Anyone care to weigh in on the advantages and disadvantages of an electric fan vs a belt driven fan on a street/strip engine?

 

A good clutch fan will pull more air for the streets...
Also a OEM style electric fan will to fine as they have been engineered to run the rigures(sp) , but it'll cost you an upgraded alternator.

If you going to run electronics: fuel pump, ecm, water pump, power windows,etc. it would make sense to do the alternator and just add the electric fan.

I run an HHR fan which works awesome.

 

I run 4 electric 10" fans for maximum radiator coverage. One is on a thermostat, the rest are switch operated. The car would run 160* all the time if I run them 100% of the time. I also put in a 60 amp alternator and ran a line straight to the battery positive ( and added a sep fuse block) to prevent the stock wiring from being overloaded

The one on the thermo will toggle on and off as the car cools. It also blows across the turbo and cooler lines to help cool that when it sits.

 

I was originally thinking of a fan off a ford taurus. I am also looking at running a small fan and rad off a 1000CC Sport bike for the air to water intercooler setup. Im not going to be running power windows or electric water pump and am thinking about running a belt drive fuel pump with FAST XFI EFI.

 

I have a dual 10" pulling through the intercooler and then a single 18" pulling through the rad. I use a 90 amp alternator but wish I had a better one. So far testing has looked good but I have only ran it a couple hours in 70* weather.

 

Wow, that sounds like a killer fan setup Shaker. Do you you have shrouds around any of those? I have been considering a similar setup only using two 10" fans on one side and a single 16" on the other in front of my turbine, but haven't decided yet.

 

I have been running a 16", 2950 cfm electric on a griffin radiator with a custom aluminum shroud. The fan is on a key hot temp switch w/relay and comes on whenever it's needed. I will never run a mechanical fan again. The temp stays so consistent now that engine temp is the last thing I think about...and I live in Florida!
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...RM-19115&N=700 400006 301218 115&autoview=sku

 

Here is a pic...sorry for the funky colors...My camera wigs out sometimes. Anyway, they are cheap ebay fans that are rated at 1600cfm each (not sure if it is true but they work great) I had one go bad and they swaped it no questions asked. I've had them on for 2 years now and they cool better than the single 16" fan I originally had. The seller is thunderchicken....if you need more, let me know. $20 each and I saved on shipping when I ordered 4.

I had to trim them a little but I get nearly 100% radiator core coverage. I can let the car idle up to 200* and flip them all on and Just idling it brings the car down to 170* in about 2 min or less.

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I think having it straight to the batt in and OEM charging setup may cause lower voltages to your fans. The regulator sits upstream of some resistance in the charge circuit to the batt so it may not completely account for the draw. There were some good posts on the c body dry dock about this this spring. I asked some stuff with regards to my 1 wire conversion.

As I understand it, the OEM charge circuit has some built in resistance due to the length and gauge of the wire used to drop the voltage to the batt from 14v. You may be better off drawing power from the starter solenoid.

And, if you still have your OEM ammeter and all factory wiring, the whole harness is seeing the fan draw even though you're connected at the batt. The charge wire for the batt runs through the bulkhead, up to the ammeter, and back out. Lots of other accessories get their power from a couple big splices in that circuit.

 

Actually, I have the alt charge the normal accessories through the normal wiring. Seperately from this, I also run a wire right from the back of the alt to the starter positive. I also wired in a seperate voltage gauge to monitor the power needs of this "alternative" power side which is where the fans are located. I also checked everything with my amp meter and the fans draw on the correct side.

 

In your setup I would suggest drawing power for the fans from the starter pos. where your 2nd charge wire is. This would be to ease the current coming across the OEM charge wire to the batt. That wire has a fusable link in it. It is possible the voltage reading at the starter post is higher than what you're seeing at the battery, depending on the condition of that charge wire.
Sounds like you've thought it through some already, just adding ideas I've learned the hard way since these electrical systems can be touchy. The guys with the old trucks like Curtis have it even worse!

 

f-70, all of the high load aftermarket stuff is off of the starter positive and new fuseblock. The new added wire from the alt to the starter is either 4 or 6 ga wire (3/8" copper). I knew the stock wiring was not up to snuff for the task ahead. With every accessory on including headlights and stoplights the system in total draws 56 amps. I forget how much through the stock harness and how much through the new one. Either way, it has been working w/o problems for 2 years!!

 

sweet been lookin for this