I've had a bit of a setback the last week or so but I plan on moving Bucket List from the garage to the shop today. Once in the shop,this is the order I am starting with, I think it is pretty straight forward but please let me know if I am missing anything;

1. Remove the hood
2. Remove the entire exhaust
3. Install the headers
4. figure out turbo placement and what pipes I'll need, then order materials.

That's it for stage 1. Has anyone ever used PVC pipe and fittings to mock up turbo placement and exhaust? I am usually not very good with documenting my work. I get so busy doing I forget all about recording. This time I ordered a go pro and will set it up to document my build as it progresses. Hopefully you all can catch any screwups and correct me as I go along.

 

Since I am here I've got a quick question. Are their any options for the oil return lines that done include removing the engine to get the pan off and weld a bung on? Small Block Chevy?

 

You can punch the pan rather than drill it then weld your bung on.

I don't know why PVC wouldn't work. When doing any exhaust work I usually just cut exhaust tube, place it and masking tape around to hold it together until I am happy with whats going on with the whole system, it lets me know when I need a hangar and I can tack those in as I go. Its much easier to remove the tape than it is to grind tacks off multiple locations. Then tack each tube section in a few places per tube and move the whole mess to the bench. When I did my turbo setup the last time I built the turbo to engine mounts and then just connected the manifolds to the turbo. Try to get a slip fit or flex joint in between banks, but make sure to use the kind with the baffled inner, not the woven inner.

 

I can't see using PVC for mock up. Just adds an unneeded step,IMO. It's not hard to see/visualize how to fab it, and even after PVC mock up the final fitting will have to be done with whatever metal tubing you're using anyway. I'd just do it in metal the first time.

 

I generally first decide a general area that I want the turbo to sit. Front to back or side to side. Usually where I want to route the exhaust will dictate the general direction. Once I have the turbo about where I want it, I then start scoping out the downpipe(s). I want to make sure the turbo is facing in a way that the DP can get out where I want to. ONce that's set, I will try to lock the turbo down in that spot. Using mounts, tape, straps, whatever. Once the turbo location is set then I look at feeding it. That's usually the easy part. Just pipe of to the turbo, make or buy a merge, and start welding.

 

I just finished building my first hot side, and down pipe.
I mocked up where I wanted the turbo grabbed some pipe bends and before you know it things start coming together.
I think the PVC will just add another step and not really be of any help.
Just take your time and try to think 2-3 moves ahead!
Another idea is to drain the turbo into your fuel pump block off, if your turbo ends up being on that side of the engine, and if you have a fuel pump block off!

 

One of my biggest dilemma's is that I do not have a Tig welder, and even if I did I am not supposed to be within arms reach of an arc. My limited research indicates that with the proper gas and wire I can use my Mig welder to tack things together. I think I can get away with just tacking. Does anyone here have any experience using a small mig machine to weld stainless or aluminum?

 

Stainless is easy with a mig. With aluminum, make a few alignment marks, and tape it with some good masking tape until you get it to the weld shop. As far a turbo location, i like to find the spot i want it, and mount the flange (temp or permanent) and build to the flange.

 

Just use MS and you won't need to TIG anything. For the cold side, you can likely tie it all together with couplers and not need to do any welding, especially true if you're doing a BT without an IC.

 

You can run tri-mix gas and 309l or 309lsi wire with a coat of solar flux on the inside to tack up your SS stuff. Welding thin aluminum with a mig is a bit of a trick, you really want a spool gun and need a welder capable of running reverse polarity. I like disney's idea about using couplers for the cold side.

 

Disney, what did you mean by using "MS"? I believe the cold side is going to be simple if I can locate the turbos correctly. My intention is to come off of the headers and locate the turbos in the area n front of the PS pump and alternator. If I can work that out the cold side will be east using silicone couplers.

 

Draining to the fuel block off is a possibility, and would allow me to do the install without removing the engine. Are their pros and cons to this? I've never heard of anyone plumbing return lines there, what are everyones thoughts on this?

 

Mild Steel. Cheaper, easy to fab, looks same as SS once it's wrapped or coated...

I've never heard of anyone having issues with draining to fuel pump mount/block off. Fairly common I think.

 

Thanks, I got the left side header mounted last night, I've found I can only work for a short while because of the other issues so this may take more effort than I thought. There are two other things I've just started looking into as well but since you all have been so helpful I'll ask; I'll need to fab up a new upper radiator hose using couplers and thin wall aluminum pipe. Are the silicone couplers like used in the cold side suitable for that? Second, if all fits well the turbo discharge will route out of the fender in front of the tires. At most the exhaust pipe will be about 16" long. Is it possible to put a muffler in this, is it even needed?

 

The stuff i've used for radiator couplers was more robust. Closer to "Stick Hose".

There are some pretty small mufflers that can probably fit. Whether it's needed or not is entirely up to you.

 

My car was just too loud in my neighborhood so I put a straight through bullet style muffler.
I have seen some super small mufflers only about 10" long that actually do a lot!

 

I found one site coneeng.com that sells components to "build your own" that shows potential. As far as the radiator hoses a visit to NAPA should be able to fill my needs.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/h... hose (straight) - heavy duty (2-ply),1001134

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/h...ant hose,coolant hose (molded) - silicone,365