Hi guys,
Im new to the turbo world.
I did a M90 supercharger on my 6cyl Ford Explorer, but ran in to issues as I couldn't fit an intercooler in between the motor and supercharger. This is just info so everyone here knows that I already understand I need Injectors, Maf, fuel pump, tuning, etc.

I have decided to go rear mount, as I can't easily re-locate the battery to the back cab area of my truck as I'm concerned about fumes, and safety of a battery inside the cabin.

The motor is a stock 5.0 motor with 1.6 rockers installed and an opened up exhaust.
I'll be keeping the muffler, and the turbo will be going where the spare tire was. This should keep the truck really quiet (Theres a drone to it right now, so I'm looking forward to it being quieter.

Turbo specs:
4inch cold inlet, 2.5 inch outlet 72mm turbine got the f1-68 compressor blade, 3 inch exhaust outlet, t4, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached.

So, here we go.

First, the victim and the turbo.

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Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/.../Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler.

I'm going to go 2" cold side piping as far as I can. Entering the intercooler (Mounted on the frame, under the truck) I'll have to go to 3", then exit the intercooler with another 2 foot 3 inch pipe with the MAF welded in to the pipe in the middle ( This will make sure the air is not turbulent and allow for more stable tuning). After the 3" tubing after the intercooler, Im going to go back to 2: tubing to go thru the wheel well to the engine bay. once up in the engine bay, I'll go to 2 1/2" for the blow off valve, and finally up to 3" for inlet to my stock Throttle body.

60 lb injectors will be used, and a front mount radiator for the intercooler. Here's a pic of the intercooler.
Im planning on keeping around 6-8lbs boost until/if I decide to replace the motor.

Gears are 373's, and the truck is an AWD. I might break that and have to go with a beefier transfer case, we will see how it goes.

I'll be installing a wideband o2, and SCT. Tuning will be done remotely via logging, and emailing my tuner the logs. This worked very well with my other M90 build.

I'm open to all suggestions for anything I have forgotten. This is my first attempt at something like this, so all suggestions appreciated.

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ok, I was just reading another post where a guy was given all kinds of advice to not have a muffler pre turbo on his remote mount setup. The op didn't post the results. I wish he would have.

Anyway, I'll take the advice here and get rid of that muffler. I'll have to see if the exhaust shop will remove the last 2 cats for me (2 have been removed already). My tuner can take the two post cat o2 sensors out of the tune so I wont see the check engine light coming on from this.

 

I'm guessing I'm on the right path for a rear mount as there's no comments.
Being new to turbo, I do have a question though....

Since the turbo is being mounted at the rear, there's lots of cold side piping 'volume'. Im using an air/water intercooler to keep this volume down.

So, in interests of keeping that volume down, should I stick with 2 inch piping until just before the throttle body? I could go 2 inch, then 2 1/2 inch in to the bov, then expand to 3 inch all right at the throttle body. Thoughts anyone?

I would like to keep lag to a minimum and start to build a pound or two boost by at least 2500 rpm.

 

Why would you be concerned about the battery inside the car? All you need is a sealed battery box that you can vent through your floor or get a battery that is designed for pass compartment mounting like from a Cadillac,their under the seat.mercedes & BMW mount theirs in the trunk as well as the thunderbirds too. I think it's an STS rear mount kit that dumps the returned oil from the scavenger pump into a fitting that goes thru the oil cap. Or maybe a fitting installed into the valve cover for an oil return. Just thinking out loud.

 

I really struggled with the idea of attempting to do a front mount. I've been reading how everyone here really does not like rear mount setups (I made the final decision before finding this forum).
I guess the reasons are:
1. Room-Although your right, that could be overcome. Move the battery to the back of the truck and move the washer fluid/overflow to where the battery was. That would free up one side of the truck (Mostly anyway) once the factory air box came out.
2. Oil return- the 4x4 is an issue as there is no way to get at the pan to tap a hole up high enough for natural drain-This is a big one for me.
3. Lack of any welding skills - Id be taking the turbo to an exhaust shop to have the hot side done. This is a big issue for me.
4. This is my daily driver, and I can only take it out of service to work on it the odd weekend.
5. I'm already committed to this with all the stuff I've been buying.

