Almost done having an Amc 401 built, going to have a single turbo, around 7 to 10psi. Since it's going in a CJ7 that will be daily driven and taken offroad. I'm really leaning towards a Drysump system from Avaiad.

Are there any tips or mods to the block that I'd need to do? Aviaid recommended a 4 stage system. So at least one scavenge pump would be pulling from the lifter valley helping with any blow by from boost? Would the oil drain back holes need to be plugged or should they be left open to allow a bit more oil onto the cam? I'm not planning on using a roller cam.

Lotta love going into this engine and i know drysump is the best way to keep an investment like this running.

 

Whats the reason for dry sump?

 

Extreme angles offroad will starve a wetsump pickup.

 

I would not touch the oil drains.
At my previous job (before I retired after 39 years), we used a lot of the Avaiad belt driven oil pumps in our Dyno Engine Testing.
We were very happy with the units. High quality pieces. Go by what they tell you and you will be happy with your Turbo project.
Tom V.

 

Would it still be good to scavenge pcv/oil vapor from the valley?

 

I personally have a Aviaid Dry Sump System that uses a gear pressure pump for moving the oil thru the engine and 3 stages of a roots 2 lobe style system to remove the oil from the pan and the valley area. The scavenge pumps are like a 2 rotor Roots blower system. see link here. They work well on removing the oil and creating a vacuum in the oil pan. from the article. https://www.highpowermedia.com/uploads/docs/535_RET070_Sample.pdf

Roots-type pumps provide a much higher pumping volume than
gear pumps, making them ideal for scavenging applications where it
is desirable to draw in high volumes of oil as well as air, creating a
partial vacuum within the crankcase and reducing windage losses. It is
worth noting of course that generating such a vacuum depends heavily
on the engine builder, and requires effective sealing not only of the
casings but piston rings and so on – simply fitting a scavenge pump
with a high inlet flow is no guarantee of horsepower!

Tom V.

 

Thanks for the help Tom, any other tips for the build? Shooting for maybe 10 psi max, hoping for 650-700hp. Just wanna keep fun and ultra reliable..

Thanks!

 

We made 863 hp with a 455+.030 Pontiac Engine on the dyno at 5300 rpm thru a 750 cfm blow thru carb (13.5 psi of boost) so if you have around 400 cid+ you should make your 650-700 at 10-11 psi of boost. Should be a great lower rpm street engine.

Tom V.

 

I was looking around and it doesn’t seem like it really didn’t catch on that much for off-road like it should have . It would be a major leap forward when crawling steep inclines. It seems those oil accumulators are just band aids anyway. You can’t go wrong drysumping it

 

I may start with an accumulator just to get it installed and running and then get all the parts for the drysump as money allows. Don't know what would be the most efficient way. Wetsump or drysump, an accumulator still seems worth it.

37"s, Sm465 and Low end grunt is the plan. Gearing will be on the higher end since there's no overdrive for road trips. But the turbo should like that. I believe it's a 76/80mm I know the AR is 1.15 not sure what size intercooler to get, but it will have methanol injection

 

As long as you stay at the lower boost levels, I think a Accumulator and the Methanol Injection may be just fine for your efforts.
At some point the Inter-cooler is/should be the next step in our purchases.

Tom V.

 

Would air to air or air to liquid be better for what I'm doing? My old man's tundra pro with the Magnuson blower came with an air to liquid. And even Banks sidewinder kit for the jeep TJ use the liquid cooler as well.

 

If you can't get a fair amount of airflow consistantly across the core (ie...slow speeds) then the a2a isn't a good choice. An a2w can also use a heat exchager that requires air flow, or you can manage temps with ice. Either way, the a2w will excel.

 

Air to Air is better if you are doing the Stop Light bandit routine because every foot that the vehicle moves forward it gets a clean supply of ambient air going thru the Air 2 Air intercooler. If the ambient air is very hot then the cooler effectiveness is the same but the starting point for cooling the air is higher.

With the Water 2 Air the water reservoir makes a big difference. It the reservoir is several gallons in capacity then it takes a fair amount of boosted air heat to raise the temperature of the water very much. He Heat Exchangers that are in the system just bring the water temp down close to ambient air temp.
A one gallon water box will not be able to absorbe a great deal of heat energy before the water temp in the system affects the cooling of the Charge cooler feeding cooled air to the engine.
With Ice and a big water tank you can make 1200 hp on a quarter mile pass and only have the water temp go up about 60 degrees.
So the charge temp might be 120 degrees.
Without the inter-cooler the air charge temp would be over 300 degrees.
For Drag Racing the Ice Water System works Great. Playing on the street with a small water tank and the cooling goes away quickly.
Even a A/C cooled to water Tank system takes over 3 minutes to restore the original water temp in the water tank.
A system using a Air to Water Exchanger will take much longer.

Tom V.

 

Seems with either one, methanol injection would be needed. When offroad going slow or when towing a trailer both are going to become ineffective and heat soak. Being that I'm building this to do a bit of everything is what makes me scratch my head on what's best.

I'm sure a 2 or 3 gallon reservoir could fit somewhere under or in the jeep

 

It all depends on length of time in boost vs recovery time. Heavy equipment that doesn't see adequate air flow for an air to air, and run at rated output for hours on end run an air to water cooler tied into the engines cooling system.... 160-220 degrees is still better than 300+.

 

Since you mentioned Heavier Equipment testing I will post up so info for the members related to one of the tests we used to run for the airflow vs radiator vs intercooler on Trucks at my old job before I retired. http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/towing/1502-sae-j2807-tow-tests-the-standard/

The test is SAE J2807 Towing Test. Most non boosted trucks have a very hard time getting up the Davis Dam to Union Pass Grade (about a 3000 ft climb in only 11 miles). The Boosted Trucks have it a bit better on making the grade but the vehicle temps climb when pulling a combined weight (truck and trailer) around 45,000 pounds. The distance in about 11 miles with a serious grade change.

Victoria Pass Roadway (Mount Victoria NSW) has a similar grade that heavy trucks have to deal with.

The point of all of this being if you have enough thermal mass (water) the water temp flowing thru the inter-cooler does not rise much.

Tom V.