After reading some of the threads on water/meth set ups and injection I though I would share the kit I made a few years ago, This kit will be running on my current build with some upgrades to the failsafes and controls.

Back story and where the idea came from.
My 2 door car runs an expensive Hydramist/Aquamist injection kit. The 4door was a no budget leftover parts build. But I wanted to run water meth on the car. But could not afford an expensive unreliable sureflow pump (180$ us = 300$cnd after exchange, customs and shipping).
Some say they are reliable but the ones on the Hydramist system are known to overheat in the trunk and die (Running a small 12V ECU fan from a outside vent that runs when the pump is on to cool it in the 2door).

Searching the interned I found someone using a plumbing water/air bladder tank to prevent water from knocking in pipes. He would put the water in one port and then pressurize the tank with air. As the system delivered water injection the supply pressure dropped, not a good system but it's a pump less system.
Found a guy in Australia using boost pressure to pressurize his water tank, he was spraying pre turbo using a 200$ paint gun nozzle, his kit is rising rate 1:1 of course.

I wanted a constant pressure flow rate but did not want to use a 200$ nozzle or spray pre turbo.
I decided a pressurized system using an air pump was the best setup.

I have a bunch of stuff from industrial building salvage, including misting nozzles from an air scrubber system and 12V solenoid valves from building control system, braded stainless core hoses, fittings, tanks, building control pressure switches, wire, relays, switches...

The only things required would be a 12V permanent mount air pump and a stainless steel float level sensor.
I tested the misting nozzles for pattern a looked up there flow rate.
I tested the 12V solenoid valves by wiring them to the cars 12v power so they where on and left them under the hood on a hot day for a good 10minute drive and 5more minutes while engine temps get their highest, they didn't over heat and the seals didn't melt without fluid cooling them, I looked up the type of material in the valves to make sure they can handle methylhydrate. Everything was a go.

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The system uses 3 tanks, a 250ml air tank that runs to an air manifold (air pressure gauge and quick connect for pumping tires) an adjustable compressor regulator with pressure relieve valve and compressor hose pressure release valve.
The air goes into the top of the middle tank which 2 gallon is filled with 51/49 water meth mix. The pick up tube runs to the bottom of the tank bellow the level float.and delivers fluid to the adjustable brass water pressure bolted in front of it.
The pressure regulator delivers set pressure liquid to the 750ml collector tank on the left and to the braided lines.
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The misting nozzles are rated 60CC at 66psi, but can be run it higher or lower pressures and flow accordingly.

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The pump is the best cheapest pump I can find, it delivers about the same cfm as the expensive entry level air ride suspension pumps and has a max run time of 15 or 25minutes (can't recall) it will fill a completely flat 225/50/16 tire in just over 30 seconds.
It pressurizes the air and main tank between 100- 125 psi on/off in a couple of seconds and even when on the gas using water injection a lot only comes on for a few seconds every couple days.

The original system used a set of adjustable Johnson control valve for buildings they where adjustable from 0-15psi, because I need water only after 21psi I used a pressure control valve to bump the control (lower supply pressure) by 8psi. Since then I have downgraded (quality) to chinese adjustable pressure switches on an air manifold.

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They are set for 18, 23 and 26psi and operated 3stages of injection. Stage 1 before the intercooler, stage 2 after the intercooler and stage 3 just before the throttle body.
Because of the boost stage settings of 15, 21 and 30 psi and the fact boost is instant the system only has 2 stages of meth injection stage 2 boost uses stage 1 injection, stage 3boost uses all three stages of injection.

The water meth injection system was simple and worked very well. But how could I make it 1000 times more complicated and tie in with every device installed on the car making dozens of simple things one giant headache.
Here is how:

The system is turned on (pump) by a toggle switch I call main.
Water injection (boost control) is turned on by a second switch. This switch activates a boost controller that is a modified factory turbo solenoid valve used by the ECU to lower boost at low and high rmp's and during knock. The boost controller is set to increase boost by 9psi over manual boost. Because I don't need
30psi in second gear I wanted a toggle switch for boost control, because I didn't want to reach for a toggle under acceleration I wanted a shift knob with an on off button, because I could only find momentary switches for nos on shift knobs I decided to make my own.

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Because the angle was awkward I made a custom adjustable shift rod. Yes it did take great skill and accuracy to hand drill the hole for the wire to meet up perfectly with the button hole.
I the center I took a 3/8 threaded threaded rod extender, drilled it and threaded it to the shift rod thread pitch, then round the shape off until it was 95% round, threaded it onto the shift rod tight, coated it in a thin layer of epoxy and pressed it into the shift knob.

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The shift knob is angled so the palm sits against it properly and the tip of the knob is at the center of the shift rod fulcrum point.

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This is "bench" testing in the old version of the car I'm building, It will have a blue interior.

