So to start off with, I bought the full cxracing kit about 2 years ago for about $2500. The kit included the hot side t76 journal bearing and the cold side with liquid intercooler. I see that pictures and experience with this particular kit is very limited and not and in depth discussion of the changes in setups and the results to be gained by other peoples experience so i started this thread. I ask that only constructive comments be posted please. This project is still in the beginning stage somewhat and i am still collecting all the parts to get this project going. The engine short block is assembled but not put in the car yet. The reinforcements still need to be welded in. (by me as I mig and tig weld)

The car: The body is a 100% rust free 1967 Mustang coupe original 4 speed car. I will be retaining the 4 speed and original interior as well as the original body parts except the hood. A cowl hood is required to fit the carb bonnet.

The goal:
The car will not be a daily driver. The car will be driven 99%-100% of the time on the street. Low rpm driving must have streetable manners with vacuum for the power brakes. Ideally I would like to be able to drive the car about 250 miles to the All Ford Nationals when done without any problems. All this being said I would like to make it as fast and dependable as possible. Essentially looking for a compromise of the best of all traits. Running on pump gas is a must. No ethanol is available here so 93 octane shell i guess will be the limitations

The engine:
I then started building a 5.0 302 roller engine from a 1988 mustang. The build includes 0.030 DSS racing forged pistons 8.77 to 1 compression, Scat I beam rods, stock crankshaft magnafluxed and straightened, screw in studs, windage tray, AFR 1422 heads, comp cams gold roller rockers, edelbrock air gap intake, quickfuel 650 double pumper carb, MSD distributor, plug wires and coil. The reciprocating assembly was balance to the 50 oz. spec. The block was align bored, deck was lightly shaved. Additional items are a Team RXP catch can K&N 6" cone air filter with spectre performance 9730 heat shield, turbo blanket, header heat wrap everywhere, extreme velocity turbo bonnet, BER racing motor mounts, spark plug heat boots, turbo smart boost controller, Milodon baffled oil pan, stage 8 locking header bolt system

The rear end:
For the rear end i have an N case 3.25 detroit locker. I assemble the rear ends myself so i also have a 2.73 and a 3.00 N case traction lock for testing the most efficient gear ratio and type of traction locking mechanism. Not sure of the detroit locker vs traction lock compromise on the street of drivability vs traction scenario.

The transmission:
The transmission that came in the car was a small spline wide ratio toploader. I didnt think it could handle the power so i found a big spline 1 -3/8 close ratio toploader transmission and a hurst competition plus shifter. This will be the transmission I will be using. I have a spec 3 clutch setup, SFI flywheel. I will be using an American Powertrain hydraulic clutch setup due to the fact that the existing clutch linkage wont work with the cxracing drivers side header is now located where the factory z bar used to be. It was originally made for the automatic transmission.

The fuel pump:
I will be using a carter mechanical fuel pump setup for boost referenced by drilling out the holes (1/16-27 npt) at the top of the pump to increase pressure with boost. I used the same 3/16" I.D. size fittings and tubing that the paxton / novi setup recommends for their kit. I have a fuel pressure gauge to check to make sure it is working properly. I did this for dependability (hopefully) (Nascar uses mechanical fuel pumps so dont judge to harshly) and due to the lack of modern wiring in the fuse block to run a lot of electrical accessories. I also upgraded to the 3/8" fuel line and sending unit from the tank.

The ignition:
MSD boost retard with a rev limiter set to 6000 rpm. I may just use this for the rev limiter and lock in the distributor not sure yet. Definitely a topic for discussion as i am trying to get away from dependency on the alternator and the electrical system due to the cars limitations. I also have a knock sensor E3AZ-12A699-A from a F150 and a custom knock detector setup ECU Knock Link G4 off ebay

The gauges:
Gauges to be mounted on the A pillar and the console door or radio hole area. Tach to be mounted on the steering wheel with the knock sensor light. There will be 2 Fuel pressure gauges, one digital to the cockpit and one at the fuel pressure regulator, Boost gauge due to space constraint i used the glowshift boost/vacuum / intake air temperature 3 in 1 gauges 8000 rpm tachometer with shift light dual intake temperature gauge for before the turbo and the intake temps, 4 in 1 Oil pressure/Volt/Oil Temp/Water Temp W/Sensors

The suspension:
The suspension has QA1 double adjustable rear shocks and has QA1 single adjustable front shocks. Cal track rear leaf spring setup. Open Tracker Watts link to stabilize the rear suspension. eibach front lowering springs, 1 inch front sway bar, boxed in lowers and shelby drop adjustable upper control arms, roller spring perches, global west strut rod with heim joints and sway bar links with heim joints. The front brakes were replaced with the Granada larger spindle brakes. The rear brakes are currently wider drum factory brakes. Both will be upgrades to larger 13" disk brake setups from street or track LLC as funding permits. The tires and rims are 17" Bullet type rims. 275/17/45 Drag radials on the back and 225/17/40 performance street tires on the front. Shock tower weld in bracing as well as the thicker one piece export brace and monte carlo bars on the upper side. An opentracker reinforced street competition cross member with jack pad at the oil pan area. The sub frame connectors connect the front to back with a removable x brace in the center. Also a brace behind the rear seat the is a basically flat piece of sheet metal screwed into the bracing for support and to limit flexing. Also doubles as protection from a rear end collision sending the fuel tank through into the interior of the car. Straps may also be installed on the top of the gas tank for this purpose also.

