This is my 1970 nova build, still alot of uncertainty left in the build but i will try to keep updating it as i slowly progress. Any tips and tricks or parts suggestions would be great. My basic intentions as of now will be a mild 454 with a pair of ebay gt45's
but i will warn you i change my mind very frequently

 

The car:



The engine as it sits... no it wont have an 1150 dominator as the blow through

 

Looking forward to seeing it out.

 

Hopefully will be out by spring I can't wait to see yours. I almost went ls also but couldn't get it cheap enough so I ordered most of my bbc parts.

 

looking forward to the build. Take some time searching and researching details re: overall combo. You will find twins easier when snaking the downpipes but single turbo's work well. Just depends on your overall goals, look, usage.

A couple threads to get you rolling with plenty of food for thought are:

Thinking of going Blow Thru
https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/...out-going-blow-thru-read-this-before-posting/

BB version of grenade-- This link shows the potential of somewhat stock BBC's and boost.
https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/...ch/big-block-version-of-the-'grenade'-dyno-s/

 

Its not to spendy just have to find the right deals and not be afraid of a junkyard engine. My trans is the only expensive part in my car.

 

I had a big holset and sold it in favor of twins for that reason exactly. And im not afraid of a junkyard motor but now im invested in the bbc.

 

Bbc will be fun mine almost got one at one point putting the power down will be tricky in our usual spots but it should be impressive to watch. The turbos seem pretty badass for the money if mine works I'm buying one for everything.

 

op: What color is that? It looks exellent!

 

ok i got the motor all apart everything mics out fine and very minimal wear on the bearings so i did a crappy hone job which i really hope doesnt bite me in the ass later. i honed with medium stones then switched to 400 grit fine stones but a few of the cylinders are slightly bellmouthed now. they are about .0015 larger at the top compared to the bottom. i think im going to run it anyway and hope for the best. i threw a good coat of chevy orange on it to ensure everything holds together the way it should.

 

thanks i wish i knew, its got a few blemishes in the paint and i have no paint code.

 

Keep the pics coming,thinking about selling my F1-R to do turbos,or selling the motor complete and doing a LS2,LSX.So many options,so little money.

#ad

 

I don't know what the specs are for this engine but I think .0015 taper is pretty good for an unmachined block. FWIW that's what mine measured on the worst bores and I'm not concerned.

 

Have you run your engine like that yet? Im still concerned with the rings not sealing and having bad blow by. A bore and hone at a local machine shop will cost $180 I think im going to do that for peace of mind.

 

No I have not run my motor yet. Having them bore and hone it with a torque plate will never hurt. You may want to look up what the factory spec is for allowable taper I bet its up over .010 (.005 per side) If you have blow by issues it wont be due to that taper. just sayin! Maybe also check what the rings you are using require, I was actully very suprised at how much tolerance there is on some of this stuff. On a none related topic that is one clean Nova

 

LOL that .01 was a lucky guess.

Check out Page 69 if the link doesnt take you right to it.

http://books.google.com/books?id=gs...#v=onepage&q=chevy max cylinder taper&f=false

 

I couldn't find anything in there do you mean .001? Cause .01 is a ton

 

Im sorry its page 69 at the bottom of the page under "Allowable Taper" Basicly says anything better than .005 is nothing to worry about and that .01 will still be ok for a motor your not trying to get 100,000 miles out of. Im going to edit my original post to show the correct page #

 

Wow that just seams insane to put an engine together with .010 taper hell im still unsure of .0015 but really these measurements don't mean much since the bore will move even more once a head is torqued down on it.

 

upon better measurment with t gauges and a dial caliper rather than checking ring gap as before, i have found actually no taper at all rather they are all ovalled to a degree. there is two that range from 4.250-4.246 the rest are only by about .002 and a couple are near perfect. the highest reading i got anywhere was 4.2505 how is it after honing a warn cylinder it is not slightly oversized? i guess i have some thinking to do if i should just have it bored or not?