Here is a graph right after I passed over 400hp Mike could have pushed it on up quite a bit more but since I have a factory long block with 128,000 miles I told him that after 400hp to just worry about getting it streetable and safe. I think my waste gates need to be snugged up I think the boost would come on a bit quiker. I just loosely left them against the housing and they should have had at least a bit of tension on them. Ill mess with it after the race on the 31st. I wont be able to get a retune if it bost faster anyhow. I am very pleased with it none the less.

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congrats on making the 400hp mark.

 

Thanks! I as well as others were suprized to see that through the non pi heads........Im shure the cams and pi intake had alot to do with it.

 

your turbo setup looks awsome. i was wondering if you had a blow off valve on this setup and where it was located, also what maf and injectors were you running. you got anymore pics you could post like where you tapped your oil feed line from and your oil return thanks

 

Is there any way you could send me any info you have on this setup? like links, suppliers specs etc etc. this is exactly what im wanting to do with my ranger and running a remote oiling system also so i dont have to tap the pan and trying something different. thanx man!

<chris>

 

Yes I have a BOV on the car it is located right in the bumper just after the intercooler. As far as the oil feed it is drawn from a plug that is in the oil filter housing if you look under the housing that the oil filter screws on to you will see a plug that has an allen head unscrew it and add in a feed line. The oil return is feed up to the pan an is on the drivers side front part of the pan......I will try and get some pics but it may be a few days.

 

RBracing.com will set you up with an oiling system for a remote set up. Just go to there site and read up on it. There specs are listed there as well. As far as other stuff ebay, buy fordracing.com, and race part solutions, supplied me with the clamps, couplers, injectors, mas. The rest was all fabed up buy me.....so just pipe, steel, and elbow greeze.

Also I am running 42lb. ford racing injectors and a 90mm lightning mas, with a walbro 255lph fuel pump.

I just went to the strip so Ill get a vid up soon. I was a bit dissapointed as I could not connect a 60ft time and never hit the 12's I was running around 13.5-13.00 with 112mph wich is pretty damn insain speed for such a shity time. The nice 2.5-2.1 60ft. times killed me.....time for slicks and suspension work but I dont know where to start what to change and how to set it up yet my launchs blow chunks!

 

Drag radials will be fine, if you don't want to swap tires every time you go to the track. Although they aren't the absolute best at the track, Nittos work great at the track and in the rain. There's really no need to go nuts for a set of Mickey Thompson radials or full-blown slicks at this point, especially if the car is a driver.

Mark

 

do you see any problem with running the setup id like to do? the thing im worried about is the scavenge pump pulling oil away from the turbo, methinks that it should be ok pumping 25 psi worth of oil to and from the turbos would be okay but i wanna make sure so i dont ruin 2 1200 turbo's

 

The car wont hook off the line I have to ease into it even with the drag radials. Yes they are the best all around and yes they were way better than my street tires I previously had. BUT.....the fact is my 60ft. times were crap and I wont be happy until I hit at least a 1.8 60ft. I mean even with street tires I would hit 2.2-2.5 60ft. I need way more traction So I think I am going to buy a set of slicks, lower control arms, a detroit locker, stronger axles, keeping the 3.27 gears or maybe go to 3.55. I am not shure all I know is the 60 ft times have gotta come down there killing me. I tride all different pressures different launch rpm's It was just a tire spin through first or a massive bog from to little rpm no matter how I slipped the clutch it never worked out for me. I am really dissapointed and I am left not really knowing were to go with the suspension but the car for shure has plenty of power. Top speed of the day was a 112.6mph thats an 11sec. car with a decent start. I ran down almost everyone I raced but my times just arent good enough to me. I wont be happy until I hit 12's

 

I dont see any problem with it.....rbracing does stand alone oiling with its pumps.....however I dont understand why not just pull oil from the motor and return it with the pump? Why would you want to go stand alone oiling?

