Ok, this is my first official post at this forum but I have been reading around here for a while. I am in the middle of a turbo build-up for my 01 Bullitt. I ordered the kit from HP Performance a while ago, it is supposed to ship on the 7th (in 2 days).

I am planning on building up some other parts of my car while I am at it. I will be installing everything by myself (except resurface flywheel, and tune), as I have access to a whole garage.

Let me know what you think about the setup I am planning on going with. Any advice or experience would be appreciated, and mabye some nice places to get the parts for cheap.

-HP Performance Twin Turbo Kit, no add-ons, minus chip
-Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge (Wide-band to expensive for now)
-315/35R17 BFG Drag Radials on 17x10.5 MRT Replica Wheels
-Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
-RAM throwout bearing??? (Need help on this one)
-UPR chromoly rear control arms (upper & lower)
-31 spline Mosers
-Eaton Posi
-Driveshaft safety loop, Weld axle tubes, weld subframe connectors, spark plugs

I have heard about welding something else in your axle to make it stronger, and stronger wheel studs. I am hoping to make 450-460 rwhp, and this should all hold up nicely even with the 315 BFG DR.

I also already have full bolt-ons, and 4.10 gears. I want to be able to hook up in 1st gear w/ everything I am doing. Might not be possible, I am not sure.


MOST IMPORTANTLY, I am still looking for the best way to have my car tuned. I am not trying to spend all this money just to have it blow up due to a crappy tune. I have heard really good stuff about Modular Powerhouse (I am in the NC area).

Again, any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

1. A wideband O2 sensor is under $300. Get one.
2. Use a Ford throwout bearing. I'm not sure what the attraction is to a Ram bearing. Change the pilot bearing while you're there.
3. Unless it's a track-only car, I recommend using rear control arms with poly bushings on the chassis ends.
4. Don't just weld the axle tubes to the housing. For best results, take it all to somebody who has a jig.
5. My bone stock rear axle (except gears) held up just fine with 452 rwhp/498 rwtq and drag radials. 3600 lbs, 1.65 60-foot. Buy a wideband O2 before you go wild on the rear end, if you want to do things in order. A built axle with a blown engine in front of it is pretty useless.
6. Welding the spider gears together in the differential is a hack's way of making a spool. Lose the phone number of the guy who told you that it's a good idea.

Mark

 

Thanks for the input, I had not heard about the pilot bearing.

However, I have no idea where to find a wideband for under $300 the cheapest I can find is $350.

 

$300, $350, whatever. $50 isn't going to make much of a difference in a project of this magnitude. I paid $240 for my AEM wideband, but I have a hookup.

Mark

 

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=116
Sub $300, and there are others out there.
Even the AEM TurboShortBus mentioned is on sale for cheaper than $300.

 

Here's my hookup...he's a good friend of mine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=120128897963&rd=1&rd=1

Mark

 

+1 on everything said.

NGK Powerdex wideband O2 is $240 shipped. thats what i'm running and its great.


I'd also suggest swapping the 4.10's for some 3.55's or 3.73's

 

Which HP kit did you go with? The 50's?

I just finished the install of an HP twin 57 kit on my bullitt.

 

+1 on the throwout bearing. Mine sucks, loud even with grease. Im just to lazy to go after those top two bell housing bolts, and Im having to much fun on my bike anyway. Ive had my new engine combo going from the first of the year, and Ive only put 200 miles on it.

 

I went with the 50's on mine.