I hope this fits into the Advanced Tech section as its advanced to me.

First Ring sealing, I dont want to get into the drive easy/beat on it argument. Although it does deal with loading the rings. From what I have heard that you need to get some load in the cylinders to set the rings or they will not ever seal right. My question is how long of a window do you have to set the rings? As well how the hell do you plan on loading a new engine with out tuning it first? I would figure that the amount of time of steady state needed to get the fuel and timing right before you really put a load on it would mess with ring sealing, or am I missing something?

The second part is the Plug reading. I read/been told that to properly read the plugs they need to be new and should have a full load pass and killed at end of pull/strip and removed and inspected. Again what is the window if I idle it for 30 minutes is it to late and need to put new plugs in or what? As well I have heard that on a dyno that sometimes you cant put enough heat into the engine to read the plugs correctly. This one really gets to me as most dyno's you should be able to load it and set a RPM rise that is close or slower than what the car would run. There for put enough heat into them. Just wondering if my lack of experince is making me miss something.

Thanks for all the help. If this belongs somewhere else feel free to move it.
Patrick

 

anyone want to take a crack at it

 

Load the rings as soon as possible. You're right about setting up the tune in time to properly seat the rings. For an auto trans car, after I get the timing and idle fueling close, and before I even set the idle speed, I start working on the tune at converter stall speed. Making short bursts, loading the engine on the TC, then shutting down to make any changes. Then repeat. As the tune starts getting closer, and as long as it is on the rich side, not the lean side, I'll start loading the engine longer on the TC between tune changes.
Cam breakin, if needed, would always come first.

On a new tune, you should be checking plugs constantly, whether on the dyno or at the track. Use fresh plugs and shut down as soon as possible after a pull. Preferably, don't idle for half an hour before checking the plugs.

 

Can you do this with the transbrake ?

 

or foot brake..
anything to load the engine alittle

 

How do you do this with the engine out of the car. I am wanting to fire and run the engine on a stand first to check for leaks and issues versus having to work on the engine while in the car?

 

take it to an engine dyno ?
thrash it on the dyno

 

closest engine dyno is a few hours away so I would rather get a start up tune and leaks fixed versus driving 2 hours waste time and money only to have to come back and fix things. Many I wish I could just buy a engine dyno for my house. Anyone got any plans for a home built dyno??

 

dyno out on the highway ? lol

 

Here ya go - home build dyno

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So I have been thinking more and more about this even to the point of pricing out a water brake dyno. Then it hit me that I have a built Art Carr transmission I have had for about 7 years still in the packing crate. I was thinking about building the engine stand with the transmission on it and taking the front and rear yoke off the drive shaft. Putting the them together with a u joint and bolting the rear yoke to a plate of 3/8 steel that will be bolted to the engine stand. fire engine up put transmission in 3rd gear and load the engine. My biggest concern with this is transmission fluid heat, but I figuered I could us a big transmission cooler that I already have laying around and just submerge it in ice water. Is this a setup for failure or is it a possible way to load the engine for 10 minutes. figuere this will allow me to keep the engine at a set rpm and set up the tune at the same time while setting the rings.

 

Mines going straight in the truck , a couple heat cycles , check for leaks , then either load int on the footbrake a couple times or the transbreak . Check for leaks again , change the oil , button everything up and go terrorize the neighborhood .

Last time I just heat cycled them a couple times and drove it easy . No issues at all . But even driving easy with 4400lbs still puts some load on it .




If you have nothing tied to the transmission to break it , there will be no load . I can put mine in 3rd on jack stands and even through the dif with tires on it , not be able to put load on it .

 

Blown

my car is setup to run a 5 speed so loading it with out driving it is a no go while trying to tune the EFI. That is why I was planning to put the transmission on the engine stand and bolt down the rear yoke to not let it turn at all. With the 4k stall and 3rd gear I should be able to load it. Another issue is that I dont want to run the turbo during break in due to metal in the oil dont want to trash a new turbo.

 

I see . Didnt understand what you were doing .

Be careful , and make sure we get video .

 

oh I will video it, if my zoom on the camera works that good !! It does have me concerned but I plan on using some heavy tubing and steal for it. As well with it in 3rd gear it wont have the torque as in 1st. If it seems to flex I will just hook up the transbrake and hope for the best.

What do you think about the heat of the transmission? you think it will be ok with a cooler in ice water?

 

this is what I designed as a idea for the engine and transmission. If I wanted to I could also convert the to work with a water brake dyno if I ever pick one up.

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