I've been trying the link, http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html , it doesn't work, has anyone else been able to get into it? Does anyone else have maybe a copy of the how-to from the site? It was a heck of a nice site for info, I hope it did not just go away.
Floyd.

 

I just checked as well...

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I sent a message to Andrew to try and sort it out.

 

anyone have any luck with this page getting back up?
or is there a new page or link with the same info?

 

Here is a link from when I printed the pages a while back. They are in PDF no pics.

HOLLEY BLOWTHROUGH CARB HOW-TO

 

Just to add variation here is my cliff note version of similar builds. I still haven't tracked the pics down from my old PC...



Basic BlowThru Carb Setup


This is a Basic BlowThru Carb starting point. There is nothing fancy about this method. BRPV's and other mods are not included in this write up.

Start with a 4150 Bore Holley Double Pumper. Most I have worked with started very crusty.

Disassemble the carb. If the gaskets are factory they will no doubt be a pita at times. Remove the needle and seats as well as the floats and hardware. Remove the Jets from the metering blocks as well as any screw in vacuum ports.
Keep all the hardware in a box or in zip lock bags as to not lose the small parts.

After disassembling the task of scraping the remaining gasket material begins.
Using gasket cleaner can help along with assorted screwdrivers, gasket scrapers.

Once I have the carb apart and quick cleaned I use my Bridgeport to mill the choke housing off. Since most folks don't have access to a Bridgeport a sawzall, grinder, rotary tool can be used. I also true the gasket surface with a light cut.

I drill/tap the carb stud to 5/16' (factory ¼') for added strength

On some carbs I mill some clearance above the LSAB/HSAB's. In that scenario I drill/tap the air bleeds to accept Holley changeable air bleeds. Some folks use small set screws instead of the Holley part as they are cheaper.

Modifying the Metering blocks. A quick/easy method is to enlarge the PVCR's slightly. Be careful as the material is only about 1/16 thick. Measure the depth to the back of the channel with welding wire, paperclip or other small wire. The overall depth before you get into the back side of the metering block is approx ¼'- 5/16'. You can feel when you are through the PVCR.. but Do Not drill all the way through the metering block. PVCR size: 5/64 is a good starting point for most but start small and work up as small changes add much fuel. You may need to open them more depending on the tune and jetting. If you go too far the car will be overly rich and hard to tune. At that point you need to drill/tap and use set screws to reduce the orifice size. Some folks drill/tap these right off the bat and use small set screws.

Once all the drilling, tapping, and milling is complete I soak the parts in old school nasty carb cleaner to wash them up. I clean all the screw/bolt hardware with the bench wire wheel.

After being soaked, washed in soap and water, and dried off epoxy the choke rod hole shut. Any mix epoxy works. I usually use JB-weld.

Now it is time to start assembling. In some cases I have powdercoated or enamel baked some components. Doesn't make it a better carb but looks nicer as the carb cleaner and age of the carb ..well they look pretty nasty out of the solvent.

I start by attaching the baseplate to the main body. I leave out the 2 middle screws as they could potentially fall into the motor if they backed off. I've never seen a baseplate screw back out but that's what folks say.

Assemble the floats as well as needle and seats. Floats need to be solid/Nitrophyl. I set them low initially and then raise them once the carb is on the car.

Assemble the Metering blocks. I usually start with the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns out. O-rings or gaskets are required to hold the idle screws in place. Bump up the jetting both front and rear. A Holley Jet assortment is probably a good investment at this point. I generally overjet, tune, and reduce jet to proper levels. Better safe than sorry. Add Jet extensions in the rear. The rear float needs to be notched for clearance. Don't forget the bowl vent baffles.

Slide the metering blocks, non-stick gaskets and washers, bowls onto the main body.

Add clear site plugs to the bowls for easier float level setting.

Add the accelerator pump arms, cams, and pumps/gasket to the baseplate and bowls. Start with the arms/cams. Place the pumps on the bowls. 30cc are standard but 50cc can be added if you need more intiall shot that cam/squirter tuning cannot provide.

Place the Squirter needle valve in the top of the main body, Secure the squirters of choice to the main body remembering that 2 gaskets are used per squirter(top/bottom)

If the HSAB/LSAB's are tapped make sure to install them now.

Cap all vacuum ports that will no be used.

You are now ready to bolt the carb on. Float level, idle mixture screws, and other tuning required. This is a baseline carb to get your project rolling.

 

Just a FYI to anyone that may want to copy this over. There is a company that archives web pages and hangar18 was backed up. Here is a link to dig through the past to save all of the info. I know there have been several threads lately talking about it going down, but I figured I would share this in case people didn't know about Internet archives.

http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

 

The actual link.

NOW, I suggest since the site went down and may be lost for good soon that whoever wants this data, copy and paste it or take it all and host it yourself somewhere. I am sure that Andrew could care less if you copy and paste exactly what he has written and pics.

http://web.archive.org/web/20031025025448/http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

 

I wonder if there would be any chance of Trent hosting it on this site...

That info is too good to loose.

 

hey Guys... the site is back up. Andrew didn't recieve the bill from the host but it is resolved now. He has been working like a dog and didn't realize the expiration. Andrew

 

Man, you guys are ruthless!

The site is back up and I have no intention of taking it down. . .perhaps someday I will revise the whole thing! At any rate, it went down because my CC the bill is sent to was marked as invalid because of my address change when I moved into my new house. My work schedule as of late has been 80+ hours per week, so I haven't checked my email in about a month, which usually notifies me about billing issues.

Besides, Brent and Walt have my number. hint hint

 

yeah dammitt

 

haha ex 714 represent'n

Next time middle of the night calls

 

It's not like I sleep anyway.

 

Andrew, Thanks for maintaining that site!