I am working on a friends sn-95 efi stang with a holley systemax intake, and the aeromotive fuel rails that come with the complete aeromotive fuel system. After installing these parts we cannot get the dist. in because the housing will not clear the driver's side fuel rail. Not even close!!!!! There is no outlet on that side, it is just the plugged rail. We were considering trying to lean the fuel rails out a little to gain extra clearance, but it looks like that would not work, putting the inj. at a very bad angle in the bung. It also looks like the outlet fitting on the pass. side may hit too once the dist. is fully seated, but not nearly as bad. Anyone else have this problem???? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Darren

 

I've seen a few set of Aeromotive rails that had the end cut off and a 45 degree leg welded to them, the problem is after this is done the joint is very close to the injector boss.

You would have better luck either sanding on the distributor (base plastic piece for clearance) or putting a set of Pro-M fuel rails, possibly the Behind Bars Race Cars style one's on it, they are made well and make it a simple bolt on.

see below.. .



BBRC rails

Pro-M rails. See fuel delivery section.

 

External coil packs :tu:

 

LOL, funny you mention that. We have been trying to get this car to run for the last 6 mos. with an Aem ems, msd crank trigger, msd cam synch, and electromotive coil packs!!! This weekend we decided to hell with the coil packs, we are gonna start this thing with a dist!!!! Then after taking the coil packs off, this is our new situation I give up!!!!

 

I think they had this issue an a MM&FF article and they just clearned the distributor, carefully of course

 

We already did that too. It got us past the grey housing, but then where the housing flares to meet the cap, it hits again. BIG TIME!!! I would say near 1/2 an inch!!!

 

Well they may have did a little to the rails as well.

Would a "mini" distributor work you think? The short/squished ones?

 

We looked at grinding on the fuel rails as an option, but it would take too much to do any good. We also considered the smaller dist., but according to aem, their ecu will not work well with an aftermarket dist. Something to the tune of the stock dist.'s have much tighter tolerances, and if you use an aftermarket dist. that is not as precise from spark to spark, then the timing maps will not be correct. I dont understand why, I thought the dist. was sent information, not resposible for any input to the ems????? Big mess!!!! Maybe they meant you could not use an aftermarket dist. for cam synch, but I dont think that was the case. How easy all of this new technology makes our lives!!!

 

- I don't know what Needa said. . . . it's blocked.

My comment - Just change rails and be done with it, your fighting it to much. ..

Both the rails above will work perfectly, the Aero's are a crappy fit, which is beyond obvious anyway. .

 

I know It's just that every now and then I would like to fix something with just tools, no new parts.

 

Have you thought about using the UPR billet adapter piece? This allows you to use a stock distributor but allows you to ditch the big bulky top cap and rotor for a more smaller compact one. It may work.

 

I've never heard of that, it sounds like a vey good option. I am going to go look on the UPR site right now and see if it will work. Thanks!!!

 

btw, I like your avatar. I have the "wraith" at home and watch it every few months. That was one of my favorite movies as a kid!!!

 

order the UPR Products billet small distrubitor cap adapter, worked wonders on my SN95.

 

.

 

what the................. needa changed his avatar again. ARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!






p.s. pretty cool one though (this coming from an ex gn owner )

 

Ah yes, I have the full size pic if you want it

 

Me too:tu:

 

LOL! Now back to helping droptop dammit!

 

Hi
I went thru this nightmare before, and just ended up ditching the aeromotive rails for pro-m peices. The upr cap dist. will work. I have a complete kit with a red msd cap (brass post) with about 50 miles on it.

Its prefferable to use the large cap. Going to the small cap is a step backwards actually. I would suggest getting different rails, and making the large cap work if you can.

Is there really a difference between the big and small? Not really, I didnt notice anything. From a performance staidpoint, the larger is better since the post are further apart.

I had a holley intake, with pro-m rails, and I made the large cap clear with a little grinding on the cap. So yes, you can make it work if you dont want to go with the small cap.


Email me if you need that kit, its just collecting dust.

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