too much timing and/or compression is a recipe for lifting the heads . 21psi is on the far edge of what I would consider safe on pump gas (ignoring all the other variables).

 

I would keep it all just put the correct head studs in and call it a day. No reason to junk parts not knowing if anything is even wrong with them. If you have the money to throw around a good set of trick flow or AFR's would be good. You can get these on most forums used for about 2k

 

Yes on pump gas 100 oct with snow performance methanol foger on the charge pipe. My timing was at 22 degrees at 21psi. Is that bad? Im really new at this turbo stuff I thought I would just build a turbo kit and go fast apparently It worked to well for the motor and tuner (myself) lol

 

Wow... I would think you torched a HG with that much timing and boost on pump gas.

 

I dont think so, 100 Octaine + meth and the car is only overheating under boost (spitting coolant out the reserve as if their was an air compressor pushing it)

I have no water in the oil at all, and the car does not over heat when I dont get into boost, I can drive it all around as long as I dont boost it with no issues.

I think 2 slow 5.0 hit it on the money as a lot of people seem to have experiences this. Now I need to figure out where to go from here.

 

Because you are lifting the heads. If you had composite gaskets, you would most certainly have blown a head gasket by now. The MLS are the only reason you haven't .

Detonation will lead to increased cylinder pressures, which can/will cause heads to lift. Even if it's not detonating, just too much cylinder pressure in general can cause it. Had issues with my stock headed LS2 at ~800 whp on 93 pump/alky at 20 psi and 20 degrees timing. Wasn't detonating (noticeably at least- knock sensor showed 0), but would lift the heads during a hard run until I pulled a few degrees of timing out of it. Exact symptoms (except not quite as hot)- would cruise all day long at ~170, but after a hard pull, the temps would creep up and not come back down for a LONG time. The next morning, I'd crack the radiator cap and there was still pressure in the system. Too much boost, too much timing, too much compression, poor cam choice, etc. all can lead to high cylinder pressures. You do not have the best heads in the world, but there are several people going fast enough on them to show they work. You should consider yourself lucky- those heads lifting may be the only "fuse" keeping your bottom end together . I'm no expert compared to many here, but have been around enough turbo cars to see it happen many times .

 

But where do I go from here? What is salvageable? Block? Heads? even if I have to lower the boost while I build a dart or something lol

 

I'd drop to like 15psi and see what happens.

 

Ive dropped to 6psi and it still overheats lol Im going to have to do something with the heads block or gaskets just not sure what I can salvage or try to salvage or what exactly typically happens in these events

 

Car craft magazine had a budget 5.0 heads article a month or two ago. In the article they had a little side note about how the Pro-Comp heads should not be used with MLS head gaskets. The heads have notches that keep the gasket from sealing properly. Maybe your issue? You can see the notches in the deck surface here;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-302-351...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a3e3e813&vxp=mtr

Jess

 

Check your intake gaskets as well, boost can get by them and push air into the system.

Sounds like you at least need to tear into it and pull the heads. You should be able to see where it's pushed past the gaskets.

 

I guess Im going to have to tear into it maybe this weekend when I dont have school, Im thinking about scrapping the whole car now. I cant afford to keep building a race car its burning holes in my pockets lol built rear end tubular everything suspension twin turbo fuel system glide lol

very discouraged :/