I'm using the AJE k-member which does have a poly bushing between the k-member and the mount. turbo will be mounted solid to the car. will there be enough movement in that bushing to need a flex joint? thanks.

 

Don't mount it to the frame is the engine can move. The flex would work for a while before it cracked. It's only to take expansion from heat. It expands once every heat cycle. The engine shaking alone while it runs will put hundreds of heat cycles worth of flexing and bending to the flew just from idling.

 

I'm going to go through the same thing, our last car had solid engine mounts and solid frame mount turbo with no flex. Now i have a AJE k-member too and i hate the idea of the flex joints. I bought soild steering rack bushings, for the rack and they fit nice in the engine mount holes in the k-member. I'm still thinking on this one, i want the engine mounted soild.

john

 

It would be nice if AJE offered a billet sleeve to get rid of the poly bushings.

 

Should be easy enough for a machine shop to lathe something up for you guys.

 

if you do use a flex joint in the hotside be sure to keep an eye on it. It will crack within a couple years and you may not even easily notice it. Also hate the flex joint due to expense. >

 

I had a flex joint fail on the inside! It caused me alot of problems made last year pure hell. I for one will never run a flex joint again.

 

Did you have one that had mesh inside ? Those have been known to come apart like that.

 

Would a V or expension type U help here ?? It's used on thermal gas lines..
Then support area's that can be screwed like manifold flanges so they don't twist & leak ??

 

So for a true street car with rubber/poly engine mounting it is best to hang the turbo from the engine or manifold so everything moves as a unit - that way you wouldn't have to use a flex coupler at all if using mild steel headers/manifolds?

 

yes it sure was. I did not know that it had that or i would have cut it out .

 

Or just use solid motor mounts. I never had issue at all with solids. You have to remember "street" or not you are adding alot of power under the hood that needs to be held stationary.

 

I would have thought it was more to do with heat / expansion....
Esp on the crossover pipe... But if run under harmonic balancer there's no issues as the bend helps
with expansion... Ahaha depends what joint your talking about ??? Lol...

 

Vibrant has "turbo-flex" flex sections with a special interlocking liner sort of thing inside hte flex, not the regular style. Its intented for turbo applications, I run them on my setup, theres nothing to break up and fly down the pipes, and their only a few bucks more than the regular style flex. Seems like a good option if you need a flex in your piping.

 

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Don't use the wire inside ones or this COULD happen.

 

That is what mine was doing had not got that far yet but it did make a nice funnel that a 11/16 socket would not fall through.
The mesh ones suck. Caused me mucho problems that I could not figure out. Put the engine back together and had a thought to check the pipe before installing. Bingo. Bad flex joint

 

How many of you guys are running solid motor mounts? Is it a bitch on the street???

 

As long as it's running on all 8, it's fine. You won't have any issues on the street. Hell my 4cyl coupe shakes my teeth loose and the car with soild mounts is smooth like butter.

john

 

Don't use flex joint with the mesh on the inside
get the interlocking one, i use them on my build,one year later and no problems

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I have solids and I noticed it JUST because it's my car, but for anybody else nobody would know it. So to answer your Q no the solid mounts are great.

That flex joint looks just like flexible exhaust tubing covered in mesh.