ok here is the issue and specs

car starts and runs great rev in neutral all sound and feels great till it hits 4500 it hits a wall like a rev limiter and if i peg the throttle it will just stay there.
now driving it will do the same thing even under boost.
here are the specs and things i have done and changed
397 stroker lt1
afr 210 #1101 heads
custom comp solid roller turbo cam and lifters
88mm turbo
th400 jw converter (too tight)
fast xfi 2.0
fast xim
ls7 coils
tr7 plugs gap .29

ok first when i built the car it had a billet optispark and msd dig 6 and coil with the fast xfi and this was an issue from day 1 so i sent everything electrical back to each company to have them check to make sure all was up to working spec and everyhting was so fast tech support suggested it was a interference issue between fast and msd ect.
so with there suggestion i went and upgraded to the xim box and ls7 coils and the fast crank pickup setup and i purchased a cam sensor kit from efi connections.
well after alot of work it still had the same exact issue! so i contacted brian macy aka turbonova and he built me an opti for just cam signal and i replaced and same issue so that is off the list also below is all the other things i did
checked valve springs and measured height and shimmed where was needed to all match.
changed wires and spark plugs and gaps.changed coils.
changed valve train to t&d shaft rockers.
checked tune and asked a tunner to look over my working tune.
plenty of fuel actually runs very rich!

checked and re checked my lash.
theres probably more i just can think of everything right now but any suggestions i would be greatful cause im at a loss and spent so much time and money also would the torque converter possible be too tight to create this issue? on a good note the car runs great and pulls great till it hits 4500 lol
thanks everyone ok here is the issue and specs

car starts and runs great rev in neutral all sound and feels great till it hits 4500 it hits a wall like a rev limiter and if i peg the throttle it will just stay there.
now driving it will do the same thing even under boost.
here are the specs and things i have done and changed
397 stroker lt1
afr 210 #1101 heads
custom comp solid roller turbo cam and lifters
88mm turbo
th400 jw converter (too tight)
fast xfi 2.0
fast xim
ls7 coils
tr7 plugs gap .29

ok first when i built the car it had a billet optispark and msd dig 6 and coil with the fast xfi and this was an issue from day 1 so i sent everything electrical back to each company to have them check to make sure all was up to working spec and everything was so fast tech support suggested it was a interference issue between fast and msd ect.
so with there suggestion i went and upgraded to the xim box and ls7 coils and the fast crank pickup setup and i purchased a cam sensor kit from efi connections.
well after alot of work it still had the same exact issue! so brian macy aka turbonova built me an opti for just cam signal and i replaced and same issue so that is off the list also below is all the other things i did
checked valve springs and measured height and shimmed where was needed to all match.
changed wires and spark plugs and gaps.changed coils.
changed valve train to t&d shaft rockers.
checked tune and asked a tuner to look over my working tune.
plenty of fuel actually runs very rich!

checked and re checked my lash.
there's probably more i just can think of everything right now but any suggestions i would be grateful cause im at a loss and spent so much time and money also would the torque converter possible be too tight to create this issue? on a good note the car runs great and pulls great till it hits 4500 lol
thanks everyone

 

Assuming its the electronics fault seems off base to me. A good thing to check, but definitely not the whole system. Places I would go (not necessecarily in order of difficulty) would be:

-Are you using a chambered muffler like a Flowmaster? If so they are legendarily horrible for flow and you could be choking.
-Put a timing tape on your damper if it doesn't have timing marks, and use a timing light to validate that your timing is what your ECU says it is. Weird things have been known to happen here. It goes back to not trusting your electronics.
-Excessive back pressure within your turbine. You're getting near 400 CID and if the turbo is sized for 350 CID it could be a problem in extreme cases.
-Validate your valve spring pressure. Pull at least 1 or 2 sets off, then measure them and make sure they are the springs you think they are
-Do a compression check and see what your cranking pressure is.
-Validate cam timing. This is especially important if you're getting off readings on the comp check. but the readings are even.

 

no muffler its a 5" to a 3.5" down pipe about 3.5 ' long
cam timing is validated i do have a pointer and i have checked with a light
did a compression test all good as well

 

How rich? To rich will do what you are describing.

 

8

Very very rich 160lb injectors it's an e85 setup for 1k hp and only running 93 right now I need I dyno tune but wanted to get it reving before I spend the dyno time $250 hr and tuner wants same per hr so it 500 minimum

 

Well the car and fuel system is setup for large boost and e85 but the basic tune in the car now is for 93 done by cal hartline but with these 160lb injectors they need a dyno or driving with a tuner at hand to setup the inj offset which I personally don't know much on and can't do yet that's 1 reason why it's pig rich

 

The injectors are f.a.s.t

 

The injector offset is setup before driving. The Fast 160# injector offset comes with the software.

When you say very rich. What is the Air Fuel Ratio? Or Lambda number?

 

Pull plugs and do cuts if you can. If you're fat past 4500 you'll find out the insulator that's farther away from the tip is sooty and the stuff near the tip is fairly well colored.

Cam timing is done at install time and not done by a timing light. If ignition timing is checked, that's a good thing. As said I'd check the whole curve not just the base timing though.

Did you ever make any runs and have Cal tweak it? IMO that's where I'd go instead of trying to beat on it with a base tune.

 

It does run very fat even though the a/f is at roughly 12.6 I wondered if the 02 was working properly because it's so rich it burns and chokes ya lol as far as cuting the plug I never done so but I can always Google and attempt to do so and cal never seen the car on the dyno because of the cost he's 70 miles away and his rate and dyno rate is very costly I wanted to get bugs worked out so I don't drop a grand or 1500 and can't fix the issue. He did look over my tune and a data log and couldn't come up with anything but maybe a 4-7 swap on the cam by mistake but I double checked and also just swapped wires to see and it ran like crap so I knew it wasn't that.

 

Sounds just like what 94cobRa was having issues with, he pulled fuel gradually and the problem went away.

 

Hmmm can you tell me more maybe in a pm? Do you have a vid of what it was doing?

 

Read the last 5 or 6 pages of his build thread for details.

 

Where are you located? Hartline wouldn't work on my car because he couldn't plug into a computer, and he is an hour from me. I have someone here who did my car.

 

I'm south of him in port st. Lucie it's a distance

 

What's your acceleration enrichment settings right now? Not sure about how to pull that with an XFI box, but that's where I'd be looking. Get the car to run well without getting into it heavily (If you get into it and you're rich with no AE you're WAY rich) then start adding AE. On a Megasquirt it's added as a function of the injector pulse width. It's plausible that it's too large based on that. I ran into an issue with this in the past. Best to get it running right with zero AE then get the AE figured out.

 

I'm in psl as well