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70 Plymouth with modern a/c condenser, trans cooler, and hideaway headlight assembly that limits what would otherwise be a huge nose cavity.

I have ~24x16x2 available, or, if I did 2 separate intercoolers (doing twin turbos) the depth limit would no longer exist, but piping is doubled on the outlet.

I do have 2 'classic' Saab intercoolers for this idea like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAAB...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0ff4f819

Something like:
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...duct_Code=IC0011-BIGCORE&Category_Code=IC35CO

is generally the shape that would fit, but I'd need the outlet to go off to the side off the end of the tank and be thinner. I haven't had much luck ebaying and googling for 2" core intercoolers in this configuration. I'm not set up to weld AL to make my own and I'm not looking to spend as much as it'd take for a custom unit. Only looking to make 500hp out of a mild mannered 383.

It's also possible that I might be able to do something like a 28x6x4 down in the valance area. The car does have a lower grill opening there, but airflow would not be as good.


So, 4 options:
1. Locating a 2 into 1 ~24x16x2 IC with inlets/outlet in the right places
2. Use 2 separate, deeper IC's (are the Saab units laughable for this?)
3. a more traditionally 'ricer' shaped fmic down in the valance area
4. Hack the car more to try to get 3-3.5" of depth for the 24x16 front area

Pros/cons? Anyone have a IC shaped like I need?

 

Here's a different view point, have you considered Methanol Injection? Reason I ask is it doesn't sound like you're going to run a lot of boost, Alky would be way easier to install vs the intercooler and probably be cheaper after buying the core, piping and then fabbing it in etc.

I don't have an intercooler on my Grand National and run a ton of Methanol to cool down the current 25psi, this might be an option for you too. You can run two separate (twin turbos) 3gph Preturbo and one 14gph Postturbo to start, that's going to do a number on charge temps. If you decide to monitor MAT temps then you can adjust the Postturbo nozzle until the temp comes down to where you want it, pretty straight forward.

 

Actually, I should have mentioned that I do have an Edelbrock Verijection setup that I could use. Originally I was going to fire it up without IC and without water/alc injection and work on that later, but merging the cold sides non-intercooled was looking like a small pain, and with the newly created room up front with the modern condenser, I decided to revisit starting with IC.

Here's basically the shape I need:
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I remeasured the valance area, and that won't really work, the headlight motor and gear is right in the way of where the IC would need to be to get airflow down there.

I guess in a perfect world I'd eventually IC and inject, as these turbos are small and will probably produce some heat. But I haven't found the right IC option yet that doesn't involve cubic dollars.

 

Yep, for as big as they are there isn't much room underhood as we'd expect. When I had a 70 Fury many years ago I wanted to mount some decent driving lights behind the grille. The headlight door driveshaft runs right thru the middle of that area and I found only one set of lights that were thin enough to actually fit.
Since the project is to actually own a C-body, be proud of it, and to put turbos on it '“ all of which are crazy ideas (I'm a diehard C-body fan, as Furious70 can attest to), here's my crazy idea.


Figure out a way to open the headlight doors from the sides via individual actuators instead of the center-mounted motor. Maybe get rid of some of the center bracing also? Or make a different brace after the IC is installed?

You'd need a DPDT switch to reverse the DC voltage to the actuator to allow opening/closing.

Maybe a spring attached to the door frame to allow some counterweighting to reduce the actuator load?

Perhaps some small momentary pushbutton switches at both ends of travel that could trigger an indicator light to tell you when the door is at the end of travel so that you can release the motor switch?

Whilst I've typed all this, I've concocted an easier/more foolproof approach(I think):
Get a 2nd motor and mount them individually at each door, still driving via the square driverod (albeit a short rod at each door). This allows all the original limitswitching/travel functions to work automatically thru the headlight switch. I don't know if the relay will handle the load of a 2nd motor, but you could always use the original relay to trigger a standard 30 amp '˜Bosch' relay to feed both motors. The voltage reversal is done inside the motor gearbox, I believe.

I'm thinking something around hockeypuck size could have 3 captive bolts into the original motor mounting holes, and then 3 accessible bolts into the door bracketry, similar to how a carburetor adaptor bolts on. Maybe someone with a mill could make them for you and put little middle fingers on them???

Kinda like the turbos, you'll need to mirror-image or flip the motor somehow on one side of the car. Consider that if you want to flip its mounting you can reverse the wiring to make it run the proper direction (unlike the turbos!).

 

The headlight stuff itself is not the short straw, the bracing is. I think technically there's enough room to channel the brace and then a 3-3.5" core would fit. My concern is then making the brace strong enough in the correct places to hold the hood and the headlight motor when operating. I'd rather not get into modifying this part of the car, but it doesn't look like anyone makes a 2-2.5" vertical core. Waiting on this to get the rest of my cold side parts ordered (couplers essentially, have plenty of pipe). Hotside isn't done yet, so I have a little time to keep looking on this.

 

also, I did find close to the right shape from treadstone (I know a somewhat dirty word here)

http://www.treadstoneperformance.co...3&prodname=TRTT Series Twin Turbo Intercooler

but the 3.5" core is a problem

 

I don't know much about the Edelbrock Varijection other than it's no longer around and it's probably not even close to the modern Alcohol systems of today (since these systems evolve every year). The new setups make installing and running Meth a non issue which is ideal in situations like yours. Running low turbo boost and Pre (2-3gph) and Post-turbo (start around 14gph) injection would be ideal here and you'd save yourself time and $$. If you already log MAT temps you'd be able to tune the nozzle size really easily and not worry about intercoolers for a car that looks like a custom one is needed.

Check out
Alky Control
Devils Own
AIS
Labonte Motorsports
Cooling Mist
AEM
Snow Performance

All of these kits will get the job done for you and you don't have to butcher your car or spend a hundred hours figuring out how to complete this custom job.

 

So what's the problem with Treadstone?

 

What compression do you have and how much power does your 383 make. It is very possible an intercooler will provide little gain depending on how you answer these questions.

 

8:75:1 and should have been around 350-375 hp NA with the efi and headers.

 

You do not need an intercooler for 500Hp on a 350Hp 8.75:1 engine period.