OK, ok, so.....

I had planned to test this with my own A/W. But to play the devils advocate,.... I understand the theory (or fact as it may be ) that you put the coldest last, in hopes that there will be a bigger temperature differential at the end of the intercooler right before it goes out.
So here's the crack pot theory. Wouldn't the BIGGEST temperature differential be if the cold water was up front, hitting the hottest air first, and there by knocking down the IAT's farther, rather than chipping away at it as is comes in, with the cold water last ?

If an intercooler is working very well, won't you always have a larger pressure drop realistically more than 1psi ? I mean if an intercooler knocks AIT's from 200 down to 100, the volume and pressure will always be there. Not really because of a restrictions, but because the cooler side will slow from volume drop, and so the pressure will drop ?

I wonder about the single brick rated to 1k hp. I will be on the verge of one brick being too small, hopefully not wanting more, not for a while. Was wondering the benefit of adding a second in parallel. Lower pressure drop, velocity slows, so it stays in the core even longer. All this compared to, now the water is doubled, and may overcome the 5 gallons of ice water faster. Now comparing all of that again to: really low inlets at the beginning of the track, where the tires may not hold anyways, so it's ability to add timing is wasted. VS the single core, which may hold the inlets a little higher, but for a longer time period down the track, where the tires may hold better, and take more timing. So is this way over thought or what ?

 

Ok, I see the point on the water paths. I will let you know some data when she's done. I have to know for myself, ya know ?

My Garrett core is 11.90" x 4.80" x 4.50, an is supposed to be good for the 1k. Thing where I'm stuck is the parallel Vs inline. If I stay at or under 1k, I could stick them inline. Knowing the pressure drop would be higher, but only because it's stacked, not because I'm using a core too small.Space would be a little easier this way.Side by side, I'm just worried if it doesn't stay in the cores long enough (only going through one core thickness), it won't work as well. Although I know the less work to keep pressure on the other side easier, and the airflow will slow in the cores this way. But putting numbers and facts to it is a little harder.

 

The Vortech Guy I talked to today on a different matter passed on some HP numbers for their basic brick. The brick is 9"x4.5" on the air side and 4.5"x4.5" on the water side and a double pass unit. 40 square inches of air path area. They say it is conservatively rated at 450 hp. I have seen several cars that would make over 550 hp with the same brick.

You have a brick that is basically 12" x 5" or 60 square inches of air path area, 50% more. Brick might be rated at 1000 hp but based on math I would say it could flow 675 hp by Vortech's rating method and 825 by track type testing.
If you used the second brick as a "second loop" in the water system the cooling efficiency might raise the power to 850-875 hp. Still a good ways from a 1000 hp brick using the "track method".

875 hp is a bunch of HP if the car was a real street car.

Tom Vaught

 

Ah OK. I'll run them side by side then. Even it were possible it gave up a few degrees, would rather do that then to have a restriction.

I expect it to be a real street car. Doing the AC and the whole deal. Got a big engine with heads to match. Hopefully make the power "easily" so the pressure stays low. I'm just guessing around 1k to get my goal on pump. It shouldn't take that much for the ET normally, but I'm not holding my breathe on the traction out here. I'll back door the ET if I have ,too.lol I'm just planning for more, but most importantly a street car. It runs what it runs. I don't want it gutted a back halved to only run 9.0's. But on leafs and 91 the plan is 8's.