Please see my sig at the bottom for motor details. Now for some history on the motor. Pulled a salvage motor from the yard back in 95 or 96, fresh bore .030 over, hyper pistons, arp rod and crank bolts, line honed, recondition rods ,crank turned .010 under, new bearings and have slowly added parts until it wound up at the current combo you see below. Since the last cam swap it sees 6200 to 6400 rpms for the last few seasons. Over the years I couldnt have put too many miles on it, 500 to 1000 miles a year but they have not been easy miles needless to say.

This spring I did a custom turbo and have been keeping it at 5psi. Right out of the gate I had some oil spraying issues, i replaced intake gasket but it is still leaking from manifold and valve covers even after changing them. Pretty certin I am getting too much pressure in my crankcase I am guessing due to ring blow by or ring land damage. Not sure if the turbo setup and detonation caused it or if the motor was just getting worn out. Well I planed on using the motor to pratice on and build up another with forged slugs so it is a learning experience for me. In the process I did get the tune worked out pretty well so on the next motor I should be starting out with a close tune.

Results: 1=178 3=175 5=98 7=170 2=170 4=162 6=172 8=160 I put a little oil in the #5 bore and re-ran test and it rose to 108psi. The oil had no coolant in it and the coolant has no oil in it. Do you think that piston is trashed, stuck ring, broken ring land, valve issue? I am pretty sure my lash is set right. The pug looked nice and tan so I know it was firing. I dont have the equipment to do a leak down test. Car runs fine and makes power but it is like whale shooting oil out the blowhole and misting up my windshied (no hood).

 

Sounds like you might have some collapsed rings in that hole.

 

No PVC ? I had a similar problem spraying oil, I eliminated pvc no more problem. Incorrect valve lash would effect
compression but not the oil geyser. I would at least pull that head and #5 rod and piston for inspection before further
damage takes out your block etc.

 

No plans on driving the car any longer until it gets torn down. I moved the PVC line from the bottom plate of the carb to the inlet tube in front of the turbo and plugged the carb fitting. So as it went into boost it should have seen a slight vaccuum drop to help evacuate the crank case. Apperently not nearly enough to compensate for the blow by. Does the way I have my PVC setup sound correct? Should I have ditched the PVC and just run breathers on both valve covers.

 

No pcv, just breathers. I have an e vac on mine going into the down pipe under the car.

 

How does that work? Use exhaust energy to pull from the crank case? How is it plummed in? Does that ever pull oil right into your exhaust system?

 

Seems to work pretty well. Yes. Like you would with headers but into a single dp. Not that I know of.

 

my guess is a burned valve.... when adding oil doens't increase a bunch it is almost never a ring problem.

 

Pull the rockers off that hole and jam in the compression tester hose hooked to your air compressor. Listen out the exhaust and open the throttle and listen in there too. Its an easy way to find where the air is going. If its all coming out of the crankcase the rings are shot.

 

X2 on trbo355, if your exhaust valve and or seat is trashed you'll hear it all coming out the exhaust. Pull out your phx and if you feel it/ hear coming out the valve cover you'll know its getting by the piston.

 

Ok, I will give that a whirl.

 

Phx=pvc, my spellcheck knows words I dont