i bought a upr manual brake conversion plate ( i would of bought the mc too but they ran out of them at the nmra). i bought a mc for a 84? i think ranger with manual brakes. i plumbed everything up and all that fun stuff nothing leaks all works fine, i come out a weak later pull the pins on my hood and uh oh....the studs upr gave me snapped on the mc and the firewall side...???? should i be concerned with the quality of the rest of there products as brakes are pretty important and if these studs had broke while i was driving i could of been seriously injured, also did i make the correct choice in going with the mc i did? if not could someone point me in the right direction for a mc? also ive heard of people moving the pushrod dowel on the pedal up an inch, im fully confident i can do this. should i do this now? or should i drive the car and see how my pedal feels and go from there. any input is greatly appreciated im just very concerned with my braking because this is the first car ive had full manual brakes so im not sure what i should expect, thanks again.

 

The studs breaking is SCARY for sure. You could prob get something good from ARP to replace em. I used The ASP mount - car STILL on jackstands - I didn't move the rod on the pedal yet. Figured I'd drive it and see how it feels first and then decide. Guys are posting that it feels fine without moving the rod. Sounds kinda funny...

http://www.aspracing.com/index-6.html

 

i went to the hardware store and grabbed some grade 8 bolts, do you think theyll be sufficient enough or should i look into something with more tensile strength? and also if i relocate the pin on the pedal should i drill a hole in the pedal to recess the pin and well it front and back or should i just lay the dowel on the pedal and weld it up?

 

i didnt move my stud on the pedal the first time out and it was pretty scary!! she didnt want to stop,then i moved it up about 3/4 to 1'' and they work much better..

 

Grade 8s should be fine. One of the kits I've seen,can't rem which one, uses a bolt through the brake arm to relocate the rod.

 

with the bolt through the brake arm im assuming youd have to put a sleeve on it? or just use the bolt with the stock plastic bushing, i may go with the bolt idea just because its much easier to do as my access to a welder is somewhat limited at this point in time.

 

When I do a manual conversion, I grind the weld off on the brake pedal arm that holds the stud on for the rod. Then redrill the hole 1" higher, and reweld the stud inside that hole. Manual conversions work MUCH better when the pivot is moved. Also, when done this way you can still use the factory brake light switch that attaches to that stud also. That's what I didn't like about the heim end setups I saw some race shops use.

 

would you recommend installing some sort of filler for were the rod was to strengthen the pedal arm, or is it not necessary?

 

I just welded a piece of 1/8 plate to teh back side to block of the hole and stengthen it. But that arm is STOUT regardless.

 

this is the same way i did mine..it is a night/day diff!!

 

So you're saying all six studs on both sides of the plate broke and you didn't notice until you opened the hood a week later? I would think the only way something like this could happen is if they were way over tightened.

 

all but 1 was broke, and they were def not easy to get out haha. i dont drive the car right now as i dont have everything for it to be together so me noticing it was up to whenever i went out there to try and install what little parts i have.