So, I decided my first turbo build would be rear mount. The oil feed is 4an from the oil pressure sending unit(Like everyone's) except with a 1 way valve that takes approx. 2lbs pressure to open it to prevent draining in to the turbo when the trucks not running.
Oil drain is 10an to the pump (Pump mounted low, at or below turbo drain level) in to a check valve to prevent oil draining in to the turbo and then to 6an all the way up to the oil cap with a quick disconnect on the cap (I think the quick disconnect is going to work really well).

I think the 2 real issues to overcome are cold side volume, and oil. I might have a good look on ebay for a pump timer, but I think the two valves should keep oil from draining back in to the turbo once the motor is shut off. I'm not to concerned about the air filter, as I can build a box around it pretty easily. Of course, the other downside to this build is that the spare tire is gone, unless it goes inside the truck or build a pare tire carrier at the rear.

I will give this a go, and I'm really hoping the results will be ok. Consider this practice and learning. I will be looking for a summer project car after this is completed on my explorer as we all know that no matter what I do, it will never be 'fast'. If I could get 450hp to the ground and have torque building somewhere around 2000-2500 I'd be extremely happy and call it a huge success if it is a reliable build.

Since I'm new to the turbo world I am already learning tons. I'm already really looking forward to getting a welder and a car that I can do the hot side on with the turbo(s) being front mounted. First things first though. I need to think thru my current project.

 

You had better plan on more than a weekend to get the thing up and running.

If you have enough capacity(small tank or large hose) after the turbo you won't have to mess with the 2psi valve or turbo timer, not that either is a bad idea though.

In your case I would forget the A/W intercooler for now, sounds like you just need to get something up and running. Add it or water and meth injection at a later date. I would use 2" heavy wall pipes into 2 1/2" to your turbo, 2 1/2" up to the motor. Consider having them coated or wrapping them. Position the turbo so that you have room to have a downpipe long enough for a wide band to function correctly in, 2' or so. WB will need to be after the turbo

Also I would try to keep the charge pipe from changing sizes so much, pick a size and stick with it.

Jess

 

I use 3/16" brake line to my turbo, 10 an(with a vent to keep from pulling oil out of the turbo) to a E-bay gear pump, 3/8" line back up to my motor. Works good so far.

Jess

 

It does come back to that vent on the return side before the pump more often than not. I'll find a small catch can with a vent on top that I can plumb in.

Thanks. Very helpful.

 

I'll re-think how I plumb the cold side. Thanks for the tip on the wideband being after the turbo. I have a innovate wideband ill wire in to my sct device for tuning,it solved nds like ill need to extend some wires.

The pro-m slot maf is another issue. My tuner says it needs to go in a 3" pipe, and have at least 9" of straight 3" piping on either side of it. Apparently the air will be turbulent otherwise, and more difficult to tune. Finding a spot to run 18" of straight 3" pipe isn't easy. It will have to be under the truck.

I dont see the intercooler being an issue as at this point I don't see installing the turbo till early spring. This gives me time to install the fuel pump, and get the intercooler roughed in (a bracket on the frame rail) and the radiator/pump installed. This should make it quick to attach the cold side to it.
I'll also already have the intercooler to throttle body piping pre fabricated and ready to go. It's easy to take part of my truck apart over a weekend, do pre planning and fitting, then put the stock pieces back together for Monday. We will see how that goes.

The supercharger build had its challenges, and I am finding that going turbo has its own set of challenges.

 

Any updates?

 

Not really.
I picked up a front radiator that will fit better up front with the intercooler. It looks like a pretty straight forward install with a few easy brackets.

I have a guy welding me up a bracket for my intercooler to mount it to my frame rail. I told him 'no rush', so he's not rushing. I'll have to swing by and see if he can move it up on the priority list for me.

My plan is to get the air/water intercooler system working and just capped off. Then, I'll finish roughing in the cold side on a different weekend.

I am only waiting on a few silicone joiners off ebay, and I'll have everything.

