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Counter Weight Clearance Issues (pics)

Discussion in 'Turbo Tech Questions' started by Mike SVOR, Feb 4, 2005.

  1. Mike SVOR

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    Just got my 351 delivered and it looks like the rear main cap's bolt is extrememly close to the most rear counter weight.
    It's only got .020 thousandths clearance from the bolt's head to the counter weight.
    Does this seem normal?

    104_0452 copy.jpg #ad
     
  2. Mike SVOR

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    Here is another pic,

    copy of 104_0447 copy.jpg #ad
     
  3. dman

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2003
    considering there is end play it does seem allitle tight. push the crank back as far as it will go then measure.
     
  4. rl-

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2003
    Check endplay, it might have the wrong thrust bearing in it...
     
  5. 351Freak

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2004
    take the bolt out and swap it with another one...looks like your problem is due to the orientation of the hex head when it reached torque spec...you could get another .030 easy if it wasn't "pointed" at the crank...
     
  6. ShaneH

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    :withstu:
     
  7. Mike SVOR

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    Is that small amount of clearance normal?
     
  8. ShaneH

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    In all actuality, .020 would be acceptable with the crank pushed as far back into the thrust bearing as you can, although I'd like to see .030. Just swap the bolts on that cap and see what the clearances look like, if it'll make you more comfortable. This is where 12 point nuts and studs are nice. You don't have these issues with them.
     
  9. shawnt64

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2003
    oh and if it rubs the motor will explode:rolleyes:
     
  10. Mike SVOR

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    no, it probably wouldn't rub. But if it did, it would be throwing metal shavings at my brand new pistons.
     
  11. shawnt64

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2003
    well lets think about that. 8 clyinder boors, cast iron, and at least one moly ring per piston

    3.14x4"x3.5"x8 = 351 square" of area rubbing pretty hard

    now a steel bolt head .25" possibly rubbing a length of steel crank 3" = .75 square"

    i am sure the metal shavings will be coming from the bores
     
  12. Mike SVOR

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    If my brand new Forged Steel Eagle crank rubs on anything that could scratch it, I'm gona have a serious mental breakdown.
     
  13. shawnt64

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2003
    lol i am the same way, but if you take one loose you better take them all loose and then retorque the whole motherscratcher
     
  14. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Some ARP bolts or studs will fix that problem.
     
  15. ShaneH

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2003
    Nahhh, you've already got the crank bedded in the bearings. You could swap bolts on a single cap and not need to retorque every cap.
     
  16. Pro Tech 1

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2004
    A simple fix for your bolt clearance problem would be to rotate your crank to access the bolt with a socket and mark the bolt edge that is by the crank with a marker pen and remove the bolt and belt sand the edge to a smooth radius to add your clearance between your crank and the bolt ! Just make sure that you untorque both of the main cap bolts evenly and torque back to specs..!
     
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