The cam shaft:
I am still up in the air as to which cam shaft to use. For now I will be planning on using the stock H.O. roller camshaft that came with the engine in 1988. Any suggestions to this with experience to back it up would be appreciated. The car is still a work of art in progress and a cam swap may be in the future who knows.

The cold side:
Even though the kit came with a liquid intercooler I will not be using it at first. My boost levels will only be 7-10 lbs and i want to check my intake air temperatures to see if its needed. The kit really didnt come with enough brackets to call it a plug and play installation. The brackets for the intercooler and aftercooler may need some customization to install. So the piping will be going from the turbo and routed right over the distributor straight into the front of the carb. No angles to lean out one side or the other ideally. this required a 1" spacer under the carb and a 1/2" spacer under the carb bonnet. Hopefully this will clear my cowl hood.

The exhaust:
I purchased a 3" do it yourself stainless steel dual exhaust kit and magnaflow flow through 3" muffler with a 3" turndown end that will stop hidden flush at the rear valence. This will be a single shot 3" exhaust when completed. V-band clamps will be used at the end of the downpipe and at both sides of the muffler for easy removal.

Pictures:
I will be posting pictures as the build progresses. Hopefully other people with the same project or similar will be posting pictures as well as their personal experiences with the cxracing kit for the 1968 to 1970 mustang........

 

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Very cool build, I have a very similar build on my Ranchero.
Mine has been very streetable (once I got my carb dialed in!)
The only thing on your list that worries me is the modified mechanical pump.
Last thing you want is to run out of fuel!

 

ok so after doing a lot of research on the fuel system I found out that the mechanical fuel pump was only good for 5 to 10 pounds of boost before it got unreliable. The manufacturer says don't go over 10 lbs. of boost with it or the diaphragm could leak gas into the crankcase oil. Not good. Ok point made. I then decided to switch to an in tank fuel injection setup that would reliably supply as much fuel as I would ever need to run 20+ pounds of boost if needed. I decided to limit the horsepower to 600. This would require 50-70 GPH of fuel. The formula is (600hp x .5)/6 =50 The variable .5 to .7 should be used (600hp x .7)/.7 = 70 GPH
I researched the best setup and here is what I found. Use 8-an feed and 8-an return lines. I will feed the fuel down the passenger side between the shock tower and the firewall. The return line will be run back along the drivers side. The fuel pressure regulator will be right on the fuel log just after the fuel bowl lines. This location will prevent any loss of pressure under any conditions. Don't want to dead head the system or have the fuel pressure regulator to far from the fuel log as not to run the bowls dry after a long period of sustained boost. Should be able to get away with a single quality boost regulated fuel pressure regulator if you use a big enough return line and vented gas tank. I believe this setup will provide enough fuel to not have to worry about any fuel delivery problems. Definitely don't want to run out of fuel and go lean under high boost.
I just ordered the 1967 1968 Ford Mustang EFI Fuel Injection Gas Tank FI Conversion Kit 73-10ohm off ebay black Friday sale, I also order the Earl's Performance Billet Fuel Logs AT105008ERL, Earl's Performance 10 micron Inline Fuel Filters 230608ERL, Vintage Air Firewall Grommets 33137-VUI and 10 AN Male ORB to 10 AN Male ORB Union Adapter/connector for the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator 13212; A2000 Carbureted 2-20 PSI Return
I got the some of the ideas for the fuel delivery location in this YouTube video:
Installing a new Fuel System in a '67 Mustang | Two Guys Garage - YouTube
note: the video shows the fuel pressure regulator to far away from the carburetor and could cause a fuel shortage to the float bowl.
A fuel interrupt "safety switch" or "tachometric relay" should be installed for safety in case of an accident or flipping over. This should be wired inti the ignition switch circuit. A good $70 investment to complete the fuel system.

