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A way of safely injecting fuel into a turbo exhaust header?

Discussion in 'Advanced Tech Section' started by Stav, Jul 11, 2010.

  1. Stav

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2004
    As title really. As part of a EGR ALS system. It isnt practical to simply let the engine over-fuel and missfire on this setup.
    Heat is obviously the big issue, as in any kind of injector etc wouldnt handle that kind of heat.

    Doesnt have to be too precice, so a single injector or nitrous solenoid would work IF it could safely take that heat, and surely, it couldnt.

    Unless its injected prior to the EGR valve, but that gives a longer route for the fuel to travel down, which kinda is asking for trouble.

    Any practical ideas? :huh:
     
  2. vern

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    How bout propane through a 3/16 " line
     
  3. Turbo Terror

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    I would just use a nitrous nozzle thats all stainless and a nitrous solenoid. i would just run hardline from the nozzle to the solenoid. it should dissipate more than enough heat for it to be reliable and you can change jet sizes also
     
  4. Stav

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2004
    Turbo terror- That did spring to mind, and as you say, easy to change jets, but presumed the exhaust heat (i mean, we talking 1600+ at times no doubt) wouldnt dissipate enough?
     
  5. Turbo Terror

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    i think it should handle it no problem and you can always run the solenoid in a cool place to begin with and the line will cool off better the longer it is. and the exhaust will not be flowing through the line to the solenoid so the heat will have a harder time running up the tube
     
  6. AlkyV6

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2009
    I'm planning to use a stainless nitrous fogger nozzle and setup very similar to what was suggested, with nitrous and methanol. As long as the feed lines are long enough, heat should not be a problem.
     
  7. bgjohnson

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2004
    One thing I would only be slightly worried about is when the line is partially drained, what prevents the heat to creep up the line and blow it out with existing gas fumes left in the line? Kind of like a combustion from so heat in the line.

    The actual valve being at the end would solve this potential issue. But obviously it's not really an option

    I know the nozzle opening is so small the chance of a flame going into the line would be minimal. Just a thought you may want to consider.
     
  8. AlkyV6

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2009
    I've begun injecting the nitrous/methanol that I proposed earlier in the thread. ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!
    I'm up to a 65 shot now with no plans to increase it, because I don't think the chassis can handle anymore!
    In 2 seconds on the system, it has pushed my 3200 rpm stall TC to over 6,000 rpm and over 210 kPa MAP. This is a 224 cid V6 spooling up an Airwerks S510/91mm turbo. This is a turbo that even scares large V8s!
    I've checked out the nozzle and the lines after a few test outings and everything looks peachy keen.
    The problem I'll be dealing with now is taming the new found power down for a sane launch. YIPPEEE!
     
  9. bgjohnson

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2004
    Sweet man!

    Glad it worked out for you and you are having no issues.

    I forgot to read the date this thread started. Oops!
     
  10. 68mustang

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    so basically you are just injecting nitrous/methonal into the hotside pre-turbo?

    would this work on a footbrake car as well? would i be able to make some boost without powerbraking the car?

    im relectant to go with a manual vb/transbrake but i want to build some boost off the line and not kill my transmission footbraking it. give me your thoughts and input!
     
  11. Turbohwagon

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2005
    As long as there isn't exhaust gas that is actually flowing, the line will not get nearly as hot as the actual EGT. If the solenoid closes and will not let the back pressure flow into the fuel on the other side, i do not see a problem. I second the NOS fogger and hardline.
     
  12. 10secgoal

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    You shouldn't have a problem if you have a 9in and a good driveshaft.
     
  13. 68mustang

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    you mean the factory 8" and stock driveshaft wouldnt cut it? i love this idea though, i may have to do it after upgrading some parts
     
  14. Turbohwagon

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2005
    An 8" is very similar to a 9", but the factory limited slip isn't all that strong. I did one 4000rpm trans brake drop on 12" mickey dot street tires and i broke: all 4 spider gears, the diff pin, and cracked the carrier. Lets not get started on the stock "Pencile" driveshaft lol.
     
  15. 10secgoal

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    Nope, twisted mine into almost 3 pieces on the dyno with a 100 shot.
     
  16. 68mustang

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2010
    :D yea i was kinda joking bout the 8" being strong enough, im actually surprised its lasted this long. i did put a racheting locker in it, and i have no trans brake so thats helped.

    i def wont try this until i get the car beefed up some
     
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