Because I wanted control over first gear boost I made a hall sensor magnetic pick up using some metal, a brake fluid hall level sensor and a couple of earth magnets (in retrospect the magnets should be on the shifter rod and the wired sensor should be on the assembly). The hall sensor and magnets are completely adjustable and removable. The hall sensor is positioned to only be affected by the magnets in 1st gear, trough a 3 way toggle switch and relays the sensor controls another modified factory turbo solenoid (no longer adjustable ) 3port solenoid to a just opened or closed 2 port, this one shuts of waste gate boost signal to the manual in dash boost controller and water meth boost controller leaving boost at the adjustable waste gate setting (15psi).
The toggle settings are :
Launch- Boost is waste gate pressure in 1st gear and the solenoid is shut until the car is shifted into neutral or any other gear.
Off- The solenoid valve is opened and boost is regulated by the in dash manual boost controller and water meth boost controller.
Stage 1- The valve stays shut, ignores the shifter hall sensor and boost is wastegate only in every gear.


The boost control runs 4 LED status lights, Launch, stage 1, stage 2, stage 3.
-When launch is selected launch stays lit all the time, when in first gear stage 1 is also lit, when shifting out of 1st stage 1 led turns of and stage 2 or 3 led turn on depending on the shifter button position.
- when of is selected the 2nd or 3rd stage boost light will be on depending on selection and the launch light is off (Street).
-When stage 1 is selected launch LED is of stage 1 LED stays on all the time.
The toggle is dp/dt with no leds, that allows me to sent 2 different in signals to 4 different out signals depending on settings.

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The water meth system has 3 indicator LEDs. stage 1,2,3, they are triggered by the ground signal from the 3 adjustable pressure switches and 3 more brake fluid hall sensors installed on the injection solenoid valves.

The 3 way toggles and MSD knobs:
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The toggle switches had the right size clips but the faces weren't designed to be recessed and required cutting, I made two 1/4" deep rectangular metal spacers that go on the backs of the toggles to move the 1/4" out (that's the most the retaining "clips" would allow).

I chopped up the factory adjustable suspension control box and installed the MSD dials. They just fit:

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MSD with decal templates and different knobs:
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Failsafes shut down the stage 3 water/meth boost control solenoid if tank pressure is low or if the level is low I haven't figure out how to monitor fluid flow in the lines on a budget or get the solenoid to shut down based on pressure switch and hall sensor signals but I have figured out how to rum lean boost cut using the innovate motorsports widebands programmable wideband signal auxiliary 0-5 v wire, it is set to 0 volts below X afr (10.8) and 5v above that afr (10.8) this signal goes to an adjustable pressure switch that is only "on" in the water meth boost range, so if above Y boost afrs are above X than the 5v wideband signal cuts a relay nc signal and shuts down the water meth boost relay lowering boost when afr are to lean.

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because I am using the LC1 aux 2 signal for boost control I had to run an XD-16 gauge that plugs in using the LC1 stereo jack, adjusting the aux 2 signal of the LC1 does not affect the actual wideband readings and the only place to pick them up is the stereo jack and the only gauge that connects to the stereo jack is the XD-16, I had one in the basement. The LC1 aux 1 signal could programmed and used to signal boost cut, but I use it as the ECU's narrow band sensor, this way I can program the signal the ecu gets from the narrow band and have full control of the factory computer and injectors A/F ratio from idle to 3000rpm when the ecu is in closed loop mode.
Because the XD-16 bezel is so big and doesn't match the autometer gauges and I want boost and air fuel next to each other I modified the gauge bezel and customized it to look more like the autometers.

Before:
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After:
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I used an aluminum bezel from a junk gauge, cut a piece of plexiglass and installed it's color selection button on to of the XD-16 mode selection button, I threaded the the plexiglass plate to use m2 screws, milled one of the bezels and mounted the gauge through the gauge plate.
This is not the final order of the gauges, the oil pressure gauge is in the drivers vent, the passenger vent holds the modified building temp gauge I use as an IAT gauge and sensor before the TB.
The 4th gauge in the bezel will be a useless, annoying autometer D-pic gauge, although it's not a gauge I often use or need to monitor, it is impractical to operate in the driver or passenger vent, I have a three position mini drag switch for it 1- normal, 2 dimmed lights, 3 off. My birth mom bought it for me and she has passed so I am running the gauge.
The osculating fan control button has been gutted and modified to be the "main" toggle switch with on light..
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Test fitting using the gauges that don't have wires hanging from them.


Mounting:
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The gauge mounting brackets hold the gauges to the bezel and the bezel to the plastic trim, the 3 autometer gauges need to be pulled against the bezel but the XD-16 needs to be pushed against the bezel so the brackets do that.
And yes I have reprogrammed the XD-16 light bar to be less annoying.

