$1300 rods
$730 pistons
$125 rings

 

As an anti-modular pro-Windsor guy, this is disheartening to say the least. I always never liked the modulars because of the extra cams, the bigass timing chain, big heads, ugly car body, and the fact that I didn't know much about them.

I was unaware they were this strong though. Maybe I will stop talking as much shit about them. Only for boosted applications though.

 

6L 4 Valve modular by SHM 500hp or something like that. All aluminum block. Even N/A thats not all that bad.

Obivously its no 704 big block or something but the modular has its place.

 

This is a good thread, can anyone post me to some links to some dynographs for the 4v mod motors? With a built bottom end can I pull a few deg out of the cams and push the motor to 7500 reliably?

 

Your Math is wrong on the DOHC Build up. You forgot to add in the machine work. And how come the windsor motors cost more to machine? I figured it would cost about the same for an overbore and hone on both engines. Guess you were just not being fair to both sides. Guess you don't need to balance those nice new pistons and rods on that stock 4.6 crank, forgot to add that into the equation.

I would love to do a mod motor one day, the way I see it both windsor and modular guys are on the same side, what happend to all the Ford VS Chevy?

 

I'm too lazy to dig up/link up to dyno graphs, but they are out there, so look around a bit.

Try modulardepot.com and modularfords.com forums, theres a lot of good stuff there.

As far as shifting around the cam phasing to turn the motor higher... You can shift it around a bit, but there is no need. Turbocharged, a stock cammed 4.6 will pull to 7k+ very strong...even stronger with better cams!

Additionally, if the heads have been set up right (essentially the valvetrain geometry), the valvetrain will be extremely reliable with stock springs under 7500rpm, and much more with aftermarket springs.

 

I'd think the shortblock savings itself would be around $2k but depending on your goals power wise you might be able to get by with the factory ECU with the windsor option, could it even be an option with the modular in a Fox body? Is there an off the shelf turbo kit for a mod motor in a Fox body? I do not doubt it is cheaper to go modular, but seems it is not cheaper for a lot of people who are not too willing to take the DIY route on certain key elements.

 

If you buy a new OEM mod block, its machined and ready to go... Except for balancing of course. He included $200 for the mod motor for "machine work", which covers balancing.

However, the $500 he included for the SBF may not have been enough. Those dart blocks need and align hone, and a deckplate bore/hone at the least! And that's $500 worth of work, nevermind it too needs balancing for another $200.

 

I did forget the balance but a aftermarket sbf block usually requires alot of machine work thats why I have the costs where they are on the machine work.

 

I've been seriously conisdering doing a mod motor for some time now. I've run the numbers and the prices are pretty close.

This thread really seems to favor the 4v 4.6. what about the 4v 5.4. are there any drawbacks to 4v 5.4 vs. 4v 4.6.

I want to do the 4v 5.4 with a sullivan intake. My budget right now will only allow a fordged rod and good piston. Cams are also not in the budget till next year.

 

The 4v 5.4 doesn't package very well, because its huge. Other than that however, its an awesome setup!

...don't plan on turning it very hard though, because the 4.165" stroke is really, really long. Anything past 7krpm is really really pushing it.

 

....and that crank isn't fully counter-weighted. Not good in my opinion. We have a 322ci and a 331ci N/A combo that will see between 9000 and 10,000 rpm.

 

When are you going to build a real motor that can actually spin high?!?! LOL

 

My modular experience has been quite the learning curve. However, all the motors I've eaten up, all the failure have been caused by manufacturing on the part of sean hyland. With the exception of one where I turned billet rods into pretzels. Even that was from a SHM motor built 10:1 - which was NOT what I ordered.

Most of the issues I've seen and encountered have resulted from very high boost levels lifting the heads. I've done that more than a few times.

 

What brand rod was the cause of the failure? I hear that the mods blow up pistons before they blow headgaskets so their head sealing is great as long as your tune is in order.

 

Im learmimg alot i didn't know. Thanks guys!!!

 

If you buy a new oem block, you are at the same price as a A4 block or r302 block.

 

Yeah but you can usually pick up a used Teksid block for $300 or so. I am still debating on this but I think I am going to stick with pushrod because billet oil pump gears and a trigger wheel is 400 bucks, if i ever do want to switch cams I will need about 1500 for the valvetrain and cam setup so its adding up, plus with my unmodified r302 block I should have a stronger bottom end than I would with a unmodified teskid block, if I already had a modular in my car I would be more than happy to build a mod motor but for me right now pushrod is what I am sticking with.

 

There is no replacment for dis ...... well maybe except for a big ass turbo

 

.....and you can run a bigger turbo with more displacement.