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cutting header flanges. yay or nay?

Discussion in 'Turbo Tech Questions' started by xxfastangxx, Nov 16, 2011.

  1. xxfastangxx

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2007
    I keep getting leaks on my exhaust side... I think its from my exh bolts loosening up and allowing the header to warp. I drive my car all the time on the street and can't seem to cure this issue. I've tried every gasket they make and have had no luck. RTV, percys dead soft, copper, copper and rtv, and even the remflex. Percys worked best, but they blew out quickly.

    I see alot of people cut NA flanges between each collector so each collector can form any way it wants. I don't see anyone doing it with turbo headers. Is there a reason?

    To make it weirder, it seems that only my drivers side really warps, well...its actually visible I should say. Im sure the pass side isn't perfect either though.

    Running out of patience...
     
  2. Gen1SVE

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2006
    I would not cut the flanges. Keep them one piece. Take the headers off and have them milled flat at a machine shop. I am assuming the flanges are mild steel. Make sure the flanges are not too tight around the header bolts. If the flange needs to expand a little, oval the bolt holes so the header can expand. I would not worry about the two center holes. I would oval the outer holes more than the center holes. Oval the holes so the flange can grow lengthwise. I am using a 1/2" stainless flange that I had machined after welding using copper RTV and I have no sealing issues. Hope this helps.
     
  3. Evil SSP

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2006
    Iirc, Corky Bell suggested cutting the flange between each cylinder. I haven't read his book for probably 8 years though.
     
  4. 10secgoal

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    Do not cut thew flanges. What headers are they ? Are they flat, or the raised welded lip for the sealing surface ?
     
  5. turbo66

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2005
    Definately do not cut the flanges, had lots of trouble with cut flanges moving all over the place. cut them off and went to solid flanges, no trouble at all now.
     
  6. lsxs10

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2010
    How thick are they?
     
  7. mandrelbends

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2009
    1/2" mild flanges, with a double stack of .050 copper gaskets. No more issues.
     
  8. xxfastangxx

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2007
    they are the headers off my bg kit. I seem to be the only one having these issues...its driving me nuts. Do you guys use lock washers?
     
  9. stangman9897

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
  10. M&M Turbochargers

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2011
    has anyone used the header bolts with the set screw in the middle??? might be an option also
     
  11. BYBYLS1

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2011
    Good question, I've wondered if header bolts like the Percy split locks are actually worth the money? I know that theyre more expensive but if they work they might be worth the money. I personally use the ARP header bolts that have a 5/16" head, that way you can actually get on the bolt with a long 6 point box end wrench and give it some torque. Just make sure to use some copper anti-seize on the bolts
     
  12. big dave

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2005
    The split locks with the allen in the center are AWESOME . . . They should be tightened just as much as normal header bolt would be and then snug the center bolt good. We used to use them on all turbo cars and never once had them back out on us and they are much, much, much easier to install than the Stage 8 style locking header bolts.

    I would also recommend using no gasket at all but to use only some good copper RTV as this is what seems to work best for alot of the Fords for some reason. Otherwise - an MLS gasket would be the only gasket I would use and expect any success with personally.
     
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