Getting ready for first start up. Waiting on a few parts.
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Gotta love a BUG!

 

It's amazing how much power you can make with a Type 1

 

VW Beetles have good aftermarket support . I’ve seen some different swaps one video on YouTube of a Subaru powered bug.

 

I hope to make some power with this combo. I’ve had a drag fiberglass buggy with a 2180cc that ran 11.40’s. And beetle that could go high 14’s. Both n/a. This is my first turbo. It’s a 1600 with a small cam and cleaned up ports on stock heads. The carb is a 40mm drla dellorto and the turbo is a t3 from an 86 Saab. I’ve had this turbo in a bin since the 90’s. I’m waiting on an -3an fitting and some vacuum hose.
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My friends 1954 all motor 1915cc pulled wheelies thing was badass.

 

It’s running. How do I know that the internal waste gate isn’t leaking. This is an old turbo, plus I had to reclock it. Adding the boost gauge this week. Probably won’t be working on it for a few days now. Feels good to hear it run and back out of the garage.

 

with a mityvac

 

And I guess if I’m not making any boost, the valve inside is leaking or not adjusted properly.

 

I think I had my BOV on backwards. But, I relay don’t feel any boost when driving. Still gotta get the boost gauge hooked up. It’s a .42/.48 T3. I had both housings off to clock it. Hopefully I didn’t screw anything up.

 

You can't really mess it up if you're in the least bit careful. Just make sure it spins freely. Assuming you have an internal gate, the actuator rod needs tension. If you can move it by hand, it's too loose. Unhook the bov, and tape the outlet, that'll tell you if it's leaking. Get a boost gauge.

 

The BOV plate opens after I rev it when parked. I have the weakest spring in.
The turbo never really had a ton of free spin by hand. Maybe one revolution after spinning by hand. It spins at idle and I feel a little buff of air from the BOV.
I bought parts yesterday to get the gauge done. Thanks

 

I have not performed any of the fuel enrichment mods to the carb. But, I do have the boost gauge installed and zero boost. I’m using a port in the carb, right below the butterfly. The gauge has vacuum and boost. It just goes to zero during any hard driving.

 

What size engine, hp,rpms. What turbo or what exactly is the turbo off of?

 

It’s a 1600 cc with a small performance cam and a single 40mm drla dellorto carb. Max rpm probably 5500. Has a heavy stock flywheel.
The turbo is a tb03 off an 80’s Saab. It’s .42 air/.48 exhaust. It’s moving air at idle.
The turbo’s not rebuilt and I’ve had it on a shelf for 20 years. When I clocked it, I had a tough time getting it apart. And the air side actually is stamped inside “needs gasket”. I used a lite smear off high heat silicone. It had a tiny bit of shaft wobble, but after clocking and running it, the wobble seems almost gone.

 

How many rpms?

 

It should go to 5500 rpm. N/A it’s a peppy 1600.

 

This is all a rough estimate, I did the numbers at 5,000rpms, where it's a bit more realistic where the engine will be at more of the time. If you haven't ran it up to this point, let me know and I'll work that point over.

1.6L at 5,000rpms is 126cfm @90% ve, or 9.5lbs/min when corrected to standard day conditions.
This makes exhaust flow ~ 15lbs/min.
Looking up some tb03 turbos for mid 80s saab's they all use the same 48mm exducer turbine wheel with a .48a/r housing.
There isn't any turbine flow maps from that era, so I looked up something close in today's modern turbos. Garrett gbc22 turbo has a 46mm turbine and .64 housing. It only flows 10lbs/min at where I believe your turbine is running. Your turbine wheel is slightly bigger, but has more blades and smaller housing, so I'll assume ~10% less flow capability for 9lbs/min. Your engine at 5,000rpms is 15lbs/min, it should be making boost. I'd say it's probably a really stiff center section, how easy does it turn with your fingers?

 

Thanks for the info.
If I spin it with my fingers, it only really will spin like a revolution or two. Would rebuilding it free it up?
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