Hey guys. I have been getting the mustang to running condition again. I have taken a while off and doing nothing with the car. I have in the last month got it so I can take some runs down the road.

Here is a quick run down of my setup: Stock internals motor, stock heads, Cobra intake, 42lb injectors, intank walbro 255lph fuel pump, flipped shorty headers into a home made crossover to a driverside mounted turbo, currently a MP60-1 turbo plumbed in (I have a spare brand new MP T70 in the box), FMIC, Tial 38mm WG (just under 6 psi spring), Blitz blow off valve, car is converted to mass air and I have a PMAS pro tube calibrated to 42lb injectors. Running 1 step cooler autolite plugs. I have an FMU hooked into the return line.

Do you guys think the FMU is needed in this application, or will the 255 lph fuel pump, PMAS blow thru tube and 42 lb injectors do the trick.

I had an MSD Programmable 6AL-2 hooked in, but I have no way to get my laptop to change any of the settings. I purchased the usb adapter for the 9 pin serial port, but the laptop won't recognize so I had to unhook it. Right now I am just running the stock 10 degree's timing and with only just under 6psi of boost I am not holding my foot in it very long. With the FMU hooked in the car seems rediqulously rich and seems like its bogging once boost hits.

If I missed anything else, just ask. I will answer any other questions, but I am really wondering about my fuel situation. I would really like to get the car running right. I have pondered the thought of taking the turbo off and running NA. I must be missing something.

Any help is greatly appreciated!! I can take some photo's and I could try to upload a video. too

thanks! #ad

Fred

 

Take the fmu off and throw it in the trash. Take the car to get a real tune. An fmu is a pos that just jacks fuel pressure way up, with 42# injectors you're probably pouring raw fuel out the exhaust.

 

This^^ I'm running a similar setup. 225 in tank with a inline msd pump. Blow through mass air with 42lbs injectors. Tuned by Dave Guy at DGR performance here in PA. Using an SCT chip. 535hp to the wheels through a 5 speed on 12 lbs. Stock bottom end.

 

This and that ^^ I'm running a stock 92 longblock with an E-cam and a Edelbrock performer intake. 90mm cobra maf & 42lb injectors. Tuned by Lidio at Alternative Auto here in the burbs of Detroit. Using an SCT chip made 433rwhp/460rwtq on a 5-spd car running 8psi.

 

FMUs are just bandaids. Do yourself a favor and get it tuned or buy something like moates quarterhorse or megasquirt and tune it yourself

 

10 deg isn't enough timing your gonna cause excessive EGTs Your gonna have to bump it up.Instead of an fmu you should install a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator start around 40psi & tune from there. Do you have a wideband it would be a good investment you want around 11.5 - 12 afr

 

By 10 deg stock timing, Ill assume you mean 10 deg static (with the spout plug out). with the spout plug plugged in, if i remember right, its 36 deg total timing. 36 is high for boosted engines. if your just running that 6 psi spring, its not horribly bad, but i would turn it down to at least 30 total timing. That fmu is and 42# injectors are definitely adding way too much fuel, especially if the MAF is in a blow thru setup. I would get rid of the fmu. There are a lot of people doing self tuning with nothing more than the factory computer. Its time consuming, and your not optimizing your engine like you would at a dyno and tuning session. But if your interested in doing it yourself, I will list some steps that Ive done on a buddies car. I do have mechanical and military vehicle/tank engine schooling and 11 years experience working on anything from normal cars to military vehicles and tanks, to city buses, gas, diesel and turbine engines, but would recommend to have a tuner do it to get the most and safest power out your car. Here we go...


