So I got the holley hp installed and running. Still need a little bit of tuning off idle. But the problem I am having is it seems to be hitting the rev limit way early. 5500-5700. I have it set to spark high only (6100 rpm). Am I over looking something? Or should I have the rev limit set to something else?

 

What do u have the low set at?

 

The rev limit I selected only has a option of high. Which is set to 6100. Should I select a different rev limit option that has a low/high limit? And what should those be set to in order to achieve 6100?

 

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On my Holley v4 my main rev over rev has a high rpm and a low rpm the high rpm the low rpm is when the rev limit starts if unable the low set to low when u hit the limiter u it doesn’t come off until u go below the low number

 

I see, under "type" you have spark and fuel selected. I selected spark high only. I will try to change the type of limiter I have and try 50rpm apart

 

How many hours and what was the hardest part of this install? Are there any online guides available? I have a fox, but still wanted to ask.

Thanks

 

It was super easy to install. It was only about 5 wires that needed to be wired up. I did a little at a time. But you should be able to do it in under 8hrs. I mounted the box in the same spot as factory. Ran the harness through the same hole as the factory harness. A few wires go to key on power. Main power and ground along with fuel pump wire went to the battery in the trunk. Only crappy thing is all the other shit you have to buy from holley to make it work if you dont want to cut up the harness. Like the accufab adapters for iac and tps. Which then I bought the correct iac and tps. Input/output harness. It all adds up

 

Man, I’ve had two different techs tell me it’s going to be between 15-20 hours.

How can that be? Just looking for the hp setup with a few extra sensors/parameters than base one.

 

Just get holley 550-606N. Its pretty much plug and play with a few wires to run. It's not that difficult.

 

Will research it and write back

 

I already had the old harness and CPU out any the holley one laid out on the floor. I rough installed the harness marked what I wanted to move in the harness, cut open the harness moved everything and reinstalled it with CPU and ready to power up in about 4hrs. I never did a holley before it was super easy everything was labeled just be careful with your inputs and out puts not everyone can switch anything. That 4hrs did not include running all the in puts and out puts just the ones I needed to run the car.

 

Mike21 is correct, when you get to your input output harness make sure to research what your powering up. Some wires are positive and some are negatives. Some thing are reccomended to be powered up with a positive feed. And some are reccomended to be powered up with a negative feed. On my setup I did not need any input outputs to make the car run. They just run my boost controller solenoids and fan

 

Would I be foolish if I went this route and just kept my electric fans separate on my console switch? I’d rather not waste inputs or options if it is unneeded if that’s how it works?
I have a switch currently for fuel pump, one for one electric fan, and last for an electric fan and tach.

 

The fan will save you a output. But the fuel pump is not part of the input/output harness. It's part of the main harness. You could leave the fan, but I would use the hp for the fuel pump if it was my car

 

I am using 1 output for my iac (not necessary if u use a Chrysler type I used a ford bc I had it) 1 output for my fans, and one output to trigger nos.
I used 1 Input for 2 step, 1 Input for 3 step, a input for ac, and a input for nos arm. I also set up a data log switch button on the same ckt as my ac. So that if I have a problem an physically want to override my logger on ( I'll have it come on automatically at anything above 90% throttle for 1 min usually) I have that pin loaded just not pin mapped and unmap my ac to be able to map my switch. Still have not tried or wired everything yet but that is how I drew it out

 

My last output is going to be my shift light

 

So the rev limiter starts at the low rpm? Not the high rpm? I was having a little trouble under standing your post

 

It depends on which one you choose. If you choose soft the low setting is when the soft starts the high setting is when hard cut starts.
If you are using hard cut the high is when the rev kicks on land the low is when it shuts back off.

 

+1
The difference between low and high is the historysis. Its the range at which the limiter is active.
On retard based systems the low number sets the begining of the retard and the high setting sets the rpm of max retard and then preumably a hard cut that inlcudes spark or fuel or both.
On soft cut systems it works the same only it starts to cut either spark or fuel at low rpm setting and begins to cut progressivly more spark or fuel events as it gets closer to the max number.
On regular old hard rev limit setups that cut all spark or all fuel at a given rpm, it will do so at the high rpm setting and stay "off" untill the rpm drops below the low rpm setting. So if you say set the rpm high point to 6k and the low rpm to 1k the engine would hit limit at 6k and shut off either fuel or spark or both and not refire until the engine fell all the way down to below 1k rpm.

 

Exactly what I was trying to say just explained a whole lot better