I move the battery to the trunk of the 89 coupe. When it cold it start fine. When hop in and take it for a spin or just drive to to were ever. When you try to restart it it act like the battery is dead you sit there for 45-to and hour she fires right up and every thing all good. I think it's a ground problem. I grounded it to the back bumped support. Should I run a ground back up to the motor like it was factor since the start it grounded by the bell housing? It started fine before I move the battery to the trunk hot or cold.

 

Run a ground to the rear quad-shock area on the frame and another from the quad-shock area to the engine block or bellhousing.

 

I have the same problem. I have a ground going from the block to the front frame rail, the battery to the quad shock mount, and also from the block all the way back to the battery because I thought it was ground problem. I've replaced both the battery and the starter with no luck. Any ideas on that one because I'm stumped and I hate chasing electrical gremlins?

 

I just upgraded to a e-bay high torque mini starter and it cured my hot start problems. My grounds were all in check...but my downpipe heated up my gigantic OEM starter to the point where it was far too slow cranking when hot and required far too many amps. If you haven't already upgrade....I HIGHLY recommend it!

 

Yeah, unfortunately, I have. I had a Power Master mini, high torque one for a while, and then switched to a factory replacement mini starter, but it didn't help.

 

The battery relocation kits you buy use to small of cable for going from the trunk to the front of the car and you lose voltage, go to a welding supply and buy some 0/0 cable and it will work fine.

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=132126.10;wap2

 

Yeaaaaahhhh, unfortunately, I did that too.

 

You have ground issuse's then.

 

How many grounds do I need to have??

 

Worst case scenerio is to run a grounding cable from bat back up to block.On my 70 Nova I used 1/0 for the starter,then 1/0 bolted to the trunk floor for ground.At to engine,I grounded the frame to the firewall,the engine to the frame and also to the firewall.I had absolutely no probs.

 

I move the ground to the quad shock. I drove the car around came back home. Turn the car off try to start it. Start tune over but was slow like the battery was dead. We try to jump it off but the start did the same thing. I told my buddy I need to run a ground from the quad shock to the start like what you guys told me to do. He said it should have started when we try to jump it off. I told him if it doesn't have a good enough ground even jumping the car will not work. I think I'm right or am I wrong?

 

check and make sure the starter mounting surface is clean and there is a good contact with the bell. painted surfaces don't work. To test the theory take a jumper cable and hook a ground to the starter bolt & try it again. Had this happen before!

 

I move the cable I have running for the back straight to the starter. Now when the car is hot or you drive it some were it will turn the start over not fast like when it cold but barely enough to crank it. Any ideals on how to make it turn the starter faster?

 

I bought a battery w/ a high CCA rating (1150) and don't have this problem anymore. It's a heavy battery at 70 plus lb's though. Cranks fast when hot.

 

I did that until I purchased a better (track legal) battery box. I had the biggest, baddest optima yellow top commercial. With the track legal box came a major size constraint which meant I had to fix the actual problem. In the end what worked was throwing on a cheap e-bay mini starter. Not only does it crank quicker, but there is FAR less surge on the system when doing so.