 

With my old turbo setup, I was running mid/high-11s at 121-122 mph with 60-foot times in the 1.70 neighborhood (5-speed as well, 3600 lbs race weight convertible). I ran either 275/50-15 BFG DRs (1.65 60-foot best), 275/50-15 Nitto DRs (1.67 60-foot best), or 245/45-17 Nitto DRs (1.74 best). At that time, I was running stock lower arms with poly bushings, anti-squat brackets, and brand X upper control arms. Stock axles, stock Traction-Lock diff, and 3.73 gears. Nothing exotic back there, especially since this was my daily driver at the time, so it's my recommendation that you save your money and skip the fancy parts.

Mark

 

because ive never really heard it being done before and it would be nice to have something different. Some questions i need to find out is what oil psi does the turbo require for the feed line and returns. i plan on buying 2 of there pumps, one for feed and one for return. im on a ranger forum and there's been a few people who have been interested in the setup im building nad might like to purchase one when im all done. with that im going to need to have the 3.0 on my truck built for this im thinking so its still going to be awhile but im getting there

 

I was wondering if the 15" wheels I mean thats a ton more side wall than I have with the 17" wheel. Do you think control arms and 15" wheels ...if Im going to buy tires it is going to be either dot radials from hoosier or slicks. I dont know. My dad was asking if I got a set of stock wheels had the back widend and the front narrowed and then went with radials like hoosier just came out with, and switch control arms and see what happens????? Also those 3.73's help tons but I need to stay in the boost. What would happen if you would have had 3.27's? Maybe I should change to 3.55's. My dad is going to help me out on the suspension ....he is proud of the work I did with the turbos and wants to see the car run to its full potential. I really liked the Steeda alluminium adj. control arms.

 

Here is a vid and a few pics of the sixty foot line showing just how terrible I was being beat off the line, however the story was different at the other end I passed both cars even after the other stang red lighted. The car pulls so hard once its rolling. I just gott keep working at it.

http://media.putfile.com/Twin-Turbo-non-pi-gt

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IMHO, 3.55s aren't worth the effort. Go with the 3.73s (I learned this lesson). With 3.73s and a stock-height 26" tire, I was hitting my 6100 rev limiter around 122 mph at the track between 1000-foot and the finish traps, so you'll have room to grow. And the highway RPM difference was minor.

Honestly, I think you're going overboard with the slicks. If the car is going 112 mph, then a decent drag radial will suit you for quite a while. The Nitto will hook well, won't eat itself apart as a daily driver, and works great in the rain. You already have 17" wheels on there, so a 245/45-17 drag radial will fit (remember, I managed a 1.74 out of mine). However, if you want to bring extra wheels/tires to the track and change them when you get there and before you leave, then slicks will work, but that's a pain in the ass around here where you're lucky to get 3 passes in 1 night. I love rolling in on drag radials, heading straight to the lanes, then heading back home at the end of the night.

I like the adjustability of the Steeda billet lowers, with the jack-screw pads. They aren't free, though. These days, I'm running a set of Pro3i arms, which are adjustable welded steel arms with a poly bushing at the chassis end and a spherical bearing at the axle end. They were around $260 or so a few years ago. I'm also running adjustable Steeda uppers, also with poly on the chassis end and sphearical bearings at the axle end. Stay away from sphericals at the chassis end, unless you like squeaking and pissing blood. lol

You will spend about $175 each for widening and narrowing wheels. Ugh! Then again, aluminum wheels went through the roof in the last year, so even my Telstars are at least $200 each these days.

Mark

 

Do you think the 3.73's will be to steep to keep up boost pressure, is there any trade off in that asspect? I would love to run 1.7 60ft. As it is I have 275/50? I cant remember 1 size larger than the 245/45/17 nitto drags on the car, this is why I wanted to go with slicks those runs are on the nittos. The drag radials are way better than the street tires but I dont want to half ass this thing. I dont mind changing wheels on the car for going to the track. I personally think the car is faster on bare pavement than at the track with rubber already down.

 

Here are the actual time slips.

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