I did a search and didnt find the answer i was looking for. if anything some of the topics confussed me more.

I am thinking about ditching my returnless system and going with a return style sytem. i want to use the glenns performance 3/4 tube pick up assembly and run my own lines and use upr fuel rails and a magna fuel regulator.

is there any reason i cant do this?

and how are people running dual intank pumps? im not sure if im missing something here or if they are modifying there tanks or what but right now a 255lph walbro is out of gas and going with an external a1000 and converting to return style seems to be my only option. if im wrong on my assumtion PLEASE correct me and send me in the right direction. thanks.

 

Re: 1998 gt with sumped tank, coverting to return style. dual pumps q's also.

1998 Gt have a oem return style fuel system.!
Here is one way you can do it.

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Re: 1998 gt with sumped tank, coverting to return style. dual pumps q's also.

wow thanks. i thought it did. (cant look at car right now) but was looking around here and saw where people where talking about switching to return style sytems and i was like WTF and did a search and saw where more people where "switching over" they might have been 99+ cars though. but thanks for setting me straight on that. i still want a sumped set up though.

this is my first go at 4.6 cars and im confused with it all. been rocking 5.0's forever and wasnt sure what my options where for this car. once again thank you for answering my retard question.

 

Re: 1998 gt with sumped tank, coverting to return style. dual pumps q's also.

A1000's have a reputation for getting real hot and burning up with a lot if street use. I personally would not use the glenns style tube pickup, especially with that pump. If you are looking to make big power go with the magnafuel pump. Its a little more expensive but many people have had good results with it on the street. I know MMR makes a nice sumped tank, as thats the only way I would feed a big external pump like that, but thats just my opinion.

 

Re: 1998 gt with sumped tank, coverting to return style. dual pumps q's also.

why the price difference?

http://modularmustangracing.com.tempwebsite.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=219&cid=1


http://www.glennsperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=140

 

Drive mine everyday never have any pump issues...!

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go with glens he has a better tank and better prices..i would go with a magnfuel pump also. if something does happen to it you can rebuild it, instead of throwing it away like the a-1000..

 

Aeromotive will rebuilt them!
No need to throw them away............

 

i was looking at glenns site and saw the 98 tanks where by them selves so i emailed them and just got an email back syaing the 98 are unique because they are half 97 and half 99. they told me my tank uses the 99's evap controls and one of there pickup tubes for a 94-97 will not work. it figures i would have to pick an old ball car year.


can anyone tell me if they have a 98 and have run into any problems with using a tank for a 97.

 

Hello BK,

There are a lot of options out there with respect to fuel systems for your car. Based on feedback I receive from both quality speed shops and racers around the country, they're going to return style systems more and more. Bottom line, a dynamic fuel system that provides full fuel flow to and through the rails is heads and shoulders above a dead-end rail when it comes to precise, balanced fuel delivery, to each and every cylinder.

Of course, you can build a dynamic system with a number of manufacturers components, and many of them are very good, perhaps each with strengths and weaknesses. You'll have to do your homework. As far as A1000 pumps "burning up", well it really can't happen, they're completely submersed internally with fuel, whether they're mounted "in tank" or outside. Of course, hot fuel handling problems can occur with any large, high flow fuel system that can support 1,000 HP. That said, barring mistakes in fuel system plumbing that would disadvantage any certain combination of parts, they can all get the fuel hot enough in the tank to experience cavitation and vapor lock purely because of their high flow rate combined with small, stock fuel tanks.

What we've seen lately, where hot fuel handling has become a problem, is with all the alcohol additive in pump gas, you really have to stay on top of your filters, particurlaly the fine, 10-micron filter after the pump. The alcohol is such a strong solvent that it strips varnish and breaks down fuel lines more aggressively, which can clog filters faster. In fact, for the year 2008, the largest culprit responsible for hot fuel handling problems with a correctly installed Aeromotive fuel system was dirty/clogged filters.

When it comes to evaluating various modified, or stock/sumped fuel tanks, there's only one I know of, P/N 18601, that is completely and correctly baffled and divided internally, where you have a true, 3-gallon reservoir built in to the stock tank. This is vital for preventing drivability problems at lower fuel levels during cornering and braking, while ensuring priority fuel control in the baffled area for high load operation. For those that have cars newer than 1998, the 18650 sump (or the new A1000 or Eliminator Stealth Sump) can be installed in any stock tank to achieve the same level of fuel control and to ensure retention of all appropriate EEC equipment.

And, just to set the record straight, we can and do rebuild Aeromotive brand A1000 fuel pumps of all ages, and it's cheaper than buying a new pump. So, after driving 50,000-100,000 miles, which people actually do all the time, you can have it rebuilt if you prefer.

Hope this helps, there's a lot of good advice here on the boards. Let me know if you have any questions.

Brett

PS
If you haven't seen our new "Stealth Tanks" and "Stealth Sumps", you can have your A1000 cake and eat your "in-tank pump" too!

 

yeah just order a fox tank, then call late model restoration and order up the few tank accessories that you need to make the tank work in your car.. sending unit, vent, grommets for the vent and filler neck..

 

i just want to know what the difference is in the two. why would ford do that? it makes no sence at all.

im not worried about the vent tube stuff or anything like that. my main concern is my sending unit to the gauge. if it will bolt into a fox tank im good. does anyone know if it will or not? im thinking about running a sumped tank and wont be using the pick up anyways.

 

yes, you will have to solder some wires...

 

i kinda figures i would have to do some rewirig for an external pump. so i would need to buy a sending unit gor a 96 97 and wire it in place of mine on my 98 and bolt it into the 96-97 tank? if thats all i have to do im good. and thanks for all the help on this.

 

after much searching, i built my own twin a1000 system, i run one for the street and one on a rpm switch with my dfi, but since my secondary pump sits a little higher i set a timer to cycle the pump on startup longer and i hold the fuel in the pump viacheck valves (also from aeromotive, i have driven the car on a 200km cruise in all differnt driving conditions and havent had an issue with it yet, one thing i had to redo was the return line, i ran a huge return line -10 and extra venting on the tank so the tank would go into vacuum, its been working really good and you cant see any of the pumps, well jsut a hint of the one heres some pics

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no problem with my a1000 on street use!
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does mmr make a pickup for the 98 tanks? glenns performance makes on for 83-97 and 99-04 but not a 98. what kind of crap is that.

 

Brett obviously knows what he is talking about, but I can back up this statement with some real-world experience.

I had an overheating issue with my Eliminator, despite it being on a pump controller. I had maybe... a few hundred miles on the system after having installed it. I pulled the 10micron "post" filter and here is a picture of it, next to a brand new filter. It's a little disturbing that the filter got this dirty/clogged after so few miles. I'm not sure why it got that way, but I'm chalking it up to hose debris after cutting/fabricating all the lines and fittings and welding in the sump.

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