New to the forum. 2002 silverado with single turbo setup. I’m at the point now where I need to know what sensors can be removed or which ones need to be left on. I’m wanting to finish the cold side and don’t know what to do with the maf. Also how much can a stock Ecm be reconfigured to compensate for the turbo. I’m trying to get it to point where everything is physically in place before I take it to a tuner. Parts are- 78/75 turbo, cam, springs, rods, intercooler, deka 80s, 450 walbro pump, 2bar map, air fuel sensor, boost gauge. Hot side and cold piping is done as well as cam etc installed. It also had 4 02 sensors. The two post catalytic sensors are removed. I’ve yet to install the bov because I’m not sure about the maf sensor. I’m sure this has been discussed somewhere but I’m unable to find the answers I’m needing. Thanks

 

The maf depends on how you plan to tune it. Some leave the maf in place, and tune with the stock ecm as is, others flash the ecm with a speed density operating system, and no longer need the maf. The maf works well with lower boost levels, but many go right for the sd tune.

 

I will probably boost up to 10 to 15 pounds. Would the maf be able to read at those levels? I was planning to have the stock ecm reflashed. Trying to not spend more than I have too but also don’t want to limit the build and constantly be redoing the ecm.

 

The 0411 pcm can handle most things you throw at it. I would go straight to SD if it were me.

 

What all should I expect to change to go to sd?

 

Toss the MAF and the rest will be in the tune. Need at least a 2 bar MAP sensor though.

 

Cool, I did buy a 2 bar map which wasn’t much. I did talk to the local tuner shop and they told me I should get a digital boost controller . I believe it was eboost 2 or e2 boost. Kinda pricey. Wasn’t sure on your thoughts about it. I had looked at an aem didital that was around 300 and skipped it. The guy seemed to push his product somewhat. I’m sure it works great just didn’t want to spend 500 bucks for a digital gauge.

 

I used an old basic manual boost controller for a long time with good results. Just because its expensive does not mean its better .

 

I would take out the maf sensor. You'll need to add a separate IAT sensor since it is built in to the maf sensor from the factory. Truck will run just fine on speed density.

 

Where do you guys usually mount the iat? Also I’m guessing I should install a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. I have the walbro 450 installed with deka 80s now. Is this something I should go ahead and get installed. Also my truck 2002 silverado, has a gm factory regulator installed on the fuel rail. I would assume that would have to be removed.? I’m hoping someone has a similar setup. I also have a return fuel line.

 

IAT location https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/how-to-section/installing-iat-in-truck-intake
Or you can weld an aluminum bung in the cold piping. The truck pressure regulator is fine if you're keeping the stock intake, just give it a good boost reference. You can get a decent, low boost/high boost controller for cheap on amazon

 

I guess I need to fully understand how injectors and the regulator work together. My regulator is a built into the fuel rail housing. Will the 80 lb injectors and 450 pump work correctly with the stock regualtor? I don't know the capabilities of the regulator. I'm trying to get all the parts installed prior to taking it to be tuned. I'm not wanting to pay the dyno shop tons to install parts I should of already installed. If anyone has a complete setup of how to install the fuel delivery would be awesome and a very big help. What I have installed now is walbro 450 in tank pump, siemens deka 80 injectors. Fuel system is a return style. Through searching I've seen people remove the stock regulator and cap off the hole in the fuel rail, then install a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. I suppose the real question is will I need a boost referenced regulator. Also is the stock wiring to fuel pump capable of handling the new pump? It says a minimum of 12 guage wiring. looking at it I would guess I'm at that point. Anyone have trouble with the wiring or had to upgrade to bigger guage wiring?

 

Check out this site. A lot of good info for diy that will lead you in the right direction with your build. https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/

 

The purpose of the regulator is to maintain 43 psig of fuel to the top of the injectors when the intake manifold sees no boost pressure. When the intake does see boost, the boost referenced regulator will raise fuel pressure by the same amount. It would be wise to run a dedicated power and same diameter ground to the fuel pump.
Get on youtube and look up Sloppy Mechanics, there is a lifetime of info there.
Also, the pressure regulator you choose will have a 1/8" NPT plug for a gauge. Feel free to use a gauge to set the static pressure. But I strongly recommend you install an 1/8" NPT fuel pressure sensor and run an electrical gauge to the dashboard. Your fuel system WILL become insufficient as you go faster. When your fuel pressure starts falling off at higher rpms you will have reached the limits of your system; whether it's due to the pump, the lines, the injectors, or the rails.

 

The stock regulator will work fine with your setup. Stock fuel pressure is 58 not 43 on your truck. No need to overthink this your pump will supply enough fuel to max out those injectors. I've setup several vehicles just like this.

 

is map sensor MPS706 a 2 bar? I ordered this a while back and I'm sure I researched it but now I'm second guessing myself. Bought this on ebay, if this is the wrong one, which gm vehicle could I tell the autoparts store so I could get one? Not sure what gm boosted vehicles there are. Thanks.

 

Nope, that's a stocker. http://www.on3performance.com/shop/gm-2-bar-map-sensor-fbody-truck/

 

http://www.powerandsignal.com/Products/Product/16235939, I found it. This is a Delphi.