The IAT gauge uses the same bezel gauge face as the XD-16 it used to have a 3" face, I cut it down to fit the aluminum bezel and cut a piece of CD case as a spacer/lens :
Before:
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After:
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Thought this was an achievement until I realized I should have designed a decal to match the autometer gauges. before crimping the bezel and spacer to the gauge face.

Because I have an air supply why not ad an air horn to the car. But it needs to function properly. because I am to stubborn to learn to program a controller I made the system using relays.

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Could I have made it any any more complicated?
The toggle switches ground signals come from the tank pressure switch signal so only if the main toggle (air pump) is on and tank pressure is above set pressure will the toggle selected settings operate the air horn otherwise it defaults to factory horn no matter where the toggle is set.
Air Horn position uses relay 1 to shut the signal to the factory horn relay.
Air and factory horn position uses relay 2 to trigger the air horn and turn off relay 1 allowing the factory horn relay to also get the horn button signal.
Off position allows the horn signal to pass through the NC pin on relay 1.

Because I have added so many relays to the car I had to add a fuse/relay box to the car:
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It mounts to some factory fasteners under the dash and just fits behind the glove box.
All the wires get loomed and taped, each device they run has a pined out factory connector, and all the wires leaving the fuse box have large connector under the dash so the fuse box disconnects from the harnesses and nearby devices, and every device disconnects from the wire harnesses, Every gauge, toggle, controller, LED, meth solenoid, extra injector, msd unit, speaker... connects to the same harnesses. The only exception is the pyrometer sensor signal wire bolts at the sensors and bolts to the gauge but it's ground shielded wire so I don't want to cut it and add a connector inside the firewall.

Came up with a way to monitor the knock signal going to the ECU to cut stage 3 boost using a timer relay that activated the relay and counts down when it receives a pulse signal, everytime it receives a pulse the counter starts over (it does not need constant signal at pin 86 to stay energized during the countdown). Once I learn to use a comparator properly.

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Gauge and control decals for the piggyback systems:

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This water meth system works perfectly, is reliable and rock solid.
The shit my mind allowed things to lead to is a different story perhaps the thread should be called:
-How to complicate the shit out of simple things.
-I am an idiot.
-I smoke too much weed.

All the diagrams and decals where designed using diagrams.net it's not meant for designing decals, but it can be used to doe so . The MSD dials and sds controller dials required hundreds of layers to achieve the final results, The MSD timing control and SDS threshold dials are not linear so I had to scan the originals, resize them and import them next to the decals I was designing to match all the same positions, the SDS had a range of 11 (psi?) vacuum to 21psi boost, I swapped the map to a gauge pressure sensor so I had to convert all the numbers based on the original map sensor markings I wanted it to be accurate but realistically I only need the dial set to 15psi, so once I find 15psi on the dial I will just install the knob so the position dash matches the green dash on the decal.
I so much prefer porting, forming and fabricating things with metal to working on a computer.


Although I had 95% of everything needed, has all this effort been worth it. Hell no, clearly I am insane.
Would I ever do this on a car again. No

I would like to continue adding proper harnesses for all the crap I run in my project cars.
But from now on stand alone.

 

I think the saying is there is a fine line between genius and insanity? What kind of car is this? I would like to know more about the air compressor. I have been thinking about on board air for my boost control / filling tires.

 

I don't think the line is visible until you cross it and look back.
The car is a 1988 mazda 626 GT, a 2.2L, fwd, 7.8:1comp, I4, 86mm bore by 94mm storke, cast iron block, 12V sohc aluminum head. running factory engine, transmission and ECU, The head, intake, exhaust ... have lots of porting work, the transmission has the differential shaft welded to the diff housing and the ecu has a factory boost cut removal chip. The red line is at 6250rpm the engine reaches peak torque below 3500rpm makes about 450 ft-lb at the wheels, 390hp and weights 2750lbs. It runs an 80$ t3 60trim mustang SVO turbo at 30psi on water meth and beats most cars that run 10 second or more 1/4 miles with good launch on a role. The cars are very reliable, the parts last for ever, they are comfortable to sit in, the interior is durable, the handling once modified is awesome because the torque pulls the car through corners but 180 from rwd you have to stay on the gas the hole way and can't let off or it's off the road and they are a lot of fun to drive.

This rebuild version starts with a body with no rust firewall to trunk and firewall to rad support sanded or sandblasted and coated in por 15 (2 coats), armor coat (2 coats) and brush on gravel guard in the engine bay and wheel wells, followed by sand blasting and powder coating every part that goes on the car.The goals of the new build are more handling, better braking, better gas millage, better rust and corrosion resistance...

The air pump is a Superflow MV-50 it is 30 amps and claims 3500 cubic inch per minute air delivery. ran it for 5 years winter/summer and it has never failed. the directions recommend 20 minutes of off time for every 40 minutes of run time.
There is another company that sells this MV-50 pump, it's the same pump, can't remember the brand name but this brand had cheaper shipping .