Ok, I finally finished the blue print I was working on for the face plate of my fabricated housing. I used a Quartermax DIY kit for refrence on the face plate. I am hoping to get some feed back from the various shop owners and car builders on this Site. I would like to market this and be able to offer this as an affoardable DIY kit in the future to shops and site members. From what I have figured the face plate should be made of 3/8 moly plate that has been been blanchard ground. In the Quarter max kit The top, bottom, side, back caps, and guessets are all made from .090 moly. They also use a 3.5 diameter tube that is .250 thick. There Face plate is about 16 1/2 inches across the width. I made mine 2 inches wider for more strength in wider rear end applications. I couldn't see putting 4 link brackets to much closer for the average builder and most guys having a car built with a shorter 4 link center are having the housing built in house by the car builder any way. I have been looking at different Fabricated housings on the internet. No one wants to give out info unless you fork out the cash and buy one from them so you can physically see what they use for materials. I can't affoard to buy every kit on the market for R&D

I would like to here what you guys would like to see me to use. With My personal experince with housing ends, I kinda favor 3.250 diameter tubing. I use .250 wall thickness moly. I also personally think It is a little easyer to modify the average suspension bracket on the market for that size tube. When I build my back braces I use .125 thicknes moly.

What would you like to see me use for tubeing size?
The top and bottom plates?
Back caps, and internall guessets?
Any thing else you would like me to incorporate?

 

Here is the sample I cut today so you can kinda see the overall diffrence. The sample is made out of 11 gauge sheet metal wich is just under an 1/8 in thicknes I can buy a 4x4 foot sheet for $20 and get a few samples of of it. There are a few little things to fix but it's way closer then the guy who made the first file for me. That was before I started runing a waterjet machine part time.

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Looks bitchin!!!!

 

Thanks Jake!!! I was begining to wonder if I was going to get any response at all. By any chance do you have any input on what I should use for material thickness for the sides, back caps, and internal guessets? Your input would be greatly appericiated!!!

 

I think with the .250 wall thickness 3" tubes would be fine! and would also save a little on un sprung weight,and match most common housing ends, it's a good Idea and I would deffinatly buy some kits from you, I would also be interested in working with you on stock suspension bolt in FAB 9 type rear ends for mustangs and F bodys!

 

Sounds like a plan! I am still trying to get the bolt patern corected for the third member... I am trying a few things... So would you want this as a pre welded assembly or a diy Kit in pieces??? I could definitly build a jig to assemble them with the correct mounting brackets for mustang. I noticed the one alston sells has some mounting hole options... Got any input on what to use for the sides, back cap, and gussets??? .125 or .090 moly

 

LOL, I was just hunting for something smart to say. I really couldnt tell you what would be the best material to use form experiance as I have never had my hands on a Fab housing. I would say the beefier the better. For the weight you can save on the 3" .250 tubing over 3.25" or 3.5" I wouldnt worry too much on what the heavier sheetmetal parts may weight. I've been told the simple Fab housing's are weaker than say a Strange housing. Its all in the internal gussetting though. Mybe of that difference is based on the crush strength of say a tube to a square. A tub always wins. A triangle is even better. I would say a thick face plate needs to be used also. Say .375+?. If these get sold as DIY kits then its probably a good idea to still tell them to have the faces sufaced after welding. I'd stare real close at the pics in the Bickel catalog of the fixtures of them assebling there Fab housings. I have personally seen there setup and its pretty cool. One kids makes this part and one kid makes that part. And one fat kid sits there BEAUTIFULLY TIG'n them together.

 

Ya I was thinking the same thing about the fixture!!! I am thinking the 1/8 Moly would be the best bet for overall strength. I already planned on a .375 thick moly face plate. As far as tube size I guess I could offer it with 3 inch, but I am thinking I might have to make some adjustments for the smaller tube. I stll have about 16 feet of 3.25 tubeing left. So I think thats going to be the easyiest since I Don't have the money to buy more full lengths of 3 or 3.5 tubing. Also I keep hereing the larger tubing will help with the strength of the overall design wich is why the pro mods use 3.5 tubing... any one know if there is any truth to that??? I know alston says in there catolog that if you plan on going over like 650Hp to step up to the larger tubing in there FAB 9.