 

Just to give you a comparison, I have 8 an pressure and return on my system with a aeromotive 750 pump and a aeromotive return style regulator. There is about 18" of total line between where my regulator is mounted and the fuel rail for my carburetor. and at my current boost levels of 12 psi, I have no fuel loose under heavy acceleration. I did do a full pull the other day from stop to 5,000 rpm in high gear and fuel pressure and A/F ration was steady the whole time. So I'm not sure how much the distance from the regulator to the carb will truly affect you. But yes make sure that tank is very well vented, lots of overall fuel will be cycled!

 

I cant wait to start testing it out at full sustained boost on the highway for a few miles to see what it does.

Due to the cars electrical system severe limitations was the reason for the mechanical fuel pump:

Now that there is an electric pump, the pump will need to sustain the minimum 13.5 volts under any condition.

So,
I also upgraded the alternator from a 1G to a 3G setup. The alternator is from a 96 mustang (fits perfect no modifications) and they sell a "Conversion Kit Allows Use Of 3G 130 Amp Alternator 1965-1985".
I also put a "BIG 3 Upgraded 4 AWG Gauge Red & Black Alternator Electrical Wiring Combo Kit".

I may end up having to put in an "American Autowire Complete Wiring Harness Classic Update Kit 1967-1968" P/N: 510055 before I am done now to avoid overloading any circuits. Things like gauges, tachometer, knock light, radio, fuel pump and whatever else I add next.....there starting to add up

 

You should be ok with just the alternator and main wiring upgrades. I run a 200a alternator in my CJ and everything works fine, and am running a 220a alternator in my 78 and don't expect any problems. Just make sure your grounds are tight and the wiring to the alternator is solid, then zip tie, grommet and strain relief you will be good. The alternators just cycle on and off at high frequency to maintain the voltage, the amperage won't exceed draw.

Rewiring is usually a good bet on these old vehicles, I have had good luck with the two EZ wiring kits I have done. They are more budget oriented, universal type kits. They update to blade style fuses and you can stick a 21 slot fuse box in which gives you room for future growth.

 

just found a video on YouTube showing the cxracing kit put in with alterations. best part starts 4.25 minutes into video
67 turbo Mustang (Daisy) introduction. - YouTube
some notes taken:
don't know why he used such a large radiator and fan shroud
starter solenoid not protected from heat
moved the wastegate and didnt tie it into downpipe
used upper location brackets for the alternator instead of the lower location ones and didn't protect from heat or no heat shield
spark plug wires right up against the downpipe.
valve covers to big for the clearances needed and may need a different style export brace with more clearance.
setup didn't accommodate power steering or power brakes.
intercooler placement not in the same place as the cxracing website shows adding some head loss into cold side
is the intercooler even needed?

 

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setup change:
Just purchased a new S366 Borg Warner 66.11/73.37 turbo and Comp Cams xe276-hr camshaft p/n 35-328-8.
The new turbo is a Borg Warner S300SX-E Super-Core Turbo 66mm Inducer Forged Mill Wheel with the BorgWarner Airwerks Series: Turbine Housing Wastegate Assembly SX Series S310G for the 80mm turbine 0.83 A/R p/n 13801009034 (see picture). This turbine housing has an internal wastegate routed to the turbine housing outlet. It has a 4.21 marmon flange instead of the 3" vband. I decided to get rid of the wastegate that came with the kit. They sell a 2.75 inch vband, 304 stainless 70mm blank (needs to be tig welded) and stainless 2-1/8" expansion plug to seal off the waste gate and remain interchangeable Block Off Plate Cap so I wont have to alter the headers. The kit will now be legal to run on the street by not having noise and exhaust coming out the wastegate dump pipe.
I'm hoping this new turbo will be more street friendly and spool much faster than the cxracing t-76 that came with the kit.
I'm also hoping the new cam and turbine housing wont offset faster boost ramping provided by the new turbo compared to using the stock HO cam.

 

for anyone who wants to understand more about the internal waste gate I chose. I found these two excellent videos on youtube. The first video explains how it works and the second video shows how to modify it for more performance.

Understanding Waste Gates for your Cummins S300 Turbo - Bing video

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...-15&sk=&cvid=5944E1D3FAA041A79B05B067083E5436

Tips and hacks for porting the wastegate on your S300 turbo - Bing video

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...DF7296AF3A1161F2AE82DF7296AF3A11&&FORM=VRDGAR

