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Anyone willing to share Ford 302 turbo A/F & Timing Maps

Discussion in 'EFI Tuning Questions and Engine Management' started by 71swing, Aug 17, 2017.

  1. 71swing

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    I'm just looking for some Mega Squirt A/F & Timing Tables screen shots that maybe I can use as a reference and revert back to when making changes? I don't want them to use on my own car. I'm just looking for something to compare.


    I have a stock block ford 302 with a twin turbo setup. Anyone willing to share a screen shot of your tables with similar setup?


    Thanks
     
  2. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    I have some stuff I'll upload when I get home. Sorry for the late response, haven't been so active on TTF lately
     
  3. 71swing

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    Thanks
     
  4. MustangMike

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    Here's my screenshots from my 93 lx 5.0 single turbo 62-1 precision, "F" cam GT40 heads and edelbrock Performer intake, MS2.
    I never had any issues and crept up on these settings over the course of a year or more. I would pull timing and richen it across the board and creep up on your own optimum settings. The sprk jump at 600 rpm keeps it from stalling if it drops that low, (AC comes on etc). W a stock H&C your setting will be different for sure. DIYautotune has a default stock tune that is downloadable on their site for their plug and play MS product, you can DL and compare to make your own tables.

    Turbo-AFR.jpg #ad


    Turbo-Spark.jpg #ad


    Turbo-VE.jpg #ad
     
  5. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    Dang mike those are pretty aggressive ignition and AFR values. I'm surprised you never had issues at 10psi. Pump gas car?

    OP, his tables look okay but like he said, pull ignition timing and richen AFR's around 100kpa above 2500rpm.

    I forgot to post my stuff last night. I'll try hard to remember this evening.
     
  6. tbird

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    I think Mustang Mikes tune is right in line with a good running safe tune on that boost and SBF. Honestly , thats where I would start .
    I dont recommend going in the 10s for any reason. Better to take more timing out if its being picky. But dont get crazy.
     
  7. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    When I say richen AFR's I really meant at 90 and 100kpa. high kpa values look good to me. If it was me i'd probably richen high kpa low rpm as well to deter knock.
     
  8. tbird

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    totally agree. From 70kpa - 100kpa I would have it going from 13.2 -12.7 by 100kpa
     
  9. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    This is what I have my ignition and AFR set at. My fuel table will be pretty useless to you on e85 with 80lb injectors.

    AFR: My system is batch fired, as most MS2/Microsquirt systems are. These typically produce the most stable idle around 13.5 AFR rather than stoich like a sequential system would. This is the reason for my lower AFR around idle cells.

    upload_2017-9-28_21-17-39.png #ad





    Timing: This should work fine for your combo. I'd maybe drop the circled values by 2° since you're on 93 octane. You don't need to be aggressive until you get to the dyno.

    upload_2017-9-28_21-20-29.png #ad
     
    tbird likes this.
  10. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    Also my car is auto so I have higher idle ignition values to help keep the engine running through the converter. My other manual car needs much less at idle.
     
  11. MustangMike

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2006
    The spark table does look aggressive but that's what the engine liked. I started with the tables out of my A9L factory ecu which is actually at 35 deg at wot at 5500, AFR is actually safe/semi rich. I also used logs I captured from running the Factory ECU on a crane interceptor. Heres a base spark chart with out modifiers from a factory A9L ECU if you want to start there. The factory ecu will add or remove spark from that chart based on engine load and other conditions like air intake temp etc.

    Clipboard Image.jpg #ad
     
    5.0thunder likes this.
  12. 71swing

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    Thanks fellas, I have had the car running for about 3 months and stated with a based tune that came on the MS.

    I have been turning it up slowly here and there alone fixing other problems that pop up alone the way with a build this scale. Here are my current charts let know what you think of them. sorry about late response I didn't get any notifications of any reply for some reason.

    my setup. 302, TF heads, spider intake, 42lb. injectors, Speed density, TF stage1 cam, PD twin headers with t3 To4E turbos internally gated at 7 psi at the moment. I have slight boost creep I'm working on fixing. Once I get that under control I plan to turn the wick up to 10psi. I see 10 psi now but it only at high rpms where I'm shifting at 5500 rpms. Around 4700 is where it starts to creep off of 7 psi. Anyhow tko500 3:27 gears

    I'm new to MS and have been taking it slow. The car runs well as is. I think there is just a little more in her. I'm still working on my boost fuel maps because she still gets a little lean at times in boost off my target. I feel like I'm light on timing but I've been adding it slowly, No where near mustang mikes timing maps above.

