Guess I could start by saying I've owned 4 electric exhaust cutouts in the past and I've always had nothing but trouble with them. These were all different brands and all butterfly type mechanisms. I'm not here to badmouth vendors so I won't mention brands.

Anyway with the cheap 60mm (2.35') china wastegates available on ebay these days it would seem I could have a boost activated cutout for under $100. Or 2 of them for roughly the price of the electrical cutouts? I've run an OBX brand WG for several years with no problems'¦. Just a thought.

 

I think it is a clever idea. With a 3.7psi spring it would be open only under boost. You could also add a solenoid that blocked the vaccume signal so that a toggle switch could disable it.

 

sounds like it should work

 

What about taking one of your old electric cutouts and fabbing up a bracket, and putting a pneumatic cylinder on it? Boost activated cutout

 

The only bad thing I could think of is that the chinese wastegates like to stick sometimes if you dont actuate them commonly, so you might get stuck with it open driving down the road, that being said, exhaust post turbo isn't that loud compared to normal straight pipes. I think it'd be a neat experiment

 

Do you guys think it will exit well when the air has to make that L?


My question to you is what goes wrong with your cutout? I've had mine for 2 years an no issues? Mines wireless remote control.

I

 

W youould mind losing up which electric cutout you had luck with?

 

The flow won't be great, but exhaust will take the path of least resistance. 2 60mm gates wide open would relieve a lot of back pressure. Even 2 40mm gates would make a huge difference IMO. Esp in my setup. Where I would have very small piping and a restrective oem muffler downstream of the cutouts/gates.

I don't think the cutouts are meant to handle the extreme heat of a turbo exhaust system. Couple NA friends haven't had any problems. My first unit, the motor failed twice. 2nd unit the butterfly loosened up and rattled. Still welded to shaft, but no longer positively shut off and held the blade tightly closed. Then the motor failed. 3rd unit bent the actual blade, then the motor failed. They were fun while they worked though. I think the Dougs units with the sliding gate would work well. But they are very expensive. Since switching to e85 exh soot is pretty much nonexistent and EGT's are lower that may make a big difference in longevity'¦

This was my 3" dp to 4" cutout, then fed back into factory exhaust and 4 mufflers.

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That factory exhaust can't be helping the cutout live....

 

No, but that is the purpose of a cutout IMO. So you can have factory quiet exhaust and performnace exhaust at the flip of a switch. If your exhaust is already freeflowing and loud what is the point? I should clarify, it did have the cats removed. But it did neck down from 3" dp to to 2 2" ( maybe 1.75"?) crush bent OEM pipes, 2 silencers, and factory mufflers. This was also on a 3.0 v6.

 

I would only do single gates. The pressure drop in a pipe goes down exponetially as flow decreases. A small amount of exhaust bypassed will drop the pressure to nothing.

Even with a 90 degree turn the wastegate is so far up stream a significant amount of gas will flow thru it.

 

Only tried one. It's badlanzhpe or something like that. It's the cheapest electric cutout I found.

 

Funny looks like you have on the same cutout as me.

And first question is do you have wireless control? This IMO is the way to keep the motor alive if your just using the manual switch you may still be forcing the motor to move even when it's already fully close or fully open thus damaging it.

I know it's a bit more cash but it's so much more convenient and you won't ever have to worry if ur cutout is fully open.

I actually damage a motor using manual switch in two months use. So I switched and haven't have issues.


And I though this was for turbo application? I've had it on my supra that made 483whp on 21# of boost. So it ran hot specially on summer days. Before that it was on my turbo dd supra that mad estimated 300whp.

Sold it after I thought I was done with cars and now I got another one and running on my turbo v8 for about 9 months now I believe zero issues.

maybe I'm just lucky? Lol


But this post reminded of the time where I wanted to buy a cheap wastegate and put it on the COLD side and put like a 18-20psi spring or whatever my limit is, it would serve as a fail safe just incase for whatever reason I hit a boost creep or something malfunction lol

 

Yes I do. Badlanz has great customer service, didn't want to give them a bad wrap. Charles Gerst is awesome. He set me up with a custom cutout after that with a thicker blade for free. Then the motor went out. As you can see in the video I don't hold the button down any length of time. I do short bursts until it is closed. Charles said as long as you don' t hold it for extender periods of time it won't heat up the circuit. There is also a fuse inline to help prevent damage. The other reason it could have blew out is because it was a huge 4" butterfly. As stated above that isn't necessary. A 2.5" probably would have been sufficient.

And this was on a turbo car. Sc300 Na-T converted myself. Was a high 11 sec 3500lb car. Drove like stock, t-66 @ 27psi. I sold it a year ago. Looking for another cutout type option for my daily driven 93 turbo talon.

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Sorry can't watch video on my itouch lol

But why are you doing short burst? With wireless control it's one press and it will open/close and stop automatically. Which is what saves the motor.

And funny you say that cuz the one I have now is a 4" cutout hahaha I wanted overkill so I switch to a 4" lol

 

Forget electric motors....if you can build a turbo kit, building this is no problem if you have a cutout with a bad motor:

http://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/images/P/SPF-BACO-3.jpg

 

Yup this IMO I the best way to go IF you already have the whole butterfly thing. Or know a place to get the butterfly.

Ietherway I like my electric cutout its loud when ever I want it. Ex: idle or cruising or just plain revving it while out of gear. But I like my rides loud just not when I'm pulling out of my driveway at 7am lol hint the cutout.

 

Ordered up a $60 38mm EMUSA waste gate. The vendors told me the V band flanges would be SS. They are mild steel. Which is good for most, but I have SS exhaust. Then upon looking at the gate there is a good 1/16th gap all around the valve in the closed position? The Valve is beveled, yet there is no 'seat' for the valve to have a positive shut off against. Almost like the gate itself is missing parts. The vendor agreed to send me a shipping label and refund my money in full. It's a shame really, they could have had a competitive product at that price if they spent a little more time with it.

 

Are you sure that space isn't taken up by the flange?

I know my x02 60mm wastegate has space all around but with the flange it's fully closed.

 

That is how my OBX gate was. I'm thinking they forgot to include the insert that goes between the vband mount and the gate.