I have been working on and off on this project for about a year and a half as time and funds dictated. All of the knowledge I obtained was through this website and its participants. For all of the I help, I want to thank everyone. It started last night, but still has a few things corrected and finished to make it work and run as it should. If anyone has some constructive comments to make I am more than open to the experiences and expertise of others. On to the build.
The block is a Ford A351 turned into a 383 with Probe Dominator series stuff. I hope it lasts.
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MMR set me up with one a TKO 900 and I threw in a Mcleod twin disk.
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And a nice welded up 8.8 with 3.27 gears and 33 spline axles and LSD from DTS.
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Glenns Performance makes some trick tanks. The Weldon pump should keep up with fuel demands.
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Finally, it's in!
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I found this wired in the rear. WTF.
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The fuel stuff.
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Homemade kill switch handle.
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The rest are various pics of the build.
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looks like a killer combo. can't wait to see a finished project. got any pics of the car as a whole?

 

nice job .... mihgt wana check your track tho bein as that fuel line setup would NEVER fly at my track ..

 

Admittedly, I am ignorant to a lot of the track tech. What is the problem with the fuel line setup, so I can correct it?

Edit: I think this is what I am looking for. Can someone verify for my?

Lines: All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) must be metallic, steel-braided or FIA accepted "woven pushlock". A maximum of 12-inches (30.5 cm) total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided is permitted for connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch (40.6 cm) length of steel tubing, 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as a protection against fuel line rupture. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing supercharger drive belts be steel braided or be enclosed in protective steel tubing. Fuel lines must not be routed in the driveshaft tunnel.

 

yup thats it lol

 

Well, sh!t! I guess I have some changes to make some time in the future. Thanks for at least pointing it out.

 

The engine start up was the first time for it and, after I primed it, it built oil pressure immediately. I had hoped to drive it on and off of the trailer back to my house. I tried to prime it again and got no oil up to the lifters. After taking the front cover off I found the plug had popped out. I threaded it installed a screw in plug. I primed the engine again and got 60 psi. It has conventional oil in it and the clearances are a little tight. It only ran for a couple of seconds before I shut it down so I hope it is o.k.

 

any updates?

 

Two things, You might want to shorten your oil drain. It looks like it dips down then comes back up, may lead to issues. It should have a downward slope the whole way.
Also your wastegate is backwards, attach the flange with the small metal ring gasket to the hotside, the w/g valve shouldbe pointing towards the hotside.. I have the same kit and the wastegate pointing that way bypassed all the exhaust gases into the engine bay, so you might want to point the outlet towards the back of the car. Its hard explaining, sorry.

on the build!

 

Thank you for the pointers! I'll take all I can get.
Realistically this is my first build and I may have bitten off more than I can chew. It is quite a project redoing everything. So the wastegate should be turned 180?

 

Ya, short'n up the drain line so it is a downward slope from the turbo all the way to the pan, and attach your wastegate with the other flandge.

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=114682.0;attach=103238;image

 

That makes sense for the wastegate. Thank you. And it will be no problem to shorten the oil drain some more.

 

I was looking for a picture like that. I had to shorten the drain that brian sent me almost 5inches.

 

I guess it is better to have too much than too little. Brian's kit has fit great so far.

 

awesome build. looks great

 

Thats a hell of a fuel system. Looks like a new fuel tank, but wheres the sump? or are you not using the tank and putting a fuel cell in? Stock tanks make a good place for water for ballast if you need to add weight.

 

Stock tanks also make good ballast for traction. 3300lb car with 900+ hp gets better 60ft time with full tank than empty tank.

 

It is a stock style tank by Glenns Performance. It is internally sumped and a very nice piece. I've been working a night shift lately and finishing a someone else's project more than mine.

 

I know what you mean. work and other projects are getting in the way of playtime too!!!

 

my car is all pushlock fuel line... front to back... they never say anything to me... it does have a woven outside shield... nice build