I am going to be in need of new rear suspension and all i ever read is people saying the quality, how the owners responded back to you etc. etc. I want to see what everyone's 60 ft is and what manufacturer they use. I think this thread is long overdue but i may be wrong. So who's dead hooking and with what manufacturer, i think everyone will benefit from this thread. Thanks guys

 

I cant speak for anyone else, My own car has been 1.27 60' on a worn out set of slicks and a 9.56 all motor pass, I have a ton of guys on BFG's going low 1.30's and mid 1.20's on Mickeys, I also have customers that race true 10'' tire stuff down south and have been as good as 1.19 60'.....I'm sure this thread will soon turn into a pissing match I hope it dosent, but I can prety much bet that next year you'll se a very BIG improvement in the 60' times of some racers

 

My guess is that is why the database was started. To avoid the pissing matches by having you look through the database and looking around and making your own call on what you see.
Call around talk to people do some leg work. I see this post just turning ugly, it's the internet people can make up whatever they want.
I think you will get way more out of a suspension by talking to the people making the stuff and forming a relaitionship with them so you have someone good to go with questions, set-ups, problems, etc. I think that would be a way more benifical way to look at a purchases like this.

Sorry if I sounded like a prick that is not the way I wanted it to come out that way but it's the only way I could think of.

 

like dave said- no pissing matches

all i can tell you is wolfe-team z are all close in 60 footers- its all in what you want-both team z and wolfe have great products- both guys are good at what they do-

 

All of these Upper and lower control arms connect two points in a way that allows adjustment of length.

The ONLY functional difference in the arms themselves is going to be strength/stiffness and possibly ease/difficulty of adjustment. They are all typically of Chrome-Moly contruction, so the only difference in strength/stiffness is going to be down to O.D. and wall thickness. Is there a stiffness/strength difference between a UPR and a Wolfe arm?? If there is, is it going to make a difference in your car (60')?

Looking at the TeamZ KIT (not just their arms) you also need to consider the upper housing brackets, this essentially changes you rear axle instant center geometry, depending on your car setup this might be a benefit, I would also argue that in some cases it might be wrong for a particular car. The only other rear arm kit/system that changes the geometry (other than arm length) is the Auto Weld Chassis stuff.

Please note, I'm not making a judgement here about any companies offering, only trying to lay out some of the questions you need to ask yourself when making a choice.

 

im not going to say anything on this other that we've been in the mustang suspension business for 13 year

 

I really don't want to get this thread in a pissing match. I just wanted to see some folks who use different companies post some 60ft times and see how they like the product.

 

assuming you are using quality parts in place of all the stock components on the car, then the difference in performance will come down to the tuning much more than it will the name on the parts sticker

fwiw my cobbled together car has suspension parts from Team Z, Wolfe, BMR, UPR, AFCO, D&D, PA Racing, Lakewood, and UMI all on it, and i am happy with all of them.

 

Interesting

 

it would be like comparing apples to elephants though

unless the suspension components were tested on the same car at the same track on the same day its all speculation on what works better. one type of suspension set up may work better on a car with an automatic and no transbrake then another would on a manual car with drag radials. take a look at the chassis database and find a combo similar to your and see what they are running and what they are using.

 

THAT is absolutely why it was created.

Thanks for pointing it out.

 

What is important to me is that I can get down the track. I have not had an aborted pass because of traction in three years. OK, once this year when I was way, way, way off on the leave tune up. The other time I was way, way, way, way, way off the starting line tune up it cost me a trans.

I go low 1.30s on every pass.

 

you dont count TIM your slow :stroke: LMFAO

 

I'm really starting to believe how you have your weight distributed in your car plays the biggest roll..

On my car, with all UPR rear suspension stuff, I have gone a 1.27 sixty foot.. But I'm sure my car was too light in the rear end.. Cause even after getting it scaled, so that it would go straight.. If it got out the groove, it would push to the left or the right, and it could NOT be nursed back.. Even at 1000 foot, I've had to abort runs cause of tire spin...And this is with 11.50x28 slicks..

I'm sure with an extra hundred pounds in the rear, it would have sixty footed even better.. And hooked better down the track..

 

When comparing chassis companies like Team Z, Wolfe, and Skinny Kid youre gonna get great stuff....

Stay away from gas tank cover companies like UPR....they are an accessory company, not a chassis company...Stamped parts dont belong under a race car. Stick with racecar builder's parts.

As far as 60fts....thats your whole car, you cant credit a specific part for it.

Ive been 1.24 on Wolfe's stuff....

People have been faster and slower with every other brand.

Once you start going really fast on small tires, you cant stop the car from moving around....youre driving into a 160 mph headwind.

Team Z is the most supportive company on this site....If I were buying today, I would take that into consideration.

 

The database is very helpfull i was just browsing it. I guess my old control arms were good for what the car was making. Hotckis uppers and lakewood lowers cutting a 1.58 60' going 12.01 @ 115 with a t5 as a trans, but i wanted to try a different set with the new glide and turbo setup...

 

I went 1.37-1.38 on the first and only 4 passes the car ever made with a 420 rwhp N/A 347.
The pinion angle was set and that was it. This was with full TRZ stuff in the rear. This was over 4 years ago and I plan on using all the same stuff with 1000+hp I have now.

It would be a toss up for me now if I switched, you can't argue with the success rates of the Team Z and Wolfe stuff or UPR for that matter but as someone stated above I would stick with a chassis type shop. I would also maybe look into the Racecraft Inc. stuff seams to look pretty decent. If looking for proven performers it would have to be Wolfe or Team Z, give them a call see who seem to get along better with and who would be more willing to be there for you down the road.

 

I'm not trying to compare suspension componets, but I just want to put this out for you to chew on...

The first time I ran my car, I was unlicenced and the chassis was not certified.. The track official told me NOT to go quicker than a 10.00 flat in the quarter.. With my boost turned as low as I could get it, I made a first pass of a 9.99 at only 107 mph on the brakes.. It ran a 5.81 at 118 in the eighth mile..

Durning that first pass, with only the pinion angle set on my fully adjustable, solid bushing UPR suspension.. The car ran straight as an arrow.. I could have gone low low 9's without really adjusting anything..

But when I upped the boost durning subsequent licence runs.. The car began to run 5.6's at 124 in the eighth.. And it became TOTALLY UNDRIVEABLE.. There is no way in hell I could of made a full quarter mile pass at that power level without having the suspension dialed in..NO WAY .. It was after I had the car scaled and the weight distribution adjusted, that it started to go down the track..

Something for you to keep in mind as you go for your 1000 hp goal ...

 

I would really like to thank all of you for the kind words, we really do try hard to make quality parts and keep improving the way they work, We are just a small shop, It's me and one other full time guy and a couple part time employees, some times we cant get to the phone, altho I spend about 3-4 hours a day on the phone and the internet teching people! But again I would like to say thanks and that I am very proud to even be considered in this conversation, it means that I am doing somethig right! There are allot of good parts out there and allot of competition,but we will continue working and trying to improve our parts, and offer our customers the best parts for their hard earned money!
Tim got a look ant our new stuff this weekend, if he would like to comment, he knows I have been trying to improve the part while bringing down the cost, for almost a year now, and I think we have gotten it to a point where it will be affordable and work better than anything we had before!

Again Thanks!

 

Thanks for the advice, I'm planning on getting it scaled and all the things that go along with it. Believe me I am all about safety.