I expect to have all the roughing in done, and off to the exhaust shop in early spring so they can weld up the hot side for me.
Then I'll re-install the cold side with the 60lb injectors and slot maf, upload a base tune, and hope like he** there's no surprises.

Everythings covered I think. All parts, flanges, etc.

Its interesting all the different rear mount setups out there, and what worked for one guy didn't work for another. The big deal is oiling. I was back and fourth with another guy that said he installed a vent T'd off in between his oil exit from the turbo anf his scavenge pump. He removed it later as it was causing issues for him. He did have the pump as the lowest part of the oil return, and within 2 feet of the turbo also. strange. I guess there is no way to be 100% certain you will nail it perfectly the first time.

Once I can get rolling on the intercooler setup, I'll post pics.

 

The fact you use the term "roughing in", do you work in construction?

I'm planning on remote turbo'ing my 4Runner. I guess it's more of a mid mount. I've got space where the down pipe off the manifolds bolt to the cat. Right now I'm piecing together how the turbine bolts to the exhaust. It's interesting to read other people's SUV turbo builds.

 

Nope, not in construction.
Its just that this is my daily driver, so All the prep work will be done on weekends.
This means that the cold side under the hood will be built, and then taken back off until the final install.

The plan is to run the cold side up by the passenger wheel well.

How much boost are you looking at on your 4-Runner? Im just curious as I have no idea how you would do the tuning once your over a few pounds boost and have to worry about air metering, injectors, etc.

 

I'm planning on running 7psi of boost. For tuning I plan on using 2 steps colder plugs and premium gas. Toyota offered a dealer option roots style TRD supercharger which boosted to 7psi. I don't think the stock ECU will have any issues seeing boost. Turbo should hopefully provide lower intake temps than the TRD blower, so that should help prevent detonation as well.

This is my first turbo project, so I'm excited to see how this turns out. I've got a Garrett T3/T4 57 trim that I plan on using, along with a Tial 44mm wastegate. God knows this Toyota 5vzfe (3.4L V6) engine with only 190hp needs a boost moving this SUV. It's a great engine, but underpowered in what it's being used for.

Keep updating your progress, I'd like to see it. I'll start a thread of my own once I get a little further along with procuring parts and test fitting. This 4Runner is my daily driver as well, so weekends are the only time I get to make progress (when my wife doesn't have the "honey-do" list hanging over me).

 

Any updates?

 

Nope, nothing fun at least. I think I have everything though.
Frame rail mount is done for the intercooler.
Upgraded aeromotive fuel pump is in with 3/8 braided to a high flow fuel filter. Im stock from the filter forward. I did this so if I have to upgrade the fuel lines, at least I don't have to drop the tank again.

I just upgraded my AllWheelDrive transfer case to a F-150 case. In the process, the installed rear driveshaft was fitted with high strength U joints. It has a way better chance of surviving the extra horsepower. I was told the original case was only good for about 300 hp. I now have true 2wd and true 4x4.

Next step is to install the intercooler, coolant lines, radiator, and pump. Hopefully some of it gets done this weekend.

 

I think you are wrong. You need to do something to control fuel and timing even. WWith just 7psi

 

I'll play it by ear and see how it goes. Not planning on running crazy boost, just 7psi, which the stock blower puts out. ECM already knows what to do when it sees boost. If I get pinging issues, I've got a water / methanol kit sitting in a box ready to install.

That being said, I know of four other 4Runner owners who have done rear mounted turbos, and I haven't heard any issues with pinging / knocking in any of their build threads. I'll watch AFRs on my mine to be safe, which any boosted application should.

 

Weathers finally warming up (Not freezing my a$$ off in the garage).

I picked up some used headers that will fit my engine bay, so they are going in this weekend. I can't confirm that this is a good thing for a rear mount turbo, but definitely can't be bad.
Most front mount setups are fabricated with headers rather than factory manifolds, so in they go. Maybe out of boost they help scavenging.

I have 99% of the parts, I just need to get started on the fabrication. Im looking forward to getting back in the garage and getting this moving.