    Take a looks at my current maps and give me any advice you have to offer.

    my current afr.png #ad
    my current fuel map.png #ad
    my current timing map.png #ad
    15094461_1500795063267150_8067875460131532166_n.jpg #ad
     
  13. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    Ignition Table looks about right, though you have a lot of timing at idle for a manual car, from what I've seen. If it idles great though, no issue. I'd only start throwing more timing at it when you're at a track or on a dyno, where you can see how your changes are actually effecting times/torque. doing that on a street is a dangerous game to play.

    The AFR table is pretty safe but your top row is odd. I'd use more fuel in the low RPM high load area and less fuel at high load (11.5AFR for most power in boost is the rule of thumb). I have mine set a little richer (11.2 at max boost) because I'm waiting to get on a dyno and I'm on e85 which has a wider tuning window.

    See the below pic of your table. Make the changes in RED first, then grab the 12 cells in the blue box and interpolate horizontally to smooth the transition.

    upload_2017-10-2_7-14-9.png #ad
     
  14. 71swing

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    I don’t have a plan to go over 10psi 172kpa on this stock block. The top row was just kind of a safety net since I’m currently fighting boost creep. I was worried to what would happen if I creep off the graph so I made sure to cover it. I have the overboost protection activate at 180kpa I think and have hit that a few times, it’s scary when it happens. It thought I blew the fucker up the first time it happened. So I don’t have any intention at the time to hit that top row. I had planned to stop here until I can get to a dyno at some point.

    The timing on the idle is slightly high, but it idles great. I of course started out lower like the stock map but it seemed to respond as I added more. I also am at 13.5ish at idle. I also have not messed with any of the idle setting like IAC or anything. I’m still running it in open loop warmup idle. The idle settings intimidate me a little.

    When I get time I’m going to compare your guys maps to my own and see where I can make changes. I still need to work on my fuel map a tad. It has a tendency to lean out here and there. At times I’m seeing 12.5-12.8 in high boost and that concerns me. Early on it seemed I was always rich from my targets but after I trimmed it out it like I sould have left it because it seems like I’m putting it back in now.
     
    5.0thunder likes this.
  15. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    I think your idea bout the map being scaled for overboost is safe. No issue with that in my opinion since it's an issue you're really facing. I do still think you're too rich up top and that your AFR table upper rows are "backward" because you're leaner at low RPM high Load. You normally want that area richer to kill off any chance of detonation, since an engine is more prone to detonate at low RPM high load (like climbing a hill in high gear for example). Very seldom should you actually use that area but it's best to be safe there with ignition timing and AFR. Sounds like it's running okay for now though and you're not really flogging it too much so you likely won't have an issue. This is just something I like to see in my maps.

    13.5AFR at idle is just about perfect for a batch fired system. In reality, you give the engine what it wants, but 13.5 is the rule of thumb for these.

    I think a lot of manual cars are actually pretty successful just keeping the open loop idle settings on. I was intimidated by closed loop tuning at first as well and it does take some time to figure out and dial in. The thing that sucks here is that for some reason every car is different. You can have 5 people post their closed loop settings and they'll likely be different. I'm helping tune a guys car in tennessee from houston (remotely) and his closed loop settings are a good bit different than mine but the car fires up and idles great. just takes time to figure out what your engine wants.
     
  16. 71swing

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2006
    I got no problem adding fuel to that section of the map, I will work on that. Thank you.

    What do people generally uses as a AFR target & timing on decel rpms like in the lower right corner of the map when you just let off the throttle with no load but the rpms are still coming down. Right now I’m set for 14-14.5 & low 30’s on timing in that area. It don’t seem to have any problems just was unsure what to do.

    I also just recently got my 2 step hooked up. It doesn’t pop and bang near what it use to do with my old single turbo setup. I’m guessing the twins calm it down since they are on different banks?
     
  17. 5.0thunder

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2012
    Your AFR and Timing here are normal from what I've seen but a lot of people also use Overrun Fuel Cut which kills fuel entirely during Decel. You may have that feature turned on as well. You could probably throw more timing into that area without issue but I don't really see a reason to if it runs fine and isn't too jerky upon decel. The old cetrifugal distributors had full timing by 2500rpm so everything above that, no matter what load, was full timing. Seemed to work fine for them and they didn't have fuel cut.

    I can't comment on the 2-step yet. I'm in the process of adding that circuit to my MS2 ecu. getting it to pop and bang usually requires extra fuel or very retarded timing, as far as i know. I'll probably keep normal fuel and just retard it to see how much boost it builds. Some people have the 2-step circuit trigger a switched fuel map that goes super rich to throw excess fuel in the hot side. idk if I'll mess with that one.
     
  18. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    I got 17:1 and 50* timing in the lower right side. Basically the area of the map that you only hit on lift throttle decel.
     
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