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1976 short wide box c10 cheyenne truck HX40

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by tsb, Dec 11, 2011.

  1. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    engine:
    355 small block chevy
    rebuilt with stockish bottom end, flat top cast aluminum pistons
    solid lifter cam, cam card is lost but its aprox 530 lift 230/230
    arp headstuds
    1.94 big chamber stock heads
    torquer II single plane intake manifold
    holly 750dp

    turbo kit:
    Lt1 corvette manifolds flipped
    custom 3" hot piping
    HX40 internally gated chinese turbo w/ 7psi wastegate
    custom 3" cold piping
    spectre carb hat
    3" intercooler
    knockoff bov
    mallory 4309 fpr
    walbro 255
    msd btm
    hanger18 carb mods: 74/88 1/16th drilled pvcr, primary pv, secondary blocked
    welded dist
    aem uego wideband

    i've spent quite a bit of time tuning on this thing, trying to get everything right. all i can say is thank god for widebands, the uego is so cheap, everyone should get one for their project if they are on a budget.

    the first motor i had in the truck was a stock small valve smog motor i rescued from a field & rain with a cracked head, cleaned the cylinders up and fixed the crack and stuffed it in the truck, that ran pretty good @ 6psi for such a low powered motor, it started knocking, so i yanked the motor out and it turns out the knocking sound was the old stock timing chain wacking against the cover. so i have a good core 4 bolt waiting just in case 8)

    the motor that is currently in the truck, i bought off craigslist for 50 bucks because the guy said it was making a knocking sound, turns out the flywheel was cracked in about 20 places and about ready to break off, i tore the motor down and freshened it up anyways.

    i'll end up getting a video one of these days, i'm still doing some tuning but i have it pretty close, running 7psi it doesn't feel too bad, revving it up to 6500rpm

    future mods are a built 350 trans or 700r4, and a upgraded rear end, and some much needed fit and finish on the truck as a whole
     
  2. BlownShovel

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2003
    Re: 1976 short wide box c10 cheyenne truck

    Good to see the tune coming around for you - yes a WB can really help out.

    I'm really glad to see you got some qualified help for the carb work ;-) Great pic :2thumbs:
     
  3. wild84

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2008
    Re: 1976 short wide box c10 cheyenne truck

    Always like these body style trucks. Any plans on dyno/track runs?
     
  4. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    Re: 1976 short wide box c10 cheyenne truck

    the truck really isn't ready for any serious drag racing, it has a stock th350 transmission, with stock converter so like 1100rpm or whatever. plus a stock 10 bolt rear end, with really tall gears. i'm going to have to spend a bit of money and quite a bit of work to get it to where i want it as far as being able to drag race it.

    i've had other cars with stock converters, and the basic drag race procedure is, launch off idle, lag, build boost, smoke tires, try and catch up.

    as far as power figures i'd be happy with 400rwhp at 10 or lower psi, anything beyond that is profit

    i do plan on building a transmission, and getting a stall converter, probably around 2600rpm.
     
  5. nos10racer

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    dope whip always thought so
     
  6. noblofiveoh

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2004
    I just picked up an HX40 16cm myself, where did you source the wastegate to run at 7psi?

    Clean build!
     
  7. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    on ebay
     
  8. Twin Turbo Skylark

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2009
    Good work! Keep it up!! :2thumbs:
     
  9. Sandman

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2005
    How does it work with the hot pipe running so close to the front carb bowl? Or is it not as close as it looks?
     
  10. denmah

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2005
    the kid in the engine bay, sitting on the motor, is one of the best pictures ive ever seen on this site :cheers:
     
  11. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    i haven't noticed any problems from it, i did have a problem with the heat on the upper radiator hose, made the really old hose burst
     
  12. 81shavedtrk

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2006
    My turbo is too close to my carb for my liking. You may find the hot side sucks near the carb after a pass when you have to reach over it to pull the bowl off to tune (I speak from experience lol).
     
  13. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    coming along, i've won a few trophies for it, mostly for "under construction"

    i have a set of radial t/a i'm going to put on the black wheels next week, hopefully tomorrow. it'll look great with the white letters.

    hopefully i'll be able to spend some time buttoning up the interior, inner fenders, doing something with the bed, might try the brush on bedliner
     
  14. denmah

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2005
    i look forward to seeing video of this thing sometime!
     
  15. StabbinStevem

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2011
    Sweet truck! I love these trucks. I may be a little partial though.
     
  16. 81shavedtrk

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2006
    Glad to see more square bodies. Even stock suspension they can be quick. I've proven that lol.
     
  17. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
    i won a trophy this weekend for best under construction, its the 3rd i've won of that category.

    i had the heat wrap off because i was fucking with the engine so much, i bought another 50' roll and put that shit on.

    this stuff is great, i can clearly tell that the turbo spools faster, and warms up a lot faster with the heat wrap on. i bought one of those harbor freight laser temp guns $40 special. works great.

    from normal cruising, no boosting or wot pulls, my unwrapped collector is showing ~600-630f the heat wrapped sections are showing ~300-330f

    i was having a lot of hard starting problems from the heat soak into the started, i wrapped the dp down past the starter and the pipe by the starter with the wrap is ~200f i haven't tried a hot start yet but i think this is going to fix my problem.

    i also double wrapped one side of the turbo piping and its showing ~30f less than the single wrap. not a big deal... but i guess 30f drop is something.

    i need to figure out something about my charge piping laying against the hot side, the charge pipe is ~200f and about a foot away from that in the charge piping is ~90f

    i might try and wrap the charge piping in that spot, not much i can do without redesigning the hot side piping. the carb riser is showing ~220f so i'm not sure what effect the ~200f next to the hat is making.
     
  18. tsb

    Joined:
    May 4, 2011
  19. TWNWHR

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2010
    This truck is awesome. I have a soft spot for these trucks. I had an 85 with a 305 and I had bought a turbo from a 6.5 diesel I was going to put on. Wish i had followed thru..

    Good luck with it! - Jesse
     
  20. Forcefed86

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Theres alot of volume/velocity in the air rushing by that hot point in the pipes. Even if that section of pipe is saturated to 300* it won't have a drastic effect on the overall volume of air entering the engine. The air can only pick up so much heat in the short time it travels past that point.

    That being said, a heat shield with a 3/8" air gap on the hot side would help alot. Some reflective heat wrap on the intake wouldn't hurt either, although it's pretty ugly. Could also plumb in some ducting to blow cool air over that area while at cruise. Trick is doing all this without making the engine bay look like crap. :D

    Good luck Truck looks great! :cheers:
     
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