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Cheap China GT-45, in a 350” 72 Nova

Discussion in 'Newbie and Basic Turbo Tech Forum' started by MidmoJoe, Nov 26, 2021.

  1. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    A brief overview; $400 motor/trans in a “spare parts” car. I think I’ll need some 3:73 in the rear to get it to spool, coming off the line, with a generic 10” converter and 26” slicks. Flipped Vortec manifolds welded to a T-4 flange. I used 6011 welding rod for this, it was way too easy? The engine is your average.030, cheap rebuild, with Vortec heads and a 214 at .050” cam. RPM intake and a 600 Holley. No intercooler, I’m really leaning towards blowing straight water into the compressor. I know E-85 would work well, but a good alcohol carb and the necessary fuel upgrades will cost as much as I have in the entire car. And I’m perfectly willing to spread this motor all over the pavement if something goes wrong. Thx in advance

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  2. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    That’s pretty similar to what I ran in my squarebody for years. I sold it, and it’s still going strong. I never ran an intercooler and never had any problems. I had it as high as 17psi on 91 pump gas and it was a ripper at that level. 10psi was where I kept it for daily driver duty.
     
    MidmoJoe likes this.
  3. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    My turbo has a split housing going into the turbine, I think I will install a plate to separate the 2 sides of the engine going into the T-4 plate?
    Is there any magic in blowing water at the compressor wheel? I’m going to initially run the exhaust straight up, at the onset of white smoke ( steam), I suppose that’s too much. I read in my older turbo book that water will dampen peak pressure and temps, better than even an excess of fuel.
    You managed some fairly high boost for no injection or IC, do you know what your IAT were running?
     
  4. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Water won't make any power, but it helps keep you from hurting parts while making slightly less power.
     
    MidmoJoe likes this.
  5. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
     
  6. gruntguru

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2019
    Generally water will make more power by allowing you to run more boost and timing.
     
  7. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    We're saying the same thing. Everything else being equal, same boost, same timing, it will make more power without water.
     
    tbird likes this.
  8. wht73

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2017
    Looks nice! Only thing I would do is install Vband in driver side crossover.
    Where are you thinking of putting wastegates?
     
  9. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    The bent pipe going up to the passenger side isn’t welded, I’m going to try double muffler clamps in each side. It will have a little give and come back apart fairly easily.
    I’m thinking a wastegate on the opposite side from the alternator will be a good angle, and run back to the exhaust exit.
     
  10. wht73

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2017
    I think you need 2 wastegate 1 for each bank.
    I also think you should weld in vbands instead of clamps.
    You will have leaks with regular clamps IMO and you would only need 1.
     
  11. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    This pic shows the area I’m looking at. Straight shot out, and I’ll install the biggest WG I can. This shot kind of gives you the whole “backyard flavor” of this project.
    If I have to seal it up better to make 10 psi, I will. Otherwise the leak will just act like that 2nd WG I didn’t install!!

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    wht73 likes this.
  12. flyinhillbilly

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    Not a clue on the IAT’s. I’ve been in this stuff since 2006, and I’ve had some cars that made big power with no intercooler or water meth. when I get crazy with it I run good fuel to help keep detonation at bay, but the atomization of fuel helps keep the IAT’s at a reasonable level.
     
  13. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    I’m going to have to cut up one of my hoods eventually, with a air scoop roughly shaped liked the cardboard box in pic1. WMT has small cooking thermometers for a few bucks, I’ll screw one of these to the 3” aluminum duct over to the carb, for a guesstimated IAT. And start at maybe 0.065” on a nozzle spraying at the center of the impeller, pure water doesn’t mess with your A/F ratios if I’m reading that correctly. Does this seem like a reasonable approach?
     
  14. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    I’ve got quite a ways to go on this project, and the hardest part is to just keep plugging away. It helps a lot to get any kind of feedback, and I want to say Thx to everyone who reads this.
     
    wht73 likes this.
  15. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    Motor1 had a few cracked pistons, I never ran it with the turbo. Motor2 is a std bore 350”, out of a 71 car. New bearings and rings, it will be ready for testing soon. I completed my oil drain and a few other things in the meantime. It’s amazing how fast the time goes, and how much there still is to do.
     
    ummduh, silver82GT and wht73 like this.
  16. Forcefed86

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Gt45 is a dinosaur these days, and not even cheap like it once was. We use to pick them up for $99 shipped. Not too bad at that price. Might look into 78/75 from VSR. They aren’t to much more. Half the weight and twice the turbo. Will spool much quicker, more power per pound, and won’t be compressor limited near as quickly.

    The best deal out there now IMO is a pair of GT35 clones. They can be had for $125 shipped each. Just add a 3rd if you want to get spicy!
     
  17. MidmoJoe

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2020
    I’ve got my second motor running, it sounds ok. A few other things came up in the meantime, so this is going slowly. Most recently, my Powerjoke F250 won’t start now, and the wife has strongly suggested replacing it with a newer truck. After looking at few, I’m going to waste a little more time working on the old one. Your probably right on the GT-45, but I already have it, and I’m going to try it first.
     
    Forcefed86 likes this.
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