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Carb leaking fuel

Discussion in 'Carburetor + Boost Tech Questions' started by DButler, Jan 2, 2011.

  1. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    I have a carb shop 750 with brpv's. I have 67 jets in primary and 70 in secondary. Drop leg boosters in front and annular in rear. I have a aeromotive a1000 with a1000 regulator. I have return and all ran properly. I try to start the car and it is hard to start and it is flooding like crazy. Took the hat off today and looked in carb and it pours fuel for a few minutes out of the boosters after it is turned off. Also it is blowing fuel into the carb hat. I have the idle screws backed out 1.5. My fuel pressure shows to be at 8 psi when car is trying to idle. just wondering why it is running so rich and why it is pouring fuel after car is shutoff? I am new to this so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. blown385

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2007
    float stuck , or level too high .
     
  3. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Ok i was thinking they would be too high since it is both sides. it is unlikely both would be stuck? Also what would cause it to stick? And what is a good level that the floats need to be? This would be the reason so so much flooding and hard to start probably correct? I hate to ask 21 questions just trying to get it right. Thanks
     
  4. Eric68

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2007
    8psi is probably too high. Not sure what the carb shop puts in theirs, but on mine I use either .130 or .150 needle and seats. These larger needle and seats will not handle nearly as much pressure as the smaller ones. Try backing your pressure down to 6 'ish and see if the float levels level out where they should be.
     
  5. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    It has .156 needle and seats. So I should back it down to 6 and see what that does? Also 8 psi wasn't enough to messed anything up correct?
     
  6. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    I switched over to an a1000 setup before I was using a bg400 pump. I probably should have left fuel psi alone.
     
  7. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Can the needle and seats be cleaned in the bowl or do they have to be taken out?
     
  8. blown385

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2007
    Take the site plugs out and turn the fuel pump on . Dont start the motor , just check the level . If you cant adjust the level at 6 to 7psi then take the bowls off and check the needle and seats .

    turning the carb upside down .



    The float should be set so fuel just trickles out of the sight hole .
     
  9. jim wingo

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    make sure they are Viton N/S's, not all steel-rem to clean, lower F/P to 6, have the fuel just at the bottom of the site plug, or if it has a sight glass, around 1/2 way if it has marks
    make sure it doesnt hydro lock, cyls full of fuel, or damage could happen-you can pull the plugs out and spin (bump) the engine,
    WITH THE IGNITION killed, or you will have a huge bonfire, i know, lol
     
  10. blown385

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2007
    WOW , talk about a simultaneous post !
     
  11. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Ok I will check the float levels first and then if thats doesn't work then I will pull it off and clean it. I spoke with the carb shop this morning and they said it could have some trash holding the needle and seats open. I am sure it has viton needle and seats they went completely through it. The carb is new. Maybe it is just float levels needs to be adjusted down.
     
  12. blown385

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2007
    After you get it sorted out , keep us/me informed how it runs . :2thumbs:

    I had some issues with their PVs . They would sometimes not seal properly , and fuel would get by the steel ball and seat causing it to run very rich at low RPMs . If it runs rich down low with that jetting , this is something to look at . Do you know at what psi they are set to open ?

    I'm pretty sure that is the same carb I'm running ............. minus the PVs and metering blocks . Well , its the same 1/2 of the carb I'm running . lol
     
  13. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    I am not sure what the springs on the PV are set at. I told OJ I think is his name there what I boost I was wanting to run. Also I may have more than 8 psi, I have a liquid filled gauge and read that they don't always hold the right pressure. When the car heats it drops to like 3 or 4psi. I think the gauge must be crap or something because the whole fuel system is brand new. My car was running like 10.6 on afr before my sensor crapped on my LM2. I have a new sensor now. I am new to this and I paid a guy to tune it for me and now he don't want to finish his job so I am learning on my on as I should have before! If it is still running this rich at idle what would you recommend checking next? PV leakage? and if so how do I check that?
     
  14. blown385

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2007
    Yes get rid of that gauge .

    The PVs leaking should not effect idle .

    After you figure out whats going on with your issue now ................... If its rich at idle and the rest of the carb is like it came from The Carb Shop , meaning the transfer slots are correct , it should be as easy as adjusting the 4 idle mixture screws .
     
  15. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Ok, thanks for all the hep. I really appreciate it. I will make adjustments and I will check back in and let ya know. Thanks
     
  16. DButler

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    the gauge was crap install new gauge and fuel ws high and kept rising which has led me to bad a1000 reg. I took return line loose at tank and no fuel returning and also at the reg. and hardly no fuel returning which leaves fuel psi to keep rising. So i think I have nailed my problem down. I checked float levels and they are perfect.
     
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