 

Heck I like the larger tubes too. I have a stick of 3.25 x .250 moly myself. Some guys may want a 3" tube though. I believe most "Pro Mod" type guys go with the 3.5" tube so they can fit the floater tubes into the axle tubes. You could do 2 designs. One for a 3.5" tube and 1 for the 3.25 tube. And when someone wants a 3" tube just put about a 8-10" sleeve or so of 3.5" with the 3" axle tubing sticking out.

 

Damn it Jake quit reading my mind... I was thinking the same thing!!! I was hoping Dave would chime back in on this. He must have all the work over at his shop and be to busy to play on Here....

 

3'' tubes on a mustang bolt in or something under 1000HP but I doubt thr tube will be the issue like you both said the face plate and internal gusseting is most important for strength and the bak brace desighn will make a huge differance in strength also!!

 

Well Dave just because I would like you to buy my product when it's ready for marketing, I will see what I need to modify for it to work with 3 inch tubes. my buddie Just scored an 88 hatch 5.0 5 speed so I guess when He is done destroying it this weekend I will take it to my buddies Shop and yank the Rear End out. I will use that 8.8 to make a Jig for the mounting brackets for the suspension. Just in case I decide to sell the assembled. Any thing Special I might want to do for the mounting brackets??? I have seen spherical upper mounts, mounting tabs with 2 or 3 holes for adjustment, But what do you think works the best???

 

I'd look real close at the new bolt in Fab 9 Chris Alston's Chassisworks offers for the Mustangs w/ the built in anti-roll bar. Looks pretty darn cool.

 

Ya I was looking at that but I would like to here some feed back on how well it works or if something needs to be changed. It's only been out a little while and so far I havent seen any cars out there with one under it...

 

Id' put several mounting holes, The stock geometry is good for cars that are slightly lowered but everyone wants to slam them to the ground and that throws the geometry all out of whack! if you could make one with multiple PU points it would be great! As for the 3'' tubes, Not necessary I'm just the kind of guy who will look in 100 places to find 1lb to remove, But if you need help on the upper brackets give me a call!

 

I can understand trying to save apound were possible. I will definitlly have to give you a call for the upper brackets. Mustangs are not my specialty but I am willing to catter to any one who is willing to take the time to give me input and potentially spend money on Something I might produce. I am also willing to build this to any configuration from a full DIY kit to a fully completed and powdercoated Housing or even some were in the middle like welded center with tubes but no ends or brackets.

 

Just got back from PSCA race in fontana. I actually had the chance to see The chris alston FAB 9 bolt in for the Fox chassis. The tech rep Even kicked down some Newlly printed data sheets for there new line of housings. While I am still not to big on there weld Quality of there spray arc machine. I guess for the average guy not wanting to spend alot on a complete housing you can't go wrong for the price. Starts around $650 for there basic Mild steel version with eurathane bushings and could go as high as $1400 for a chromoly one with all the options and a back brace installed. I still think the one from strange is a better choice though even though at this time they dont have a direct bolt in for that application that I know of . Of course a custom built strange housing from Team Z or Jake would be the best way to go

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Do you have an estimated time im in the market for one for the mustang and if you know yet about prices?

 

Still working on it at this time. trying to get the bolt circle perfect, I had another company copy the part and they did a lowsy job. I spent a day and a half drawing my own part and it was way closer when I cut a sample. I sent there file back to them and copyed the part on a large peice of graph paper this time using screw in transfer punch in the bolt holes. Hopefully they do a better job fixing it this time. If that doesn't work I may see if I can get a print for the bolt circle from one of the rear end companies out there. Once I get the face plate finialized it willl all be down hill from there. The price would hopefully be competitive with Alston on there cromoly stuff but with better quality of course!!! I would like to assembly my first housing withen a month from now for my own car. Hopefully withen 2 months I would be able to start producing a mustang version. Unfortunitly there are so many variables I would have to pick one style and work with some one like Team Z to get at good prototype. IN the mean time I am reconditioning a mill for my self, A buddy of mine is going to expand his shop approxetally another 16 square feet, and I am trying to find as much part time down here to keep the money coming in to keep the bills paid and hopefully have a few $$$$ left over for material sand The R&D for this little project.

 

WHATS THE WEIGHT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE STOCK 9 INCH WITH A BACK BRACE vs and fab one like that ?