I went to my local junkyard (with who I am very friendly) and inquired about their core pile of trans. He siad he would sell me a early 518 (3 pin) fro 100.00, but told me there is a guy that collects his cores and sells them to trans rebuilders. I got the guys number and he GAVE me 4 518s (in pieces). You may be able to get the same deal if you can bullsh*t a little and talk to the right people...be sure to get the three pin RH, not the 12 pin RE. Big difference! And by the way, the Coronet is very quiet, almost to quiet.

 

Pin?
What exactly are you referencing and how do you tell the difference?

 

Sorry! I am talking about the electrical connector on the drivers side of the trans case. The "older" 518 was hydraulically operated (RH), so they only had a three pin connector, one 12 volt pin for the solenoid that operated the overdrive and one 12 volt pin for the lock-up converter. The center pin is the common ground for both the solenoids (both solenoids are on the valve body). The three pin allows for the conversion from a 904/727 to a 518 because it only takes a simple toggle switch or a vacuum solenoid to operate the OD and the lock-up. The later model 518 (93 or 94 up) were electronically operated (RE) and had a multiple pin connector for the computer to control trans operation, which is damn near impossible to make work correctly unless you run the MaMopar computer.

 

Thanks.

 

Doesn't Headman make a shorty header for SB A bodies? Couldn't you just run a short section of exhaust pipe from the outlet of the shorty down and forward to a turbo? I have seen some pictures of chevy guys do this, not sure if there would be adequate room in a mopar.

Anyone running these shorty headers?

 

i have shorty headers on my 440 charger and was considering flipping them and running pipes to the turbo's
they look like they will clear the hood without modification but i dont know how they would hold up to the weight and heat of the turbo's
viper

 

The header pipe setups that I have seen that did not break all had a fabricated bracket to support the weight of the turbo. Be aware that if you do make a support, it needs to have provisions for heat expansion, with something like slide/slots to allow movement.

 

just so your not wondering anymore, i have the headman bb shorty headers flipped upside down. you have to cut them and lay them outwards and rebuild the end tubes on both headers--just so you can get a valve cover on. had i known that you could make a log style deal, i would have done that. i thought headers or cast iron manifolds was the only way that this stuff could be built. i wish i had started this project late this summer when i had much more info rather than febuary when i didnt really know jack. here is some pics.

this is a pic of the headers in the car with all four tubes cut and the headers laid outwards to clear the valve covers.

#ad


in this pic you can see i cut and added some tubing to reangle the collector

#ad


the nightmare..............

#ad

 

wanna do mine next?

 

no thanks, im already dreading doing it again. i want to run 9's flat out/max boost, but i will most likely need a bigger turbo. plus the next time, it is definately getting a log style setup.

--chad

 

Or you could get really crude and just do a "box" style that looks like ducting. I'm sure my "box" style doesn't flow as well as a nice tuned header type would - but it still works.



Crude But Effective.......

 

were can I see a better look of these #ad

and info on how they were made? Are they simply 4 pipes angled into another pipe? Also can you install big block manifolds on backwards??

 

hey duner you still got your turbo dak? sad how bernd went under after he tried so hard eh you still talk to him?

no manifolds cant simply be put on any other way than stock with some mods