 

so today I started to work on converting the original downpipe that came with the cxracing kit from a 3" vband setup to the 4.21 marmon flange setup. There is a 1.25" difference in the exhaust housings as seen in the picture. I started marking up the original downpipe to cut off the 1.25". It turns out it is not as easy as just cutting off 1.25" and welding on the marmon flange due to the bend starting right out of the exhaust housing. The whole first section of the original downpipe needs to be redone to properly tie into the second section. This means cutting both the first and sec0nd sections of the original downpipe. After seeing this I decided to make a new 3.5" stainless downpipe patterned from the original 3" downpipe. I bought a angle measuring tool from harbor freight for under $10. I used this to determine that the original downpipe was made using all 45 degree bends with a 3" inside radius. I searched the internet to see what was available and prices. I ended up buying 4 of the 45 degree bends from cxracing. ($254 shipped) The 3.5" flex pipe ($20 shipped), 3.5" marmon 4.21 adaptor ($30 shipped) and the first pipe tight radius (4" centerline) off of the turbine housing i got off of ebay. ($30 shipped) I am going to try making a 8"-12" conical transition pipe that goes from 3.5" to 3" with the material left over from the 45 degree bends. The rest of the exhaust is going to be 3" stainless as mentioned above. I may put in a 3.5" vband ($19 shipped) in approximately the same place as the cx racing pipe or go full lenth without it not sure yet. The stainless oxygen sensor bung and plug was $6 shipped. For a total of $359 for material so far. I do the tig welding myself so labor and consumables are zero cost.

I don't believe that a 4" downpipe will fit with that particular exhaust turbine housing due to marmon flange being 1.25" further back and may not clear the bracing going from the firewall to the shock tower. Im sure the 3.5" is going to be a tight fit but should fit. I plan on putting more clearance between the downpipe and valve covers for the spark plug wires.

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1996 was the first year of the 4.6 so I don’t think that’s the alternator you mean 94-95 is a 5.0 with a 3g alternator.

can’t wait to see the a first drive video. Classic mustangs with turbos are awesome. Keep up the good work

 

Thanks, Definitely have a bunch of youtube videos coming as the build progresses.

So the alternator is from the 3.8 V6 and 5.0 V8 found in the following cars
Ford Mustang 94-00 V6 3.8L 232cid Std, 130 Amp , w/o pulley
Ford Mustang 94-95 V8 5.0L 302cid Std, 130 Amp , w/o pulley
Ford Thunderbird 94-95 V6 3.8L 232cid wo/Supercharger w/o pulley
Ford Thunderbird 96-97 V6 3.8L 232cid w/o pulley
Mercury Cougar 94-97 V6 3.8L 232cid w/o pulley

Ford: F4PU-10346-BA, F4PZ-10346-B, F4PZ-10346-BRM, F4PZ-10346-BRM1, F4PZ-10346-BRM2, F4SU-10300-AB, F4ZU-10300-DA, F8ZU-10300-AA
Ford Engineering: F4SU-AB, F4ZU-DA, F8ZU-AA

This alternator has the mounting brackets in the correct position as shown in the pictures.
I also show in the picture the rest of the charging system parts including
25 ft of red and black size 0 cable
Heavy duty cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter
200 amp breaker
PA performance conversion kit (voltage regulator and alternator wiring for 3g conversion)
trunk battery box
I will also be using the push pull battery disconnect switch

I haven't figured out yet how I will be routing the red and black battery cables (under the car or through the interior) but I do know they both will go full length battery to engine block. I was thinking of using the 250 amp marine firewall type connectors shown in the picture.

 

Post was blocked from access. Took me a while to resolve the problem #ad
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so I moved it to Facebook vintage mustang restomods group but here are some mockup pictures on my engine run stand built to 67 mustang engine bay specs in the motor mount area. Had to dent up the headers to clearance the bolts and locking washers. The crossover pipe hits the stock motor mount. The alternator hits the oxygen sensor bungs. Next update will show pictures and details on blocking off the external waste gate to convert to an internal waste gate and electronic boost controller and relocation of the alternator higher and another relocation to the driver's side.

 

A close ratio toploader with a 3.0x rear gear will be tough to get moving. Those transmissions were used with cars that had like 4.30 gears. Your wide ratio toploader with a Dan Williams main shaft would much better. I converted a CR to WR for this very reason.

 

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Wastegate cap parts with aluminum v band heat sink. Engine mounts. Flipped passenger side brackets the other way for more clearance drilled one new hole and relocated the keyway hole to get the exact same placement. Also added 7/16 spacers to raise the engine up for more clearance. Had to bash a half inch on the crossover pipe to get the passenger side header to fit. May in the future cut the passenger header crossover pipe and relocate higher to get more flow. Pictures of 3 different alternator bracket. 1972 passenger side higher setup, 1985 LTD drivers side setup and the aftermarket driver side setup shown in the pictures which is the fox 5.0 setup that I modified for use on the 289 mockup. The pulleys appeared to line up good. Also noticed that the header flanges when using the larger 289 spark plugs vs smaller afr head plugs will need to be clearanced to get a socket on them.

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Found a good / excellent video on YouTube to share. Worth your while if you bought the headers.



The kids got heart to take on such a difficult project at his age. Go To his channel there are 3 videos on the cxracing 68 mustang turbo kit installation. Shredit RVA is his callout