All of this has to be done with your car up to operating temp and exhaust hot (normally the exhuat is hot when the car is at temp and the car running for atleast 5 min.,different cars start using close loop at different times or other conditions, such as some older hondas will not go into closed loop until the car has been running for 2 consecutive min regardless of coolant temp. but ive never seen a car that was more than 3 min)

(1) Start with backing off the timing to 6 deg static. Doing this first as timing will affect your air/fuel mix ( your car may have a studder or miss at idle from this, my buddies car didnt though)
(2) Plug in a multimeter into the MAF and place the meter in the car and have someone watch it while your drive the car. hopefully youll see a low reading around .2v to .5v at idle.
(3) Drive the car at WOT. you may need to do this in 2nd or 3rd gear to watch it more carefully. Record the number max voltage and if you see 4.7v or 4.8v (which is maximum on most cars), record at what rpm that happened.
(4) Adjust the meter so that you see no more than 4.5v at WOT (most cars go into open loop above 70%-75% throttle which is 3.29v-3.525v using 4.7v for max voltage) Im not familiar on on the pmas if they have adjustments, this is hard to explain but I used the factory MAF sensor and went to autozone and bought a 3 inch diameter exhaust pipe about 4 inches long, and cut a hole in it about half way on the pipe, put in a o-ring around the sensor, welded nuts on the pipe to hold the meter, went to home depot and bought a very small steel hollow pipe that would fit around the MAF sensor that was in the pipe section for yard stuff. with that, i cut it down to just cover the sensor on the steel intake pipe we bought from autozone. welded it to the intake pipe and welded the open side of the exposed side in the intake pipe so that the sensor was completely enclosed and would not read any boosted air. From there, I started with the tiniest drill bit i could find and drilled through the small pipe where the sensor would read air.
(5) Drive the car around and watch your MAF voltage, it should read very low. If you start to get into boost and you only see .5v volts or even 1 v, STOP and use a slightly larger drill to increase the hole for the MAF sensor. If you see 2v or more by the time you see boost, keep in it until you either will shift or if you see no more than 3v by 5k rpm. repeat drilling until you have 4v and then stop drilling (this will leave you room for when you want to up the boost a little). Keep in mind where at what rpm you plan to never take the engine past. You dont want to have more than 4v at your peak rpm, such as you never take it past 6k, so it should read no more than 4v at 6k.
(6) Now plug your multimeter into your o2 sensor, somewhere in the harness where it not too close to the exhaust so not to burn your meter leads.This is where it gets tricky, you o2 sensor should read between .1 and .8v or .9v (normally fluctuating between .15v-.75v with the car running and the exhaust hot, thats key, your exhaust has to be hot) Voltage reads are interpreted by the computer and defined by the manufacture, so 14.7:1 maybe 4.5v by one company or .5v for another, but are right around those numbers. However, you min voltage and max voltage is a stab in the dark as those can be very different from manufacture to manufacture. Drive you car at WOT and watch for max voltage, the higher the number, the richer you are (You should be maxing out the o2 sensor). After you see your voltage, you will need to adjust fuel pressure. Make sure you do this with a pressure gauge, engine running and vacuum hose disconnected and cap the vacuum line. Adjust it by 4-5 psi and driver the car again. When you see and large change in your voltage reading (like going from .9v to .5v, start adjusting the fuel pressure by 1-2 psi with the above steps. If you see lower than .6v while driving the car at WOT, STOP and adjust the fuel pressure up about 2 psi and retry. You want to aim for roughly .7v. Of coarse, if you have access to a tail pipe sniffer that will show air/fuel ratio, that would be best and could be found at a local tech school if you convinse a student there to help you or sometimes a tool truck like snap on may be willing to help you.
(7) Your done! Enjoy your car. Just remember, tuning with a dyno is always the best and safest way, but at least this method I wrote up will be the safest and best way you can do with a stock and unmodified computer.

Let me know how it turns out and hopefully this helps.
V8_Kind_Of_Guy

 

Another way to adjust the timing if you want to spend the money is to set the timing on your car to 10 deg static, buy a msd ignition box and a msd boost retarder. the msd unit has an adjustment to retard timing that you can set, like 2 deg per pound of boost (which would be 12 deg from your total timing, so 24 deg total timing at full boost if your at 36 deg total). This way it takes timing out automatically and only when it sees boost so that your car will be more street friendly (safer too).

 

Hey Fred, I got a USB adapter with my wideband, and my laptop didn't recognize it either. (using XP, SP3) I went to the website for the company that made the adapter and downloaded the drivers for it, now it works like a champ. I use it for my MSD box too.